DIY - Replacing Nokia Factory Amp (Hifi Option)
11-13-2010, 04:01 PM
#17
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e9stibi - Your solution is simply genious! I've been looking at the pics, very neat install. I'm not very handy with electronics though. Tell me when you are ready to do this for me and I'll ship my Hi-Fi enclosures to you and wire you the funds neccessary 
. 
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02-12-2012, 11:02 PM
#18
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Following e9stibi's guide closely, and after patiently answering all of my stupid questions I finally installed my upgrade last week. HUGE thanks goes out to e9stibi for collecting all this information for us - what a great place this is!! I live in Copenhagen, and I couldn't find a car-stereo shop with 993 experience (or previous 911 models for that matter), so this awesome thread made it possible for me to get my dream-setup.
Headunit - Becker Cascade Pro 7941 w. iPod module
Bought the unit a few months back and it's great, but while doing the speaker and amp upgrade I finally got to run the GPS and GSM antenna vires to the back of the car. It was much much easier than I expected (less than 1 hour job), and both the antennas gets perfect reception mounted under the rear shelf. Instead of mounting on the A-pillar or under the dash (front vent) I would recommend this solution to anyone. HU works with iPhone 4S over bluetooth, iPod Classic (160gb) and 2011 maps from Navteq.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-F4
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f4/default
It's not exactly cheap, but in my opinion it's the perfect amp for the 993. I couldnt find anything that matched the performance-to-size ratio of this amp (with 4-channels) and you can mount it in the opposite orientation of the Soundstream (with 0,3" to spare). This mounting-direction has the advantage that it's easy to access front (inputs) and rear (levels) to adjust things after installing the seat.
If you want to save some money, the 2-channel alternatives in the OPs guide are plenty! I had move the fader towards the front to even the sound center. My rear speakers are new (2012) org. HiFi-option speakers (For some reason they weighed noticeably more than the factory ones I took out and played much better).
Picture from my amp install:
Speakers - Pioneer 172PRS
http://www.pioneer.eu/dk/products/25...PRS/index.html
The popular Focals are not easy to come by in Europe, but the new Pioneer 172PRS was consitently recommended to me by HiFi geeks. I got a chance to hear them in a demo car and I was blown away by their crisp sound, perfect for the kind of music I prefer. Not cheap, but I got a very good 50% january-discount and bought them right on the spot!
I chose to ditch the HiFi-option door-boxes and install the speakers in the door with a VW mounting bracket that brings the speaker very close to the edge of the factory speaker cover - top priority for my install was 100% stock look.
Picture from my install (WIP):
The doorpockets was then padded with DynaMat:
This stuff is not for the weight-saving RS guys, but it has a tremendous effect on the sound and kills all vibrations. I tried installing the dynamat in the left side only at first and there was a night and day difference between the dynamat and non-dynamat side. Overall I think there is still a small weight reduction compared to the hifi enclosures.
Install
Pretty much a complete ripoff from e9stibi's guide. However instead of reusing the DIN plug line-wires we ran new RCA cables. 1,8m is too short and the next standard length was 3m, so they had to make new custom ones at 2,2m. Took one guy almost 2 hours to do all 8 plugs.
I wanted the power wire to be completely invisible in the front boot, so the two installers had to loosen 4 screws to the left of the fuse box to run the wire under the fuse box mounting plate. The power cable fuse was mounted in the front of the car completely invisible yet very accessible with the carpet out.
We cut the multiplug and used the wires (so it's not as easily reversable as e9stibi solution). With the wire diagrams in this thread it was very easy.
Hint: For people with the Nokia Phone Module it can be very difficult to find and access the wire-grommet to the front of the car, because it's hidden right behind the control module. As a HUGE bonus I discovered the wire from the stock nokia microphone (mounted behind the steering wheel) ended up here, with a microjack plug (not standard minijack). I connected that wire to my Becker HU and it worked straight away. I had given hope to install the becker microphone in that location due to the difficulty of running that wire under the instruments
Hope this helps and serves as a useable appendix to e9stibi's great guide.
