Rack's On, But Can't Center Steering Wheel-Help!
11-11-2009, 10:57 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Rack's On, But Can't Center Steering Wheel-Help!
Porsche Friends, I just installed my steering rack and noticed that my steering wheel was way off. So, after centering the rack and disconnecting the battery, I took the steering wheel off (to center it) attempting to follow the procedures in the DIY guide. Unfortunately that locked the steering shaft. So I disengaged the steering wheel's universal joint from the rack and use the key to unlock the steering shaft. I can now turn the steering wheel's shaft by reaching underneath the dash board area, but I don't understand how to center the steering wheel before I reattach the U-joint to the rack again.
So, folks, is there a simpler way to adjust/unlock this "coiled contact unit" so that I can center my steering wheel again and attach it to the rack? The DIY mentions that in order to center the "coiled contact unit" properly, you will need to place the contact unit in the end stop position. So where is that position?
Signed Frustrated as Heck,
Ken
So, folks, is there a simpler way to adjust/unlock this "coiled contact unit" so that I can center my steering wheel again and attach it to the rack? The DIY mentions that in order to center the "coiled contact unit" properly, you will need to place the contact unit in the end stop position. So where is that position?
Signed Frustrated as Heck,
Ken
for swapping out your steering rack.
11-11-2009, 11:51 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, I just put in the rack. So the tie rods aren't connected to the carriers. Therefore, the wheels aren't also.
Thanks,
Ken
11-11-2009, 08:06 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Front toe is absolutely the last thing to worry about.
Center the rack rod 'notch' in the window provided by the plactic screw at left front of rack ... better if you have a lock down bolt shaped to screw into this notch ( I forget the thread pitch, but I made one by turning the correctly sized bolt end down to a 'nipple')
As the steering wheel is off, and you likely now have no idea of the tension on the clock spring .... now is the time to reset it: set the arrow indicator @ 12:00 o'clock, and release the tab holding the clock spring. It will go to its neutral osition, likely by coiling clockwise ( I said likely - provided it didn't earlier end up being coiled bassackwards
) NOW .... holding the lock tab down, wind the spring counterclockwise two full turns + whatever fraction of a turn required to match the arrows: lock the tab .... Install the steering wheel loosely, and put a bungee cord on the wheel to keep it from turning more than , say 1/8 turn.
If the slip joint to the steering shaft was untouched, set the steering wheel dead level ..... and do your best to match the universal to the racks input splines
You get the picture .... the objective is to have the rack centered by its notch - to have the clock spring left with adequate pre tension to allow right turns without breaking the little phucker - and to then have the steering wheel top face dead horizontal when it is connected to the rack.
With all that done, when the toe is correctly set, both tie rod ends will be of equal length such that the car will hold a straight line ... hands off , at speed ( doesn't work as well if rod lenghts are assymetric).
It is a breeze to do if caught correctly first time - if not, the time it took to type this will appear to be a mere flash in the pan of life - as you are sweating & swearing your guts out, readjusting the splines. BTW, if the fine splines on the rack don't line up as desired, you can shift one coarse spline on the steering wheel, and reset on the rack ( one wheel spline = approx. 3 rack splines, or thereabouts ...
Center the rack rod 'notch' in the window provided by the plactic screw at left front of rack ... better if you have a lock down bolt shaped to screw into this notch ( I forget the thread pitch, but I made one by turning the correctly sized bolt end down to a 'nipple')
As the steering wheel is off, and you likely now have no idea of the tension on the clock spring .... now is the time to reset it: set the arrow indicator @ 12:00 o'clock, and release the tab holding the clock spring. It will go to its neutral osition, likely by coiling clockwise ( I said likely - provided it didn't earlier end up being coiled bassackwards
) NOW .... holding the lock tab down, wind the spring counterclockwise two full turns + whatever fraction of a turn required to match the arrows: lock the tab .... Install the steering wheel loosely, and put a bungee cord on the wheel to keep it from turning more than , say 1/8 turn.If the slip joint to the steering shaft was untouched, set the steering wheel dead level ..... and do your best to match the universal to the racks input splines
You get the picture .... the objective is to have the rack centered by its notch - to have the clock spring left with adequate pre tension to allow right turns without breaking the little phucker - and to then have the steering wheel top face dead horizontal when it is connected to the rack.
With all that done, when the toe is correctly set, both tie rod ends will be of equal length such that the car will hold a straight line ... hands off , at speed ( doesn't work as well if rod lenghts are assymetric).
