Mechanical Lifters// 993 RS spec motor
#16
Your car is beautiful !!!! I am slowly building one myself.
I think your best bet is to bring the car to a guy live steve or Dave at TREmotors . I would start with checking the compression and doing a leak down test... maybe something got stuck in a valve or something stupid. One thing I read in other engine build is that sometimes if aftermarket rods are used they sometime make contact in the engine case, in one case it was the oil pump housing.
I think if it was me I would be taking the engine back to the builder ASAP.... if he has left you hanging I would do the compression/leak down thing. If that checks out then I I think I would just drive it some more and keep a eye on the oil pressure. If the sound does not go away in 500-1000 miles you really should get it to a shop.
Good luck
I think your best bet is to bring the car to a guy live steve or Dave at TREmotors . I would start with checking the compression and doing a leak down test... maybe something got stuck in a valve or something stupid. One thing I read in other engine build is that sometimes if aftermarket rods are used they sometime make contact in the engine case, in one case it was the oil pump housing.
I think if it was me I would be taking the engine back to the builder ASAP.... if he has left you hanging I would do the compression/leak down thing. If that checks out then I I think I would just drive it some more and keep a eye on the oil pressure. If the sound does not go away in 500-1000 miles you really should get it to a shop.
Good luck
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: S. Orange County, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1st motor blew up on their dyno
I haven't contacted the shop that built it. It's a long story, but the the first motor they built had blown up on their dyno due to a used oil pump that failed. It wasn't my fault, I wanted a new pump from the very start. They did agree to fix it, but it wasn't without some major drama and attitudes. I ending up paying for a new pump and the costs of the tranport to and from their shop. I over that, it's never going back there.
**The last picture is a shot of the 1st motor. See the pump, it's all yellowish.. I thought it was suspect from the start. I was told "these pumps NEVER go bad .... just trust me..... "
then I get stuck with extra costs and moreover some major stress and attitudes.
**The last picture is a shot of the 1st motor. See the pump, it's all yellowish.. I thought it was suspect from the start. I was told "these pumps NEVER go bad .... just trust me..... "
then I get stuck with extra costs and moreover some major stress and attitudes.
#20
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Bump so Craig can find his thread!
#24
Rennlist Member
Obviously Steve has spoken, so there's your best words of advice.
But a couple of things I thought of:
2K RPM loaded or unloaded? Static RPM, or as you're going through that range?
993 shafts with the proper mechanical rocker conversion? Or backdated with 964 cam towers? In any case, as has been mentioned, the scope or screwdriver method is really, really, really good at ID'ing the spot.
I can't go back to your initial post, but is this a click, click, clicking or rhythmic sound?
Sorry to be the pessimist, but engine #1 that got me into 911's in the first place was from a rod knock. I'm sure the Pauter rods have near 100% QC, but that doesn't mean something didn't happen on assembly.
More if I think about it.........
But a couple of things I thought of:
2K RPM loaded or unloaded? Static RPM, or as you're going through that range?
993 shafts with the proper mechanical rocker conversion? Or backdated with 964 cam towers? In any case, as has been mentioned, the scope or screwdriver method is really, really, really good at ID'ing the spot.
I can't go back to your initial post, but is this a click, click, clicking or rhythmic sound?
Sorry to be the pessimist, but engine #1 that got me into 911's in the first place was from a rod knock. I'm sure the Pauter rods have near 100% QC, but that doesn't mean something didn't happen on assembly.
More if I think about it.........
#26
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: S. Orange County, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Race,
I would have responded sooner, but I'm really trying to get my car under control. Appreciate your suggestions along with everyone elses. I'll tell ya I need the help. I am ok wrench with a lead, but giving this my best shot.
OK, back to you:
No, I didn't build the motor, maybe I should have... A rubber band and paper clip..... twist and go.
Patrick Motorsports in AZ did the whole car. That's all I really have to say about that for now.
I could use some help about now... The pressure relief valve
(bottom of the case) has 4 pieces?
1/ the Nut
2/ Spring
3/ Brass guied w/washer
4/ the piston
Is this right? I am going to take a picture and post it.
