gjones1735

Hi Again,

It's been about 7 months now and the clutch is still working perfectly. I was doing an oil change yesterday and decided to bleed some fluid out of the clutch slave cylinder just to see what condition it was in. No bubbles and fluid is still nice and clear. ( I'm using ATE Super Gold ) The new parts appear to be holding up well.

George

k722070

thought I'd bump this thread for anyone looking for a winter project.
I replaced the clutch slave and ended up with a much better pedal, very smooth on release, but there was still some roughness at the bottom of the throw.
the mc boot was torn so I figured it was in poor shape and since the car was a '96 I ordered the '97 kinematic lever along with the new master cylinder.
dealing with the pedal cluster is up there with new plug wires for hassle, you certainly want to pull the 225lb stock seat out just to be comfortable in the tight space.
but in the end this a massive change and well worth the trouble. right now my clutch pedal is easy and smooth, better than I ever remember it being in 13 years of ownership.
and for a car going on it's 16th year its probably not too much to ask for new clutch hydraulics.

Ed Hughes

This is a great thread. It's on my to-do list for later this year.

TravisB

Having recently done all of this earlier this year, I can wholeheartedly recommend it! My clutch didn't feel too bad before but now it's every bit as smooth as a brand new car. A great way to spend a few bills if you ask me, it's something you'll appreciate every single time you're in the car..

cosmic_993

Hmm Id like to do this on mine too. but the problem I have is the clutch engages to late, to high up on the pedal travel. I am 6ft 2" and like to sit close so my knee is bent alot and its hard to let it out smooth. pushing the pedal down is not bad, but coming up it seems notchy. thnaks.

k722070

your issue is probably just the slave cylinder, at least the notchy feeling at the end of travel is the same as I had and was solved with a new slave cylinder.
if you have access to a lift changing the slave cylinder is pretty easy since a lift allows you to get both hands above the tranny to do the work.
or being in norcal, I'm sure fd motorsports will do the work.

changing the kinematic to the 97 version and a new master cylinder changed my clutch pedal to smooth and light.

Cupcar

The 993 bushings are not nylon as in earlier cars and there is no aftermarket brass replacement I know of. The original 993 bushings are Teflon coated steel and available for replacement. They are shown in the picture below as short silver cylinders and are pressed into the assembly.

A critical note in the picture below: Note there are two silver 50 cent size washers shown on the bench in front of the brake pedal on right. These washers are NOT shown in the PET pedal diagram, but are shown in the pedal parts list with a dash instead of a number next to them.

They are part numbers 900.234.524.00 0.2 mm shim and 900.234.525.00 0.3 mm shim. They go between the pedal frame and the end of the brake pedal tubular pivot. My pedals had no shims and took 0.5 mm total shim to eliminate slop. I bought two of each shim and played with them until I got the lateral slop out of the brake pedal assembly. Worth doing I think.

Cupcar

Has anyone eliminated the over center spring assembly completely?

eddiearam

I own a 95 Porsche 993, after following this post I replaced the slave cylinder, hose, flush the system with the super blue fluid, bleeding, and adjust the clutch spring pedal bolt sticking out about 7mm.
the pedal felt soft for few days, and now it is back to be hard and annoying and when go in reverse it feels notchy.
what next, how do i correct the problem ???

IXLR8

I guess you got to them first. I'm still waiting for delivery of those shims from Germany.

I have my pedal assembly apart as well with new bushings on their way. At about 46K miles, they're not worn, but since I am in there, why not.

scottys624

New to Rennlist and hoping someone can help me with this:

My 993 clutch pedal has been slowly losing resistance, so I tried vacuum bleeding the slave cylinder with a hand pump. I didn't execute very well and am afraid I've injected quite a bit of air into the system. Now my clutch pedal either stays at the floor or stays in the normal position. If I just pump a lot of brake/clutch fluid into the reservoir using a pressure pump and out through the slave cylinder will this clear out my system? I'm not sure the bleed will fix my original problem as I suspect I could have a failed master cylinder.

scottys624

ps:

it's a '96 C2

stace

The brake and clutch systems share a common set of hydraulics. Use a motive power bleeder and bleed all 4 brake calipers and the clutch slave. If done thoroughly you should then not have any air in the system. If the master cylinder is defective that would need to be replaced first of course.

IXLR8

You mean a common hydraulic fluid reservoir, but no more.

estroodle

Replaced 993 clutch master, slave, hose and kinematic lever this weekend thanks to this eight year old thread and the included links. Truly a PITA. Full day job for my slightly more than novice hands. Will drive this week to see if I get the post bleed notchiness and then re-bleed next weekend. A couple of notes to add to this already stellar write-up. Things you will need to complete this job without teaching your kids your full extended vocabulary:

1. Time
2. Patience
3. Time
4. Patience
5. This job aide for getting slave cylinder back on in time measured by the minute rather than epoch.
​
Also, a bench vise comes in really handy for kinematic replacement. I couldn't imagine doing the job without one. And don't forget to lube everything on the pedal assembly before you re-install; the pedals are smooth as butter after a good cleanup and lube!