Readiness code hell
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From: Boston
Readiness code hell
Had my car at a local body shop to do some minor touchup work on a fender scrape, take care of the little rust bubble on the windshield cowl, respray the hood for the rock chips, etc. It was winter, so I told 'em, whenever you can get to it, get to it ... and they had the car for three months.
Of course, the battery went dead, took a charge just fine, but now the readiness codes refuse to set and the inspection sticker is waaaay past due.
I've had the codes set easily twice in the past, once after I bought the car and the SAI codes were there, reset it, drove it to work and back, all were ready the next morning, and passed emissions, 5 minutes before the CEL came back on. Second time, battery was disconnected for the top end rebuild, but they reset after one day.
Since I got it back, I drove it for maybe 400 miles, 3 ready, 5 incomplete. Said what the hell, reset it again with the OBD2 reader, another 500 miles, 3 ready, 5 incomplete. Tried the BMW procedure twice ... cold start, idle for a few minutes, 20-30 mph between 2000-3000 rpm, got on the highway, drove 20 minutes at 55 without going over 3000 rpm, idled for five minutes, no dice. Drove it a lot the last three days, 3 ready, 5 incomplete.
Any ideas? Something to do with the battery running down first?
Of course, the battery went dead, took a charge just fine, but now the readiness codes refuse to set and the inspection sticker is waaaay past due.
I've had the codes set easily twice in the past, once after I bought the car and the SAI codes were there, reset it, drove it to work and back, all were ready the next morning, and passed emissions, 5 minutes before the CEL came back on. Second time, battery was disconnected for the top end rebuild, but they reset after one day.
Since I got it back, I drove it for maybe 400 miles, 3 ready, 5 incomplete. Said what the hell, reset it again with the OBD2 reader, another 500 miles, 3 ready, 5 incomplete. Tried the BMW procedure twice ... cold start, idle for a few minutes, 20-30 mph between 2000-3000 rpm, got on the highway, drove 20 minutes at 55 without going over 3000 rpm, idled for five minutes, no dice. Drove it a lot the last three days, 3 ready, 5 incomplete.
Any ideas? Something to do with the battery running down first?
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From: Boston, MA
Vic, teh easy solution is to go and get an R sticker. That's good for 30 days, you can drive with it. Within 30 days go back once the codes are ready and re-inspect. The re-inspection is free.
As far as code, I remember reading that you have to hit certain RPM to re-set them quickly, plus certain number of starts, maybe. Didn't pay much attention as mine are an OBD1 cars.
As far as code, I remember reading that you have to hit certain RPM to re-set them quickly, plus certain number of starts, maybe. Didn't pay much attention as mine are an OBD1 cars.
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From: Bethlehem, GA
Here's the readiness code reset drive cycle that never failed to work for me. It is a bit of a PITA and is the reason I went back to a pre-OBDII Porsche after unexpectedly selling my 993 last year.
Note: The Check Engine Light (CEL) must be cleared first and there must be a functioning CEL light bulb in place.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (Tiptronic trans.)
Note: The Check Engine Light (CEL) must be cleared first and there must be a functioning CEL light bulb in place.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (Tiptronic trans.)
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Currently, I don't have this problem and in fact have been issued a "pass inspection exempt' based on the fact that I did not drive 5k since last inspection. But I'm asking what might be a stoopid question: could one perform the cycle without actually moving the car? Does the drive train have to be engaged to do this? For folks like me in congested city environs, if the cycle could be replicated without actually moving the car, that would be a god send. Anyone?
Race Car
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Wilmington NC
Take it to your nearest track and run it around at full throttle for a weekend. Has yet to fail me 
Going next w/e to do just that (oh and instruct 
)
and here's a tip.....
Don't let it idle within at least the first 2 minutes after a cold start. Start the car and go, drive hard and they'll reset.
Going next w/e to do just that (oh and instruct )and here's a tip.....
Don't let it idle within at least the first 2 minutes after a cold start. Start the car and go, drive hard and they'll reset.
Race Car
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,681
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From: Johns Creek, GA
The key to the whole cycle is that the engine speed must not go over 3K rpms. It took me 3-4 times to go through the cycle until I paid attention to not exceed the rpms.
Lastly, for the readiness codes to set, you must run the cycle twice. An ODBII scanner that shows the readiness codes status is your friend.
I've been through the same hell, so I feel your pain Vic. Good luck.
Lastly, for the readiness codes to set, you must run the cycle twice. An ODBII scanner that shows the readiness codes status is your friend.
I've been through the same hell, so I feel your pain Vic. Good luck.
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From: Boston
Well, as it turns out, apparently all you have to do to get them to set is bitch about them on Rennlist the night before, because I started it this morning and checked, 5 incomplete, 3 ready, drove 5 minutes to the Starbucks, paying no attention to RPMs, speed, idling or anything else, checked it there again, and all 8 were complete. Got my sticker!
Thanks, ya'll.
Thanks, ya'll.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: San Diego, CA
Glad to hear. I'm happy I have an OBD I '95 for this reason.
Thread makes me think of the drive cycle for my Land Rover Discovery.....It's frickin' insane! 50 mph for 15 minutes, cold starts, idle with rear defrost on, accelerate quickly to 35,....it goes on and on and on. I know your frustration.
Thread makes me think of the drive cycle for my Land Rover Discovery.....It's frickin' insane! 50 mph for 15 minutes, cold starts, idle with rear defrost on, accelerate quickly to 35,....it goes on and on and on. I know your frustration.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 8,335
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From: Vista CA
Take it to your nearest track and run it around at full throttle for a weekend. Has yet to fail me Going next w/e to do just that (oh and instruct )
and here's a tip.....
Don't let it idle within at least the first 2 minutes after a cold start. Start the car and go, drive hard and they'll reset.
Going next w/e to do just that (oh and instruct )and here's a tip.....
Don't let it idle within at least the first 2 minutes after a cold start. Start the car and go, drive hard and they'll reset.
talk about conflicting information.
ain't the internet wonderful?
cheers
Craig
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: NE Florida
I've used the BMW Drive Cycle procedure w/ 3 993's, never had a problem. Even did this one before I did the (much needed) 30k mi. service on it, while it took a little longer on the final idle they did set. I'll probably try it again in a few weeks just to see if they set quicker now.
