G50/31 gearbox enhancement
#46
#47
Also, can you customize/specify the ratios when you special order one of these?
#49
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yes, you can buy it without the core change - my /05 was not acceptable toward a core change either and it appeared only a /3x core would be acceptable. IIRC, I paid about $2k more since I did not have a /3x core to exchange. I ended up selling my used /05 for about $3500 and the Porsche LSD that came with the /32 for about $1000 (I already had a Guard unit I wanted to keep).
#50
RL Technical Advisor
Porsche ran out of transmission casings in '07 so yes,....they must get a rebuildable like core (/3x) for any of these Motorsport transmissions. The core charge is something like $2K.
#51
For $2k, I'd keep my good tranny.
If I ever sold the car, put the original tranny back in and I'd bet you could sell the /31 for over $6k. I'd pay at least that much for a used /31 if I found one and could test drive it.
The other option is just selling the original tranny. I'd bet you could get significantly more than $2k for a tranny with 30k miles on it that works perfectly. (and also save on the return shipping of the core). It just seems like a waste to use a perfectly good tranny as a core.
If I ever sold the car, put the original tranny back in and I'd bet you could sell the /31 for over $6k. I'd pay at least that much for a used /31 if I found one and could test drive it.
The other option is just selling the original tranny. I'd bet you could get significantly more than $2k for a tranny with 30k miles on it that works perfectly. (and also save on the return shipping of the core). It just seems like a waste to use a perfectly good tranny as a core.
#52
Rennlist Member
I re-geared almost 8yrs ago. I did it at Jerry Woods w/ Guard Gears and I opted for re-building vs. buying a used (at least that's what was available at that time) euro/RS tranny. I have the ratio's on a separate computer, so I can't give you the exact details, but we opted for a more "aggressive" stack vs. Euro and also RS (I think. I'll have to double-check how my stack was optimized vs RS, but definitely it was more aggressive than Euro).
I did this when I had the luxury of having some extra $$ in the bank and I did it knowing full well I wouldn't recover on resale - I did it for me and for my driving pleasure. At the time (ie 2002), total cost for parts and labor came out to ~10k! It was a pleasure spending this $$ and I haven't stopped smiling since!
Since my car is a '95, I upgraded 2nd through 6th with Paul Guard gears! Definitely the 2nd gear upgrade makes the car way more driveable around town. And I went with the Euro 6th gear - much more useable on the freeway. I also updated the synchros, going stainless and Jerry checked-out my box and made sure everything was in order.
Instead of putting in a new LSD, we re-built my factory LSD. At the time, this was the most logical approach for me and I have no regrets. This is my daily driver (131k miles and countinq!) and the cost-vs-return for adding a Guard LSD didn't make sense.
If course, part of this upgrade was also installing an RS LWF and RS motor and tranny mounts!
Again, this was done for me and for my driving pleasure! The tranny sounds sweet (has a low grade hum when in gear - look at a Guard gear vs. factory, and you'll know why!) and I love the combo this gives me. Since I've been unfortunate (or fortunate??) not to have experience massive HP on a regular basis, I can't compare my HP with a GT3 or TT, but It's enough for me and the balance of this car is quite simply perfect.
In today's economy (and the fact that when I did this I was single w/ no kids!), I guess any big $$ causes a bit more thinking, but if you have the ability to investigate this, and the desire to keep your 993 w/out really seeing any $ come out of this upgrade, it is indeed a very nice modification that compliments the car.
As we all know, Porsche built US-version 993 tranny boxes that weren't optimized for driving, but optimized for some stupid noise or emission criteria. Problem solved!!
I did this when I had the luxury of having some extra $$ in the bank and I did it knowing full well I wouldn't recover on resale - I did it for me and for my driving pleasure. At the time (ie 2002), total cost for parts and labor came out to ~10k! It was a pleasure spending this $$ and I haven't stopped smiling since!
Since my car is a '95, I upgraded 2nd through 6th with Paul Guard gears! Definitely the 2nd gear upgrade makes the car way more driveable around town. And I went with the Euro 6th gear - much more useable on the freeway. I also updated the synchros, going stainless and Jerry checked-out my box and made sure everything was in order.
