diagnosis of MAF problem
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
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From: Kuwait
diagnosis of MAF problem
Hi Guys,
Received Fault 21 - HOT FILM MAF, intermittent, present, Short to B+.
Is that a BAD MAF ? or can i start checking other things like DME etc.
Your help is much appreciated
Br,
Najeeb
-------------------------------------------
'95 993
Received Fault 21 - HOT FILM MAF, intermittent, present, Short to B+.
Is that a BAD MAF ? or can i start checking other things like DME etc.
Your help is much appreciated
Br,
Najeeb
-------------------------------------------
'95 993
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: CA>Oklahoma!
Hi Najeeb,
You could try just cleaning it first to see if that clears it up. Cheap and easy, just get a can of MAF cleaner from your local parts store, remove the air filter, and give a good squirt of the cleaner into the MAF. Let it dry and repeat several times.
Replace the air filter, start the car and drive it some to see if the problem clears up.
You could try just cleaning it first to see if that clears it up. Cheap and easy, just get a can of MAF cleaner from your local parts store, remove the air filter, and give a good squirt of the cleaner into the MAF. Let it dry and repeat several times.
Replace the air filter, start the car and drive it some to see if the problem clears up.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
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From: Kuwait
Hi Guys,
Changed the air filter. cleaned the MAF with air sensor cleaner.
The Idle seems to be fine. However, it seems to be getting wrong data from the ECU??
could Fault ECTS 2 causing some sort of error? or i can conclude that i have a dead MAF?
Thanks for your help
Najeeb
----------------
'95 993
Changed the air filter. cleaned the MAF with air sensor cleaner.
The Idle seems to be fine. However, it seems to be getting wrong data from the ECU??
could Fault ECTS 2 causing some sort of error? or i can conclude that i have a dead MAF?
Thanks for your help
Najeeb
----------------
'95 993
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 205
From: Paris
Najeeb, kifak?
keap one post for your problems, and we can react on it. There are several posts, and I did not know where to answer.
The more you give us details, and gather in one post, the better we can answer.
You explained on another post that your intake blew up.
if this is the case, you will have plenty of error codes stored.
you have to put everything back together, clear the errors , go from there.
if intake blew up, I think this is electrical at 95%
piston compressing fuel/air mixture, and the fuel was sparked before TDC
Electrical
Three things do that:
First is ignition switch is dead. (under driver seat) giving crazy spark orders
Second, broken distributor belt
third, electrical harness in kuwait
Mechanical 5%
your catalytic converter might have burnt the cartridges.
the honeycomb becomes rock hard and clogs when cold
it is like starting engine with clogged exhaust.
but in my trivial logic, this cannot pop off the intake
the engine will go backward half a stroke only
conclusion:
check distributor belt, easy diy cost zero
second: ignition switch is $70ish you can change it.
third check harness recall, porsche does it for free
keap one post for your problems, and we can react on it. There are several posts, and I did not know where to answer.
The more you give us details, and gather in one post, the better we can answer.
You explained on another post that your intake blew up.
if this is the case, you will have plenty of error codes stored.
you have to put everything back together, clear the errors , go from there.
if intake blew up, I think this is electrical at 95%
piston compressing fuel/air mixture, and the fuel was sparked before TDC
Electrical
Three things do that:
First is ignition switch is dead. (under driver seat) giving crazy spark orders
Second, broken distributor belt
third, electrical harness in kuwait
Mechanical 5%
your catalytic converter might have burnt the cartridges.
the honeycomb becomes rock hard and clogs when cold
it is like starting engine with clogged exhaust.
but in my trivial logic, this cannot pop off the intake
the engine will go backward half a stroke only
conclusion:
check distributor belt, easy diy cost zero
second: ignition switch is $70ish you can change it.
third check harness recall, porsche does it for free
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Kuwait
ahlain Geolab,
First i apologize for the multiple posts. These gremlins are frustrating me and the weather is getting really nice here
.
I placed everything back together- the intakes and all. I found the the rotor misfiring on 3 cylinders. The pole that the rotor fits one was bent to one side and apparently when the car starts the rotor wiggles inside thus skipping the firing order. Fixed it and replaced the cap and rotor.
