The 993 re-gear challenge - The Street version
#48
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Poland
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Hello,
interesting topic which sudenly finished. I PM few of you - thanks for all answer but what about C4 gearbox - precisly g64 20 - may I re-gear it if I get 950 302 901 21 (or if99330290116) mainshaft?
based on post " GT2 Gearbox shaft part number? " posted by 993 RS - YES
I am not a mechanic so I can be wrong which shaft is which but I took quick look diagram of the C4 gearbox and torque in converted forward via "lower" - secondary shaft - which is longer than in C2
Is it correct?
hard time of winter projects....
thanks
interesting topic which sudenly finished. I PM few of you - thanks for all answer but what about C4 gearbox - precisly g64 20 - may I re-gear it if I get 950 302 901 21 (or if99330290116) mainshaft?
based on post " GT2 Gearbox shaft part number? " posted by 993 RS - YES
I am not a mechanic so I can be wrong which shaft is which but I took quick look diagram of the C4 gearbox and torque in converted forward via "lower" - secondary shaft - which is longer than in C2
Is it correct?
hard time of winter projects....
thanks
#49
Hello,
interesting topic which sudenly finished. I PM few of you - thanks for all answer but what about C4 gearbox - precisly g64 20 - may I re-gear it if I get 950 302 901 21 (or if99330290116) mainshaft?
based on post " GT2 Gearbox shaft part number? " posted by 993 RS - YES
I am not a mechanic so I can be wrong which shaft is which but I took quick look diagram of the C4 gearbox and torque in converted forward via "lower" - secondary shaft - which is longer than in C2
Is it correct?
hard time of winter projects....
thanks
interesting topic which sudenly finished. I PM few of you - thanks for all answer but what about C4 gearbox - precisly g64 20 - may I re-gear it if I get 950 302 901 21 (or if99330290116) mainshaft?
based on post " GT2 Gearbox shaft part number? " posted by 993 RS - YES
I am not a mechanic so I can be wrong which shaft is which but I took quick look diagram of the C4 gearbox and torque in converted forward via "lower" - secondary shaft - which is longer than in C2
Is it correct?
hard time of winter projects....
thanks
your concern is w/ the layshaft, all of them have a layshaft w/ pinion gears at the back end that mesh w/ the large crown gear in the diff. But the g64 versions of the layshaft are also splined at the front end to connect to the awd viscous coupler. If you wish to retain the awd mechanism you must use a g64 layshaft. If you can live w/o awd then you can use any g50 layshaft that suits
993GT2 was 2wd and its layshaft is not splined at the front
#50
Race Car
any of the g50/20, 21, 30, 31, 32, 33 mainshafts can be interchanged, only the g50/3x mainshafts have all 6 gears loose or changeable at will. You will only be concerned about that if you want to change 1 & 2. Some of the early '94/95 mainshafts do have loose 1 and/or 2 which can be changed.
#51
I believe that the changeover was
G50.20 - 02693
G50.20 - 02174 (M220)
G50.21 - 05072
G50.21 - 03094 (M220)
#52
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the education everyone. Not sure I fully understand Bill's graphs, but I'm working on it. Here's my complaint... for street the stock gearing works fine, but on the track, I have a big problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd... seems to drop way out of the power band. I suppose solving this problem could create a similar problem shifting from 3rd to 4th. Most of the tracks I run on (haven't been to VIR yet) I stay in 2, 3 and 4 anyway. So, I don't know how big of a problem this would be. I have a 95... Thoughts on a cost effective solution?
#53
I posted this before - you raise the question again.
Simple cheapest solution --- move existing 3 to 4 ---- existing 5 to 6
Get new 3rd at about 1.65 approx . Get 5th at about 1,117.
Still leaves 6th cruising gear revs ok, but makes it usable on the track.
Getting new 3rd & 5th brings the ratios 2nd, 3rd,4th,5th ,6thcloser and much more user friendly on both the track and the road.
