Anyone have a list of things to check for battery drain?

I pulled each fuse last night hoping to find a small current across the circuit with an ampmeter - no luck, except for the clock and stereo booster - very small current.

my (new) battery runs down in about 10 days... doh!

Thanks

 

How old is your battery? How do you have the meter connnected...did you just put in-line with the + battery cable? When you pull the fuse for the clock and stereo booster...does the current go to 0.00?

 

Lift up the hood/trunk - the hood/trunk light should go on.
Now - with the hood/trunk still 'up' -- press the latching mechanism down to simulate you closing it.
There's should be a slight pause (around 10 seconds) for the front/trunk light before it turns itself off.
If it doesn't ...there's your culprit.

Gerry

 

Found some good trouble shooting here...

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/0...994_620294.pdf

Checking drain and all relays/switches tonight.

 

With the car off and everything very quite... listen for the little fan in the CCU.. its a common problem fo r the ccu to fail and leave this on.. kills the battery in about 10days.... ask me how I know...

 

g_murray is correct about the front latch. If the microswitch arm isn't actuated, the circuit will continue to draw current. EZ to adjust. It's so the alarm system won't arm until it senses the switch is closed. Could be a potential cure for many IMMOBILIZER issues, too.

 

I was also a victim of battery drain. After a great deal of troubleshooting, I had to replace the ignition switch. The original ignition switch wasn't turning off the power to the accessories and draining the battery in 24 hours.

 

With everything off and the immobilizer not activated, the current draw was measured at 22 mA. With the immobilizer, an estimated less then 50 mA. You might be draining 1 Ah per day.

Another discussion here.

 

Hi, there are two TSB's in 993 section, best to check both, and one in the 964 section that could apply as well, here is the link, regards

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/5...992_620492.pdf

 

Checked the drain last night...

(BTW dont start with a 200mA fused ampmeter when you have a 300+mA drain, or you will be delayed by a trip for a new fuse or meter.)

Also - the stereo booster apparantly is a some sort of capacitor - it starts the charge at about an amp them drops off. Pull this fuse first.

Found the culprit - an aftermarket GPS antitheft? tracker "teletrack" 5A fuse that was drawing about 300 mA.

Now for the fun part......

Does the trunk (front) light always come on with the interior light? Mine does - even with the trunk latch switch disabled!

Apparently there is some glitch with the lights... the drivers door switch does not work - open the passenger door & both lights come on - cycle the ignition and they go out. Sometimes they go off after the 20 sec delay, sometimes they dont.

But if you have the interion light in the off position and the drivers door is opened... the trunk light is on and you dont know it... doh!

more to come...

 

Started up strongly after sitting for about 10 days! I'm absolutely giddy!!