TheBen

I'm sure other people have posted about this. Just annoyed right now. Anyway, just got my car a couple of weeks ago, and went to have the car tested so I can register it. Anyway, my car failed. The tailpipe emissions are very clean, but apparently the "computer was not ready." (maybe due to the battery being disconnected when shipped) The technician suggested I drive it a while from cold tomorrow and he would check the computer to see if it could be retested.

Any other members have any advice? The good news is the car is clean and not throwing any codes, but this is still troublesome and annoying.

2ndof2

I think the first thing you need to determine is WHY it failed. If its simply readiness codes not being set then it may just require some driving around.

There is a drive cycle sequence that you can try to perform but unless you have an endless stretch of road with no stop signs or lights with no traffic this can be difficult to do.

I'm a bit far from you or I'd lend you my OBD2 code reader so you could check to see when the readiness codes are all set. Maybe someone else closer can help you with this.

Hopefully there were no fault codes detected in the smog test?

If you like, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a pdf file with the drive cycle.

TheBen

Yes, it was just the readiness codes! No fault codes came up. Thanks for the quick response. So you think I should take it down the PCH or the freeway and drive it for a while? About how long do you think?

2ndof2

When I had my motor's top-end redone due to a fault code for clogged SAI ports I thought that driving around to reset the codes would take a while but it didn't. Go drive around for a while then find a place that can quickly hook up a code reader like Pep Boys and tell you if the codes are set to go. Don't let them charge you to do this. It only takes a few seconds.

1pcarnut

It's not as bad as you think. California has referee stations, usually at a local community college where you make an appointment for just this thing. They will check the smog output and as long as the mechanical side of the car is functioning they will bypass the readiness codes and issue you a certificate for the $8.25 fee, no other charge. Don't bother with all the driving cycles to try and reset the codes.

On another note, it is California law that the seller is responsible for seeing that the car smogs and he/she is not relieved of this just because they sell it to someone who is unaware of their responsibility. This only applies to cars sold and purchased in CA, not those coming in from out of state.

TheBen

This was bought out of state.

2ndof2

+1 what he said ^

I actually didn't think my car's readiness codes would reset quickly after having all the work done to the motor so I made an appointment with the smog ref. When I got there and they put it through the test the car's readiness codes had already reset. I would've passed w/out the ref.

It is the prior owner's responsibility to have the car pass. If someone buys a car that passed then flips it to another buyer w/in 90 days (or so) of being tested there is no need for the guy flipping the car to have it retested to sell it.

I got screwed because of this little loophole since the guy doing my PPI didn't have the Porsche diagnostics software and just a code reader that said no problemo! Two weeks later the little red light came on.

ssarchi

you could sell it....

TheBen

ha ha! Not selling it.

TheBen

Its just the readiness codes. The tech. said the car would pass very easily on all other accounts. Just annoying I have to spend time getting retested. If not, I think the Smog referee is a good idea.

Slow Guy

Do a search on "readiness flags" or "OBDII drive cycles", this has been covered in great detail several times.

coltj

Try to reset the codes yourself. I've done it successfully twice, once even with Yukon Dave's cantakerous, tempermental '96 Turbo.

See here for more details re. my '96 C4:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...9-longish.html

Here’s "the cycle"

1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.
2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.
3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.
4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.
Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH

My advice; start with a cold start a let the car idle for about 2 minutes 10 seconds; that's easy to do. Thereafter follow the directions re. speed and time. DON'T exceed 3000 rpms or 60 mph at any point. On my most recent attempt, I stopped for several lights/signs and still succeeded.

Good luck.

Chuck W.

I've had to do this twice. Very easy and it works! Good luck.

scott watkins

After changing the battery on mine had the same issue and could not get the state inspection.

Took the car to the local Porsche dealer and for a one hour fee, good as new and inspected.

The mechanic plug in the diagnostic tool and took the car out for a drive.

911

Fyi, I had the same issue when I bought my 993 six years ago. I tried driving my car the prescribed way to reset the codes, but it took forever. So, I took into the dealer so they could reset it for me. Afterwards I took the car to get smogged and it passed right away.

Taking it to the dealer wasn't ideal, but it worked for me.