I would have responded sooner, but I'm really trying to get my car under control. Appreciate your suggestions along with everyone elses. I'll tell ya I need the help. I am ok wrench with a lead, but giving this my best shot.
OK, back to you:
No, I didn't build the motor, maybe I should have... A rubber band and paper clip..... twist and go.
Patrick Motorsports in AZ did the whole car. That's all I really have to say about that for now.
I could use some help about now... The pressure relief valve
(bottom of the case) has 4 pieces?
1/ the Nut
2/ Spring
3/ Brass guied w/washer
4/ the piston
Is this right? I am going to take a picture and post it.
#27
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: S. Orange County, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, here is both pressure relief valves.
I lined them up next to each other... The one on the left is from the bottom of the case. Just seems like a lot of pieces.
1/ The Nut w/crush washer
2/ Spring
3/ Copper Sleeve w/copper guide
4/ Grooved Piston (O-ring?)
The one on the right is from the side of the case:
1/ The Nut w/crush washer
2/ The spring
Is this they way they should be? I'm just making sure.
Ok, I had time to edit the post and take a picture of the oil.
It's looking very MILKY... There is no chunks, but I'm not sure if its' very fine particals of metal or poss water/condensation?
One other fact, this is the ONLY oil since it was put back together (the second time) and that was 1000 miles, only.
FYI, it just came out a few seconds ago.
I am really worried about it, though.
I'd appreciate only serious responses.... at least for now.
Thank you!
I lined them up next to each other... The one on the left is from the bottom of the case. Just seems like a lot of pieces.
1/ The Nut w/crush washer
2/ Spring
3/ Copper Sleeve w/copper guide
4/ Grooved Piston (O-ring?)
The one on the right is from the side of the case:
1/ The Nut w/crush washer
2/ The spring
Is this they way they should be? I'm just making sure.
Ok, I had time to edit the post and take a picture of the oil.
It's looking very MILKY... There is no chunks, but I'm not sure if its' very fine particals of metal or poss water/condensation?
One other fact, this is the ONLY oil since it was put back together (the second time) and that was 1000 miles, only.
FYI, it just came out a few seconds ago.
I am really worried about it, though.
I'd appreciate only serious responses.... at least for now.
Thank you!
Last edited by craiger914; 08-01-2009 at 02:18 PM. Reason: had time to change the oil and post it
#28
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
The oil color may be an indication of excessive fuel in the oil (since water cannot be there, or shouldnt be there). Does the oil smell like fuel?
#29
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: S. Orange County, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes. The oil does smell like fuel. I told my brother that yesterday and he thought I was NUTS!
I haven't smelt the oil that just came out, thats' in the pan.
However, the tank up front smell like my racing fuel with out a doubt.
Here is another view of the oil, I just took and it looks like it's settling down....not that it matters.
So, how the hell would fuel be in the oil?
I haven't smelt the oil that just came out, thats' in the pan.
However, the tank up front smell like my racing fuel with out a doubt.
Here is another view of the oil, I just took and it looks like it's settling down....not that it matters.
So, how the hell would fuel be in the oil?
Last edited by craiger914; 08-01-2009 at 03:28 PM.
#30
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: S. Orange County, CA
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW, I chose a poor word as in "water"
I've been reading so much, everything is becoming blurry...
I thought I read that "sweat" or "condensation" just a little was normal?
Or was it the gear oil, it was one of the two, but I am leaning towards the oil.
Ya'd think the oil breathers would build a lttle moisture.....eh, I don't know...
But, if it were true, the tank up front would be the mother ship of condesation... Think about it, the tank is never close to full, about half..... so the hot oil would cause some sorta sweat?
Maybe I am way off.... All I know is this is getting to be too much!
And obviously you nailed it from a glance.
I've been reading so much, everything is becoming blurry...
I thought I read that "sweat" or "condensation" just a little was normal?
Or was it the gear oil, it was one of the two, but I am leaning towards the oil.
Ya'd think the oil breathers would build a lttle moisture.....eh, I don't know...
But, if it were true, the tank up front would be the mother ship of condesation... Think about it, the tank is never close to full, about half..... so the hot oil would cause some sorta sweat?
Maybe I am way off.... All I know is this is getting to be too much!
And obviously you nailed it from a glance.