Peqoud

97 993 C2.
I just had the clutch master cylinder replaced by the shop. Now I am having the following problems with the clutch:

-occasionally the car will jump forward on startup
-hard to get out of gear sometimes when parked, engine off
-at an uphill stoplight, almost impossible to get going in first - clutch feels like it's slipping
-sometime when stopping at a light with the clutch in (disengaged), the engine rpm's will drop to almost zero, then bump back up to normal idle
-some clicking, binding in clutch pedal when depressed and released (in neutral)

I have read many posts but I feel I have symptoms which point to different problems. My guesses are 1. no more lube on the input shaft (dropping rpm at stoplight) 2. air in the system, failing slave cylinder?

The clutch does not slip on testing uphill around 2k rpm then hitting throttle (speed and rpm increase are linear). This is the 2nd clutch, replaced at 35k due to previous owner's driving I suspect. Car has 70k miles now. Thanks for your help!
NGH

Jeff Ward

What symptoms lead you to have the master cylinder replaced? That information might help the crew here diagnose what is going on now.

Peqoud

We were trying to diagnose the problems mentioned above and the master cylinder was found to be leaking fluid. Then the jumping at startup and the hard start from an incline began to happen.

matt777

-occasionally the car will jump forward on startup

Clutch must be dragging when depressed

-hard to get out of gear sometimes when parked, engine off

doesn't sound like a clutch problem at all

-at an uphill stoplight, almost impossible to get going in first - clutch feels like it's slipping

perhaps not engaging smoothly??? If its' slipping perhaps the pp isn't releasing for some reason

-sometime when stopping at a light with the clutch in (disengaged), the engine rpm's will drop to almost zero, then bump back up to normal idle

If its clutch related the clutch is starting to engage perhaps; hydraulics bypassing?

-some clicking, binding in clutch pedal when depressed and released (in neutral)

not sure- perhaps mechanical

With these symptoms it seems all over the map. Did they test drive, diagnose, repair and test drive it? What do they say? I would do the master and slave first if they are old as these are relatively inexpensive. Perhaps you got a bad master. How many miles on the clutch? Why was the master replaced? Did it change anything? So many questions and so few answers.

matt777

I'm also curious what the typical symptoms are of worn clutch fork bearings.

TMc993

All five symptoms are symptoms of the clutch plate not moving in and out freely as the clutch pedal is activated...Often an indicator of insufficient lubrication on the input shaft.

Symptoms 1, 2, 4 and 5 are symptoms of the clutch failing to disengage when the clutch pedal is depressed, indicating air in the hydraulics or a failing slave cylinder.

matt777

I just had the sticky input shaft problem. The only symptom I had was slow disengagement causing it to be hard to pull it out of gear.

Peqoud

OK Thanks for the replies. I've thought the same and have been living in denial. I can handle replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding myself. Matt777, how did you resolve your issue? Did you DIY or shop it out? Cost? And if you replaced the clutch, did you take care of any "while you're in there" items?

Thanks

matt777

I replaced the clutch myself without dropping the engine. The clutch was 50% at 68000 miles. worn max but I had ordered it before I took things apart and wasn't really sure of the problem. Typically the RMS and the slave are replaced too. They are cheap. There is a good clutch DIY thread here somewhere where they list the parts required which also includes the throw out bearing, bolts and clutch fork bearings. You will need some triple square bits as well. I didn't change the flywheel but most people do. Many go to the LWF.

chris walrod

more often than not the only fix for this is to drop the lump and clean the input shaft splines. While there, its time to replace the clutch and t/o bearing.

For clutch jobs, I've always replaced the fork bushings and bearings, but over time have not seen wear on the fork bushings. The bearings I still replace despite them looking ok.

rsr91128

Chris,

When you say bushings do you mean an aftermarket kit?
I plan to do my clutch sometime and thought the kits looked like an improvement.

Something like this or similar:

http://www.automotion.com/product.as...ept%5Fid=5084#

Thanks

chris walrod

Just the factory plastic bushings -- they are indeed really cheap, 2 required but I havent seen them wear where replacement was required.