Now, the car starts fine. When driven, however,i do hear "phut phut " and a deep throaty sound (at idle) signaling something is not right!
so i took it to dealership and had them run a obd scan on the car. They came up with a couple of fault codes and they are :
21 - Hot Film MAF - short to B+
16- Throttle position Sensor - open circ/short to +
27 - IACV Opening winding - op circ/ground short
28 - IACV Opening winding - op circ/ground short
14 - ECTS 2 - signal implausible.
The dealership here is the worst you can ever find. Also, the cat has been removed. The harness was changed years ago when i was in the US i believe. Hope this makes sense and i appologize again for the multiple posts.
Thx.
Najeeb
--------------------
95 993
First i apologize for the multiple posts. These gremlins are frustrating me and the weather is getting really nice here
.I placed everything back together- the intakes and all. I found the the rotor misfiring on 3 cylinders. The pole that the rotor fits one was bent to one side and apparently when the car starts the rotor wiggles inside thus skipping the firing order. Fixed it and replaced the cap and rotor.
Now, the car starts fine. When driven, however,i do hear "phut phut " and a deep throaty sound (at idle) signaling something is not right!
so i took it to dealership and had them run a obd scan on the car. They came up with a couple of fault codes and they are :
21 - Hot Film MAF - short to B+
16- Throttle position Sensor - open circ/short to +
27 - IACV Opening winding - op circ/ground short
28 - IACV Opening winding - op circ/ground short
14 - ECTS 2 - signal implausible.
The dealership here is the worst you can ever find. Also, the cat has been removed. The harness was changed years ago when i was in the US i believe. Hope this makes sense and i appologize again for the multiple posts.
Thx.
Najeeb
--------------------
95 993
RL Technical Advisor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,870
Likes: 75
From: Portland Oregon
Najeeb,
Some suggestions for you:
1) Check the connectors VERY carefully. Oxidation/corrosion is the cause of many such issues and make sure everything is clean and shiny. Confirm continuity.
2) Check the connector on the throttle position switch; same issues.
3) Replace Idle Stabilizer if its connector shows ground shorts; they don't last all that long.
4) Make certain the belt inside the distributor is intact and the connector on the side of the unit has continuity.
Some suggestions for you:
1) Check the connectors VERY carefully. Oxidation/corrosion is the cause of many such issues and make sure everything is clean and shiny. Confirm continuity.
2) Check the connector on the throttle position switch; same issues.
3) Replace Idle Stabilizer if its connector shows ground shorts; they don't last all that long.
4) Make certain the belt inside the distributor is intact and the connector on the side of the unit has continuity.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Kuwait
Najeeb,
Some suggestions for you:
1) Check the connectors VERY carefully. Oxidation/corrosion is the cause of many such issues and make sure everything is clean and shiny. Confirm continuity.
2) Check the connector on the throttle position switch; same issues.
3) Replace Idle Stabilizer if its connector shows ground shorts; they don't last all that long.
4) Make certain the belt inside the distributor is intact and the connector on the side of the unit has continuity.
Some suggestions for you:
1) Check the connectors VERY carefully. Oxidation/corrosion is the cause of many such issues and make sure everything is clean and shiny. Confirm continuity.
2) Check the connector on the throttle position switch; same issues.
3) Replace Idle Stabilizer if its connector shows ground shorts; they don't last all that long.
4) Make certain the belt inside the distributor is intact and the connector on the side of the unit has continuity.
Hi Steve,
I verified that the dist belt is intact and working properly.
When i start the car, the idle begins at approx 1100 mark after 3-4 minutes it drops very low, as if the car is going to die.
While the car is running, i unplugged the connector from the ISV - the RPM increased ( Is it fine?)
Also, for the ECTS 2 error, i have replace it with a new one thinking that this might be one of the culprit.
should i spray the connectors with contact cleaner? Also how can i test if the MAF is working properly? I cleaned it, however, i still get the "phut phut"
Thanks 4 ur help
Najeeb
------------------------
'95 993
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