Paint question
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From: Princeton
Paint question
I recently had a partial cosmetic re-spray, which worked out well apart from a few spots that I was not happy with. Car is going back next week to have these issues rectified, so I just wanted the opinion of Rennlisters first:
At the joint between the front wing and the base of the A-pillar, paint is peeling already. Body shop says that it cannot get a better result without removing the gasket, and as the gasket has holes in it where the bolts go through, one basically has to loosen the wing, remove the gasket, paint, then re-weld the wing.
Does anyone have experience with this? I think this is partial BS as they have managed to paint the other side very nicely right up to the gasket, and it has not peeled at all (yet).
Thank you,
Reuben
At the joint between the front wing and the base of the A-pillar, paint is peeling already. Body shop says that it cannot get a better result without removing the gasket, and as the gasket has holes in it where the bolts go through, one basically has to loosen the wing, remove the gasket, paint, then re-weld the wing.
Does anyone have experience with this? I think this is partial BS as they have managed to paint the other side very nicely right up to the gasket, and it has not peeled at all (yet).
Thank you,
Reuben
Last edited by Reuben; Apr 9, 2013 at 11:51 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
Is that the gasket between the front fender and the body? First of all, I'd definitely have that checked out for rust. The gasket is pretty simple to remove and replace. There are some bolts that attach the fender to the body. Those need to be loosened and the gasket slides right out. If they are old - replace them while you have them out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,024
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From: Mid-Atlantic
Peeling is due to poor surface prep and the masking edge created by the fender bead not being removed. I've been told it is a PITA to loosen the fender and remove that beading however others have said it is not that difficult. I am sure it saves an hour or two of labor to leave it in place. Seems to me the only way to correct it is to remove the beading, sand it smooth and repaint. Perhaps a minor color blend can be accomplished with a small paint gun/air brush, then clearing, rather than repainting the entire fender.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Kansas City
I have had paint shops work up to beads without an issue. Your shop needs to repair this spot correctly. I thought the purpose originally was to make your car better. You don't want to look at this every time you get into your car a be reminded of a substandard job.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 552
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From: Greater Seattle (via NH)
Agree with SKM - poor surface prep. They owe you a re-spray just on that area. They should be able to propertly blend it with the rest of the new paint.
I would not worry about the re-paint of the re-paint. When you ultimately sell your car, I would not try to hide that it has been re-done. Depending on the reason, it should not (if properly re-done) detract too much from your car's value.
I would not worry about the re-paint of the re-paint. When you ultimately sell your car, I would not try to hide that it has been re-done. Depending on the reason, it should not (if properly re-done) detract too much from your car's value.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2009
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I had the same issue...
shortly after I bought my car. That area had just been repainted by the po's body shop, and they were too lazy to remove the gaskets to do the job properly. I then had a competent body shop remove those gaskets and discard them, repaint the car, and put in new gaskets. That is the proper way to do it, and it looks perfect, just as it should if done correctly...and no welding was necessary to my knowledge.
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Race Car
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Johns Creek, GA
My car had a total respray. The fender bolts have to be loosened, and the gasket comes right off without the need of removing the fender. Replace with brand new gaskets. They are cheap and the old ones are probably hard and brittle by now.
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From: In front of you and to the left ...
Seared
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From: Ellicott City, MD
Nordschleife Master
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Well, I stand corrected then. I thought these were the same as previous 911's with a bolt on front fender .. At any rate, I still believe you can remove and replace that welting strip without removing the fender to properly paint in that area.