pcarhombre

Quick question. I'm doing some cleaning and painting and noticed that the "P" on driver's side of the calipers is down and the ones on the passenger's side is up. Is this normal (whatever that means)?

FisterD

The bottom of "PORSCHE" should be towards the hub.So yours are correct.

pcarhombre

Gracias amigo! Car's on stands; exhaust next

tjangi

Yo B, Need Pics. G

tjangi

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=23616

pcarhombre

I managed to get the car in the air after alot of trouble. The same jack I used on the front would not get the rear high enough to get the stands under. I ended up using a suspension point that my guy said would work. I took the two wheels off and started there (since the insides are horrible). Of course when you open the door, trouble sometimes comes in (see pic #1). It will be evaluated by my guy tomorrow. I managed to take a crappy pic of wheel well, and a good one of the filthy wheel. Tomorrow, I'll get better shots of the well and the calipers and the cleaned up wheel insides.
HID's are up and running, leather touch-up kit on the way. I also got everything I need to touch up wheel rash. I'm so ready to finish this cleaning and painting etc so I can finally get my Stage 2' on and just drive the damned thing! Stay tuned!
BTW:

pcarhombre

BTW: Anyone know how to tell which T twists these are?

ilko

These are solid spokes. The two grooves on the back of each spoke tell you that (apart from the part numbers). The hollow spokes have no grooves on the back of each spoke and are smooth instead.

Like this:

boulderbobo

part numbers?

pcarhombre

Thanks ilko! Are the hollows that much lighter?

ilko

Roughly 2.5lbs per wheel, or 10lbs of unsprung weight savings for all four. It's hardly noticeable by most people in a street car unless you have a very intelligent butt dyno

boulderbobo

I had both. Solid and hollow. I wouldn't say I have an overly sensitive or calibrated butt dyno, but the difference is significant.

Have you ever ridden a bicycle with tube protectors (Mr. Tuffys) and then taken the protectors out? Or vice versa. The affect of the additional rotating mass is really quite noticeable in how the bicycle turns, and yet the added weight is only a few onces. When in a turn, the bicycle wheel (w/ tire protectors) doesn't really want to change direction. Granted the extra weight is in the worst possible location (outside rim of the wheel). Nonetheless, the same principle applies to a car wheel. Don't be fooled, rotating weight matters.

Here is what Wiki says about rotating mass on a bicycle wheel- "Due to the fact that wheels rotate as well as translate (move in a straight line) when a bicycle moves, more force is required to accelerate a unit of mass on the wheel than on the frame. To accelerate a wheel, total wheel mass matters less than the moment of inertia, which describes the inertial effect of the mass resisting acceleration (inertia) based on its location with respect to the axis of rotation (the center of the wheel hub/axle). In wheel design, reducing the rotational inertia has the benefit of more responsive, faster-accelerating wheels. To accomplish this, wheel designs are employing lighter rim materials, moving the spoke nipples to the hub or using lighter nipples such as aluminum. Note however that rotational inertia is only a factor during acceleration (and deceleration/braking). At constant speed, aerodynamics are a significant factor. For climbing, total mass remains important."


Just my $.02.



Bob-

ilko

Yes, that is all true. But when you consider the weight of the bicycle and the car, along with the power that your legs develop versus the car's engine, it's really hard to compare it.

On a heavy car, with a relatively powerful engine 10lbs of rotating mass isn't very noticeable.