Shifting problem - hard to get out of gear
#1
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Shifting problem - hard to get out of gear
Anyone have this problem, that's happening more and more frequently for me:
Manual transmission. After braking, it's hard to get out of gear. Doesn't really matter which gear, and it doesn't have to be hard braking. But if I put the clutch in, wait a few seconds and then take it out of gear, then it's just fine.
No problems getting it in and out of gear when accelerating.
And the car has new RS motor mounts, which are excellent.
Any help is appreciated...................................................
Manual transmission. After braking, it's hard to get out of gear. Doesn't really matter which gear, and it doesn't have to be hard braking. But if I put the clutch in, wait a few seconds and then take it out of gear, then it's just fine.
No problems getting it in and out of gear when accelerating.
And the car has new RS motor mounts, which are excellent.
Any help is appreciated...................................................
#2
Drifting
Anyone have this problem, that's happening more and more frequently for me:
Manual transmission. After braking, it's hard to get out of gear. Doesn't really matter which gear, and it doesn't have to be hard braking. But if I put the clutch in, wait a few seconds and then take it out of gear, then it's just fine.
No problems getting it in and out of gear when accelerating.
And the car has new RS motor mounts, which are excellent.
Any help is appreciated...................................................
Manual transmission. After braking, it's hard to get out of gear. Doesn't really matter which gear, and it doesn't have to be hard braking. But if I put the clutch in, wait a few seconds and then take it out of gear, then it's just fine.
No problems getting it in and out of gear when accelerating.
And the car has new RS motor mounts, which are excellent.
Any help is appreciated...................................................
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Thanks Matt. But if the master/slave cylinders are working properly, how can the input shaft splines be the problem? It seems like the pressure plate would disengage, but it would just take more force to press the clutch pedal.
Maybe I should try bleeding the slave cylinder.
Maybe I should try bleeding the slave cylinder.
#4
Drifting
I bled the slave and then changed it out. Neither helped much. You might as well try it because it is easy and cheap to do. I had a hard time believing that gunk on the splines could hinder the disengagement of the disc but...
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Well it's not that easy....lol. What a pain. But compared to changing the clutch it's easy I guess.
But for the gunk theory to be correct, either the fluid needs to be compressing or the fork needs to be bending. Something's got to give!
Plus I'd expect a delay in engagement as well as disengagement.
But for the gunk theory to be correct, either the fluid needs to be compressing or the fork needs to be bending. Something's got to give!
Plus I'd expect a delay in engagement as well as disengagement.
#6
Drifting
Well it's not that easy....lol. What a pain. But compared to changing the clutch it's easy I guess.
But for the gunk theory to be correct, either the fluid needs to be compressing or the fork needs to be bending. Something's got to give!
Plus I'd expect a delay in engagement as well as disengagement.
But for the gunk theory to be correct, either the fluid needs to be compressing or the fork needs to be bending. Something's got to give!
Plus I'd expect a delay in engagement as well as disengagement.
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The fluid is not compressing (basic physics), unless it has air in it. Old dried grease or corrosion on the input shaft splines can make the clutch action "lazy". BTDT.
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Ok, I see it. The force of the fork is acting through the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. The spring would flex more than it should until its force overcomes the friction provided by the gunk on the shaft.
That sucks. Is there any way to lubricate this thing without taking the clutch apart?
That sucks. Is there any way to lubricate this thing without taking the clutch apart?
#9
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Isn't this the infamous 'hanging clutch' problem? It could be as simple as cleaning and lubricating the pedal assembly and there's a TSB that replaces the kinematic lever with a better design on '95's as well... I believe it's on pcar.com's list ....
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No, it's not the hanging pedal problem. That only affects the pedal return and not the clutch disengagement.
But I was also thinking, the gunk on the shaft theory doesn't explain why I only see it after braking. I've never seen it during acceleration.
Matt, did you see it only under braking?
But I was also thinking, the gunk on the shaft theory doesn't explain why I only see it after braking. I've never seen it during acceleration.
Matt, did you see it only under braking?
#13
Drifting
No, it's not the hanging pedal problem. That only affects the pedal return and not the clutch disengagement.
But I was also thinking, the gunk on the shaft theory doesn't explain why I only see it after braking. I've never seen it during acceleration.
Matt, did you see it only under braking?
But I was also thinking, the gunk on the shaft theory doesn't explain why I only see it after braking. I've never seen it during acceleration.
Matt, did you see it only under braking?
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This is common and is more than likely a rusty or sticky input shaft spline. The issue isnt the fact that the PP is released, its that the disc must slide a small amount on the input shaft splines to release. If it resists to do so, the disk still hangs at the flywheel friction surface providing just enough drag to keep the syncro ring locked or preloaded.
Does your car want to lurch forward a small amount if you go to start it in gear, clutch pedal on the floor?
Does your car want to lurch forward a small amount if you go to start it in gear, clutch pedal on the floor?