guardsredcab

OK, I'm trying to learn to do more than check a dipstick. Changed brake pads and now I'm trying to replace the brake fluid. I have a 95 model, which the repair manual says has an overflow line that must be clamped before using my handy dandy new Motive power bleeder. The problem is there is no indication in the manual where this line is and how to clamp it. There is a braided line coming out of the top of the reservoir (see drawing below) that shrinks to what appears to be a smaller plastic line. It seems like completely clamping off that line will be very difficult as both sections are pretty sturdy. If that is the line to be clamped, what kind of clamp to you use to close it off without damaging it? If that's not the overflow line, where can I find it?.

Sorry for another stupid question. With your help, I actually am learning... was able to remove and reinstall (after Bilstein rebuilt it) one of my PSS9 shocks. My mechanic brother-in-law in Texas was amazed! Thanks, Greg

jimq

I clamp vice grips on the rubber line and it works fine using my motiv.

NC TRACKRAT

Have you actually looked at the reservoir to see if you have the vent line? My '95 doesn't have one.

stace

neither does mine. obviously it was a mid model year change - I have a May 95 build date.

g_murray

The Motiv Bleeder is fab.

Here's some pix I took when I did a complete 'fluid flush' on my 993 -- which might help you with your DIY.

Gerry

http://ifly.freeyellow.com/miscell/993-brakes/

jhummel68

That vent line exits the car at the front jack point just behind the front left tire. I didn't like clamping older tubes so I put a plug at the end of the hard plastic line at the jack point. It worked just fine and I didn't run the chance of damaging any of the rubber line. Just remember to remove it when you are finished.
Good luck with the bleeding.
John

JPS

I felt along and the plastic insert in the rubber tube seemed to end at some point. I didn't want to clamp the plastic, but clamped just past it. Worked fine. You can tell if you are clamping well or if you are still on the plastic part.

IXLR8

I have a set of clamps similar to these...


Those are available at Harbor Freight.

Yes, you can use other methods, but I like using the proper tools.

IXLR8

Thanks for going through the trouble and taking the time to do so.

Some captions with each pic would be useful though as I had no idea what I was looking at on a few of them. What was that flat metal strip that looked like a dipstick?

I know you have to remove the bleeder hose and that it is a hassle, but I always use a box end wrench when working with brake bleeder screws.

Q: does the hydraulic clutch feed off the same reservoir?

g_murray

Hi,
Yep, that was my first DIY - I had the car about two weeks - and hadn't (yet) gotten a decent set of spanners -- so used one from my Raleigh racing bike.
When you're doing the bleed - trust me - the pix will make sense.
Re: that dipstick pic -- I was showing the 'white grungy curdled-milk-like' stuff that came out of the brake lines. Seemingly this stuff is synonymous with brakes that haven't been bled in a (very) long time and are the major culprit (along with air, of course) of 'spongy brakes'.
Just remember to NOT be 'wimpy' or 'cheap' with the amount of fluid that you put into the tank prior to pressurizing it. Fluid is cheap and you do NOT want that resevoir to go 'dry' at any point!
Also, do NOT press down on the brake pedal "all the way". The max distance you should press on the brake is 1/4 to 1/2 -- THAT'S IT! TRUST ME!!!
As a matter of fact, I used a rubber hammer on the brake pedal to impart 'sudden force' to the fluid - which makes the air bubbles 'travel'. They don't travel well if you merely 'press' on the pedal - the fluid just seems to 'pass over them'.
After you've bled/flushed your brakes - and have all the nipples tightened / buttoned up - and your lug-nuts re-torqued (94 ft. lbs.) - and your clamp removed! etc. -- start her up and take her out for a short (slow speed drive) just to make sure everything is OK. Then come back and re-check all the parts you loosened up - to check for leaks etc.
After that - drive as normal - and 'enjoy' the wonderful 'decisive' stopping power!
Gerry

race911

Yep. And a friend is the owner of Motiv, so if anyone needs some help, repair part, or anything don't hesitate to contact and he'll get you fixed up quickly.

IXLR8

Thanks for all that info, Gerry.

By 1/4 to 1/2, do you mean inches or 1/4 to 1/2 of the full travel of the brake pedal?

I've done countless brake fluid changes on my cars and motorcycles, but always manually. I do them annually to once every few years. As you may know, brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it attracts/absorbs moisture from the air.

I just ordered a Motive Products 0109 Black Label bleeder and will pick it up next weekend.

What about the ABS? Does the flush circulate the fresh brake fluid through it?

IXLR8

Amsoil Brake Fluids Video

Falcondrivr

I put needle nose vice grips on the braided line and it works fine (July 95 build.)

A: Yes, the clutch works off of the same resevoir. Just go ahead and do it while the motive is hooked up...

IXLR8

Thanks! What I thought but wasn't sure as I couldn't find another reservoir for the clutch fluid.

When using the Motive Power bleeder, if all bleeder screws are closed, is there any reason why one cannot unscrew the top of the pump and add more brake fluid as needed?

How do you drain what is in the hose going to the reservoir cap when you are done? Do you just open up a bleeder to drain off what is left, stopping when the reservoir level is at the "max" line? Sound logical to me.

Anyway, I am sure the unit comes with thorough instructions.