Sound is at least twice as good, deep and loud as the nokia HiFi setup - worth every penny IMHO
Headunit - Becker Cascade Pro 7941 w. iPod module
Bought the unit a few months back and it's great, but while doing the speaker and amp upgrade I finally got to run the GPS and GSM antenna vires to the back of the car. It was much much easier than I expected (less than 1 hour job), and both the antennas gets perfect reception mounted under the rear shelf. Instead of mounting on the A-pillar or under the dash (front vent) I would recommend this solution to anyone. HU works with iPhone 4S over bluetooth, iPod Classic (160gb) and 2011 maps from Navteq.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-F4
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f4/default
It's not exactly cheap, but in my opinion it's the perfect amp for the 993. I couldnt find anything that matched the performance-to-size ratio of this amp (with 4-channels) and you can mount it in the opposite orientation of the Soundstream (with 0,3" to spare). This mounting-direction has the advantage that it's easy to access front (inputs) and rear (levels) to adjust things after installing the seat.
If you want to save some money, the 2-channel alternatives in the OPs guide are plenty! I had move the fader towards the front to even the sound center. My rear speakers are new (2012) org. HiFi-option speakers (For some reason they weighed noticeably more than the factory ones I took out and played much better).
Picture from my amp install:
Speakers - Pioneer 172PRS
http://www.pioneer.eu/dk/products/25...PRS/index.html
The popular Focals are not easy to come by in Europe, but the new Pioneer 172PRS was consitently recommended to me by HiFi geeks. I got a chance to hear them in a demo car and I was blown away by their crisp sound, perfect for the kind of music I prefer. Not cheap, but I got a very good 50% january-discount and bought them right on the spot!
I chose to ditch the HiFi-option door-boxes and install the speakers in the door with a VW mounting bracket that brings the speaker very close to the edge of the factory speaker cover - top priority for my install was 100% stock look.
Picture from my install (WIP):
The doorpockets was then padded with DynaMat:
This stuff is not for the weight-saving RS guys, but it has a tremendous effect on the sound and kills all vibrations. I tried installing the dynamat in the left side only at first and there was a night and day difference between the dynamat and non-dynamat side. Overall I think there is still a small weight reduction compared to the hifi enclosures.
Install
Pretty much a complete ripoff from e9stibi's guide. However instead of reusing the DIN plug line-wires we ran new RCA cables. 1,8m is too short and the next standard length was 3m, so they had to make new custom ones at 2,2m. Took one guy almost 2 hours to do all 8 plugs.
I wanted the power wire to be completely invisible in the front boot, so the two installers had to loosen 4 screws to the left of the fuse box to run the wire under the fuse box mounting plate. The power cable fuse was mounted in the front of the car completely invisible yet very accessible with the carpet out.
We cut the multiplug and used the wires (so it's not as easily reversable as e9stibi solution). With the wire diagrams in this thread it was very easy.
Hint: For people with the Nokia Phone Module it can be very difficult to find and access the wire-grommet to the front of the car, because it's hidden right behind the control module. As a HUGE bonus I discovered the wire from the stock nokia microphone (mounted behind the steering wheel) ended up here, with a microjack plug (not standard minijack). I connected that wire to my Becker HU and it worked straight away. I had given hope to install the becker microphone in that location due to the difficulty of running that wire under the instruments
Hope this helps and serves as a useable appendix to e9stibi's great guide.
Sound is at least twice as good, deep and loud as the nokia HiFi setup - worth every penny IMHO
The following users liked this post:
M. Schneider (08-26-2021)
06-30-2013, 06:26 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I have been mining for the information to update my system and have found lots of bits and pieces, but this is by far the best write up and answers almost all of my questions on one place. Thanks for taking to time to document it in such detail.
04-15-2015, 02:46 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Resurrecting this excellent and oft cited thread to confirm that the centre pin on the DIN plug IS switched power as e9stibi guessed.
It reads 0.1v when becker/porsche head unit is off, and ~12.5v when head unit is turned on. I soldered a separate wire to this pin for remote power on when building the DIN connector for my own install, avoiding running a separate remote power on wire from the head unit socket A, pin 7.