It is a breeze to do if caught correctly first time - if not, the time it took to type this will appear to be a mere flash in the pan of life - as you are sweating & swearing your guts out, readjusting the splines. BTW, if the fine splines on the rack don't line up as desired, you can shift one coarse spline on the steering wheel, and reset on the rack ( one wheel spline = approx. 3 rack splines, or thereabouts ...
11-11-2009, 08:09 PM
#7
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Front toe is absolutely the last thing to worry about.
Center the rack rod 'notch' in the window provided by the plactic screw at left front of rack ... better if you have a lock down bolt shaped to screw into this notch ( I forget the thread pitch, but I made one by turning the correctly sized bolt end down to a 'nipple')
As the steering wheel is off, and you likely now have no idea of the tension on the clock spring .... now is the time to reset it: set the arrow indicator @ 12:00 o'clock, and release the tab holding the clock spring. It will go to its neutral osition, likely by coiling clockwise ( I said likely - provided it didn't earlier end up being coiled bassackwards ) NOW .... holding the lock tab down, wind the spring counterclockwise two full turns + whatever fraction of a turn required to match the arrows: lock the tab .... Install the steering wheel loosely, and put a bungee cord on the wheel to keep it from turning more than , say 1/8 turn.
If the slip joint to the steering shaft was untouched, set the steering wheel dead level ..... and do your best to match the universal to the racks input splines
You get the picture .... the objective is to have the rack centered by its notch - to have the clock spring left with adequate pre tension to allow right turns without breaking the little phucker - and to then have the steering wheel top face dead horizontal when it is connected to the rack.
With all that done, when the toe is correctly set, both tie rod ends will be of equal length such that the car will hold a straight line ... hands off , at speed ( doesn't work as well if rod lenghts are assymetric).
It is a breeze to do if caught correctly first time - if not, the time it took to type this will appear to be a mere flash in the pan of life - as you are sweating & swearing your guts out, readjusting the splines. BTW, if the fine splines on the rack don't line up as desired, you can shift one coarse spline on the steering wheel, and reset on the rack ( one wheel spline = approx. 3 rack splines, or thereabouts ...
Center the rack rod 'notch' in the window provided by the plactic screw at left front of rack ... better if you have a lock down bolt shaped to screw into this notch ( I forget the thread pitch, but I made one by turning the correctly sized bolt end down to a 'nipple')
As the steering wheel is off, and you likely now have no idea of the tension on the clock spring .... now is the time to reset it: set the arrow indicator @ 12:00 o'clock, and release the tab holding the clock spring. It will go to its neutral osition, likely by coiling clockwise ( I said likely - provided it didn't earlier end up being coiled bassackwards
) NOW .... holding the lock tab down, wind the spring counterclockwise two full turns + whatever fraction of a turn required to match the arrows: lock the tab .... Install the steering wheel loosely, and put a bungee cord on the wheel to keep it from turning more than , say 1/8 turn.If the slip joint to the steering shaft was untouched, set the steering wheel dead level ..... and do your best to match the universal to the racks input splines
You get the picture .... the objective is to have the rack centered by its notch - to have the clock spring left with adequate pre tension to allow right turns without breaking the little phucker - and to then have the steering wheel top face dead horizontal when it is connected to the rack.
With all that done, when the toe is correctly set, both tie rod ends will be of equal length such that the car will hold a straight line ... hands off , at speed ( doesn't work as well if rod lenghts are assymetric).
It is a breeze to do if caught correctly first time - if not, the time it took to type this will appear to be a mere flash in the pan of life - as you are sweating & swearing your guts out, readjusting the splines. BTW, if the fine splines on the rack don't line up as desired, you can shift one coarse spline on the steering wheel, and reset on the rack ( one wheel spline = approx. 3 rack splines, or thereabouts ...
Andreas
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11-11-2009, 10:23 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
11-11-2009, 11:02 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
WoW! Thanks for the extremely informative writeup. I did exactly as you suggested and from the looks of it, the steering wheel and rack are centered. I'd just lowered it off the jack stands. So I'll fill her up with fluid, check for leaks and test drive it tomorrow. So we'll see. Cross fingers.
Thanks everyone for you help and an update will follow tomorrow evening,
Ken
Thanks everyone for you help and an update will follow tomorrow evening,
Ken
02-17-2014, 04:47 PM
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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