Instead of putting in a new LSD, we re-built my factory LSD. At the time, this was the most logical approach for me and I have no regrets. This is my daily driver (131k miles and countinq!) and the cost-vs-return for adding a Guard LSD didn't make sense.
If course, part of this upgrade was also installing an RS LWF and RS motor and tranny mounts!
Again, this was done for me and for my driving pleasure! The tranny sounds sweet (has a low grade hum when in gear - look at a Guard gear vs. factory, and you'll know why!) and I love the combo this gives me. Since I've been unfortunate (or fortunate??) not to have experience massive HP on a regular basis, I can't compare my HP with a GT3 or TT, but It's enough for me and the balance of this car is quite simply perfect.
In today's economy (and the fact that when I did this I was single w/ no kids!), I guess any big $$ causes a bit more thinking, but if you have the ability to investigate this, and the desire to keep your 993 w/out really seeing any $ come out of this upgrade, it is indeed a very nice modification that compliments the car.
As we all know, Porsche built US-version 993 tranny boxes that weren't optimized for driving, but optimized for some stupid noise or emission criteria. Problem solved!!
#54
RL Technical Advisor
It all depends on what the car is used for,....
The stock one is the best choice for all around, general usage.
The RS one is better for the track/racing where one needs a usable 1st gear for slow & tight corners. This is called a full-active gearbox where every gear is used on each lap.
The stock one is the best choice for all around, general usage.
The RS one is better for the track/racing where one needs a usable 1st gear for slow & tight corners. This is called a full-active gearbox where every gear is used on each lap.
#55
Rennlist Member
I have thought about the re gear a lot, and I think there are three main factors that bear on the decision:
Resale. Cost recovery is probably going to be nil.
The owner's net worth.
The level of enthusiasm of the owner.
For a high net worth owner, the $10,000 cost will have zero impact on his bottom line (for liquid assets). The challenge for those owners having lower net worths, where, say, the cost amounts to x percent of their bottom line, is to quantify the level of their enthusiasm in dollar terms.
Resale. Cost recovery is probably going to be nil.
The owner's net worth.
The level of enthusiasm of the owner.
For a high net worth owner, the $10,000 cost will have zero impact on his bottom line (for liquid assets). The challenge for those owners having lower net worths, where, say, the cost amounts to x percent of their bottom line, is to quantify the level of their enthusiasm in dollar terms.
i would not regear a street car.
on the street if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i just live with it.
On the track, if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i cry.
i'd have to have a lot more $$$$$$$$ to regear my street focused car.
cheers
Craig
#56
Rennlist Member
IMO a tranny re-gear is money well spent IF YOU TRACK YOUR CAR.
i would not regear a street car.
on the street if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i just live with it.
On the track, if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i cry.
i'd have to have a lot more $$$$$$$$ to regear my street focused car.
cheers
Craig
i would not regear a street car.
on the street if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i just live with it.
On the track, if i'm 600 rpm too low for a specific circumstance, i cry.
i'd have to have a lot more $$$$$$$$ to regear my street focused car.
cheers
Craig
The only exception MIGHT be to exactly replicate the g50/21 ratios in a '95 model and create a euro spec clone (which would include replicating everything else to this standard). The euro spec cars would be bumped one class (in the present case to H). slv993 is currently waiting for a response from Donna Amico on this very issue. I'm more than a little curious about the outcome. From the 2009 rulebook "All Euro-spec cars with any
performance advantage (compression, motronics, etc.) over their U.S. counterparts will be classed one class down the
alphabet from the U.S. models"
#57
Drifting
I just re read an article in Octane about Steve McQueen's 1969 911 S.
He bought the car just prior to the filming of "Le Mans", and ended up liking it so much he decided to keep it. But before shipping it home, he had it sent to Stuttgart "to be re-geared."
He bought the car just prior to the filming of "Le Mans", and ended up liking it so much he decided to keep it. But before shipping it home, he had it sent to Stuttgart "to be re-geared."