Simple cheapest solution --- move existing 3 to 4 ---- existing 5 to 6
Get new 3rd at about 1.65 approx . Get 5th at about 1,117.
Still leaves 6th cruising gear revs ok, but makes it usable on the track.
Getting new 3rd & 5th brings the ratios 2nd, 3rd,4th,5th ,6thcloser and much more user friendly on both the track and the road.
#54
Rennlist Member
I like the re-use of this approach. Saves $$$. But it doesn't address the 1-2 RPM drop which is my biggest issue with the stock gears. Perhaps there are TWO ideal geariing solutions - one for the track (close 2-6), one for street (less 1-2 RPM drop, tall 6, whatever else needs to be adjusted in the middle).
indeed, for street drving, regearing has very little appeal to me.
The only time i ever really realize that our standard gear ratios are less-than-optimal is when i'm doing a "track day", that's when i realize that second gear is oddly chosen and the gaps from 2-3 and 3-4 leave a bit to be desired.
Yes, i drive like a "*****" on the street
Bruce,
I really appreciate your input and will certainly contact you when my reserves of disposable income begin to grow again. Then we can determine the option that will work for ME. I'm hoping the 2nd and 3rd regear option will work but only the graphs will tell...
Thanks!
I really appreciate your input and will certainly contact you when my reserves of disposable income begin to grow again. Then we can determine the option that will work for ME. I'm hoping the 2nd and 3rd regear option will work but only the graphs will tell...
Thanks!
Nice.
Next time i see you at an OC event, please prepare to have your brain picked a bit.
cheers
Craig
#56
1st Gear
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Thanks for the education everyone. Not sure I fully understand Bill's graphs, but I'm working on it. Here's my complaint... for street the stock gearing works fine, but on the track, I have a big problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd... seems to drop way out of the power band. I suppose solving this problem could create a similar problem shifting from 3rd to 4th. Most of the tracks I run on (haven't been to VIR yet) I stay in 2, 3 and 4 anyway. So, I don't know how big of a problem this would be. I have a 95... Thoughts on a cost effective solution?
I am in the same boat, only I have a 96'. I feel on the track, on long sweeping turns, I either hold 2nd at 6000+ rpm or go into third and have low power. Also on the freeway, I ride 5th a lot for the sound and ability to let the revs slow me down. (drama or police). Maybe a lower 3rd, 4th and 5th are the answer?
I am in the same boat, only I have a 96'. I feel on the track, on long sweeping turns, I either hold 2nd at 6000+ rpm or go into third and have low power. Also on the freeway, I ride 5th a lot for the sound and ability to let the revs slow me down. (drama or police). Maybe a lower 3rd, 4th and 5th are the answer?
#58
Instructor
I think this is the right answer for most people. Changin 1 & 2 is just too expensive and in reality, isn't really solving a major issue other than the 1-2 shift. You typically would spend 90% of your time in 2/3/4/5 so making those behave nicely together seems like the best investment. Personally, i actually like a long 2nd gear as long as subsequent shifts are spaced correctly.
#59
I changed to RS ratios for 3, 4, and 5. Kept 1, 2, 6 stock. Absolutely fantastic gearbox. Really wouldn't want 5th gear in 6th position -- terrible for modern highway travel. And there is no discernible difference in 2nd gear ratio between the /20 (stock U.S.) and /31 (RS) boxes.
No-brainer, IMHO, to do it this way -- great bang for the buck.
No-brainer, IMHO, to do it this way -- great bang for the buck.
#60
I changed to RS ratios for 3, 4, and 5. Kept 1, 2, 6 stock. Absolutely fantastic gearbox. Really wouldn't want 5th gear in 6th position -- terrible for modern highway travel. And there is no discernible difference in 2nd gear ratio between the /20 (stock U.S.) and /31 (RS) boxes.
No-brainer, IMHO, to do it this way -- great bang for the buck.
No-brainer, IMHO, to do it this way -- great bang for the buck.
Just my .02.