Rolled Fenders
12-29-2009 | 05:32 PM
#16
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I realize the conventional wisdom is to use a rod of some sort to "roll" the fender lips in. But I have watched two pros do it and the both used a plastic faced dead blow hammer. I’ve done it both ways, I’ve helped several friends roll theirs with a baseball bat, but when it came time to do mine I grabbed the hammer.... Hammer is much easier, faster, and is more precise than a rod, it just takes a little more courage to start beating on your prized car. The trick is to work the lip up slowly using gentle blows, took me 15 minutes per fender to get them right.
As far a paint cracking, heat will help but there is no guarantee, the sharper the edge you create the more likely cracking will occur. On my rears I wanted them rolled tight, so the edge is a actually a 180deg fold, there is no way paint will survive such a sharp bend.
As far a paint cracking, heat will help but there is no guarantee, the sharper the edge you create the more likely cracking will occur. On my rears I wanted them rolled tight, so the edge is a actually a 180deg fold, there is no way paint will survive such a sharp bend.
12-29-2009 | 06:50 PM
#17
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From: Montreal, QC
Bill, and faithful Rennlist brethren, I simply can't take it anymore.
If I burn ONE more brain cell worrying about offsets I can't possibly test...
I just confirmed the order per the specs above. And yes, we're going GOLD!!!
Will post pics when they arrive...
Best,
Matt
PS - these are the magnesium versions, but you get the idea...
If I burn ONE more brain cell worrying about offsets I can't possibly test...
I just confirmed the order per the specs above. And yes, we're going GOLD!!!
Will post pics when they arrive...
Best,
Matt
PS - these are the magnesium versions, but you get the idea...
12-29-2009 | 10:02 PM
#19
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Matt, congrats on the order - That's just pure wheel sex indeed.
Bill,
I've seen many discussions here on RL about different wheel centers but never seen any actual offset numbers. It would be great if you could share the data you have on these different centers.
I've seen many discussions here on RL about different wheel centers but never seen any actual offset numbers. It would be great if you could share the data you have on these different centers.
.
12-30-2009 | 01:29 AM
#21
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From: somewhere on a twisty road...
01-03-2010 | 06:01 AM
#22
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From: Miami Beach, FL
02-18-2022 | 03:23 PM
#23
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993 fender lips are very strong and very hard to bend, despite others notions to the contrary the inner plastic liners are supported by the lips amd you will need to be careful to provide some support for them, otherwise i'd say just cut them off as is done w/ 911 lips.
What width and o/s did you end up ordering?
I've been in contact w/ BBS in Ga. about some E28 and E88 wheels. They have been very helpful, but some of their suggestions just don't seem right.
Here's my latest doodling to compare know fits w/ possible wider fits
What width and o/s did you end up ordering?
I've been in contact w/ BBS in Ga. about some E28 and E88 wheels. They have been very helpful, but some of their suggestions just don't seem right.
Here's my latest doodling to compare know fits w/ possible wider fits
Mr. Verburg 
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Kein_Ersatz (02-20-2022)
02-19-2022 | 12:11 AM
#26
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From: Dubai
Having also E88 i made following observation ...
All with MPS cup2 225/265 stock size
car sits lower than RS ...
Original turbos 8x18/52 and 10x18/65, with 5mm Spacer no problem at all
OZ Allegerita 8x18/50 and 10x18/65, without spacer just fit
BBS E88 8x18/52 and 10x18/65, only survive coz i have a very hard suspension and very negative chamber (~ -3 deg), and after i pushed the fender at the rear about 10mm out with Cargraphik nut/bolt set.
than run Trofeo R on it .. but 235 in front ... but it got bad with the E88 only, scratching rear and front on the left side (as usual)
Running right now Nankang 235/265 on the OZs all clear
Why as usual ...? coz our cars are still more or less hand made and the chassis is not perfectly aligned with the suspension axle, or fender differ (best check by measuring outside fender to fixpoint on frame)
tried to adjust the suspension frame, with a little success but still not mid aligned. Somehow on most of the old 911s, the right distance center / fender is longer than on the left ...
But really what bothers me is that the rims have (theoretically??) same size but still totally different outcome ...
All with MPS cup2 225/265 stock size
car sits lower than RS ...
Original turbos 8x18/52 and 10x18/65, with 5mm Spacer no problem at all
OZ Allegerita 8x18/50 and 10x18/65, without spacer just fit
BBS E88 8x18/52 and 10x18/65, only survive coz i have a very hard suspension and very negative chamber (~ -3 deg), and after i pushed the fender at the rear about 10mm out with Cargraphik nut/bolt set.
than run Trofeo R on it .. but 235 in front ... but it got bad with the E88 only, scratching rear and front on the left side (as usual)
Running right now Nankang 235/265 on the OZs all clear
Why as usual ...? coz our cars are still more or less hand made and the chassis is not perfectly aligned with the suspension axle, or fender differ (best check by measuring outside fender to fixpoint on frame)
tried to adjust the suspension frame, with a little success but still not mid aligned. Somehow on most of the old 911s, the right distance center / fender is longer than on the left ...
But really what bothers me is that the rims have (theoretically??) same size but still totally different outcome ...
Last edited by Holger3.2; 02-19-2022 at 12:14 AM.
02-19-2022 | 11:45 PM
#27
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most modern wheels have .5" flanges but BBS have .4" flanges,( at least on the aftermarket wheels) and Fuchs .35"
none of that affects fit unless the tire doesn't project out from the flange