Whatever you do, don't use the nokian amp plug pin #13 (White/Red Speedo signal) for remote power, it is always on (3v) and will leave amp switched on, draining your battery. Ask me how I know.
2. DIN 8 pin female plug (270 degree, solder type) to build an adaptor from the grey DIN plug to RCA plugs for amp signal input. -> see picture 4 for details how the pinnumber relate to pin location
1 N/C
2 Red – Front left
3 Green – Front right
4 Black - Common
5 Yellow – Rear right
6 White – Rear left
7 N/C
8 ??? Most like 12V switched (did not use and measure because I ran extra cable)
It reads 0.1v when becker/porsche head unit is off, and ~12.5v when head unit is turned on. I soldered a separate wire to this pin for remote power on when building the DIN connector for my own install, avoiding running a separate remote power on wire from the head unit socket A, pin 7.
Whatever you do, don't use the nokian amp plug pin #13 (White/Red Speedo signal) for remote power, it is always on (3v) and will leave amp switched on, draining your battery. Ask me how I know.
2. DIN 8 pin female plug (270 degree, solder type) to build an adaptor from the grey DIN plug to RCA plugs for amp signal input. -> see picture 4 for details how the pinnumber relate to pin location
1 N/C
2 Red – Front left
3 Green – Front right
4 Black - Common
5 Yellow – Rear right
6 White – Rear left
7 N/C
8 ??? Most like 12V switched (did not use and measure because I ran extra cable)
04-15-2015, 11:00 AM
#21
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Power on/off details at HiFi option Noika amplifer
+1 Great thread ... moderator, this could be a Hifi enhancement staple.
Too funny, Having made the very same pin selection error ... the battery was less-than-zero dead after a week. Discharged! .. Yeah "ask me how I know" !
e9stibi - Thanks !
Too funny, Having made the very same pin selection error ... the battery was less-than-zero dead after a week. Discharged! .. Yeah "ask me how I know" !
e9stibi - Thanks !
Resurrecting this excellent and oft cited thread to confirm that the centre pin on the DIN plug IS switched power as e9stibi guessed.
It reads 0.1v when becker/porsche head unit is off, and ~12.5v when head unit is turned on. I soldered a separate wire to this pin for remote power on when building the DIN connector for my own install, avoiding running a separate remote power on wire from the head unit socket A, pin 7.
Whatever you do, don't use the nokian amp plug pin #13 (White/Red Speedo signal) for remote power, it is always on (3v) and will leave amp switched on, draining your battery. Ask me how I know.
It reads 0.1v when becker/porsche head unit is off, and ~12.5v when head unit is turned on. I soldered a separate wire to this pin for remote power on when building the DIN connector for my own install, avoiding running a separate remote power on wire from the head unit socket A, pin 7.
Whatever you do, don't use the nokian amp plug pin #13 (White/Red Speedo signal) for remote power, it is always on (3v) and will leave amp switched on, draining your battery. Ask me how I know.
04-15-2015, 08:37 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
My pleasure. After I was benefiting from this forum so much, I thought it was time to give back. I encourage all other users to do the same. There is a reason why RL is such a great place!
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M. Schneider (08-26-2021)
11-25-2022, 01:09 AM
#23
Now that it is 2022, almost 2023, resurrecting this thread in order to get some input on an AMP replacement.
After my original head unit quit, I purchased the Continental HU from Tore. I also have replaced the front door speakers with Dynaudio 3" mids, (thanks Mike Schneider) and purchased the JL 5.25 coaxial speakers and placed them in the original opening of the HiFi box. The rears are still original, (which I am inclined to replace them)...but some here have suggested leaving them disconnected. Undecided....
I believe the original Nokia AMP finally gave up the ship as the sound is currently at the "crappy" level on the listening scale.
I have the connector piece that will allow me to connect the new amp to the existing wiring harness under the seat.
Not having an in-depth knowledge of current tech, amps, bridging etc etc, I have spent the last few days trying to get a bit smarter on it all. It would be nice to have a "good sound" for around 4-800 bucks...maybe a bit more for a professional install too.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
This JL unit looks pretty solid: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/xd4...plifiers-98602
After my original head unit quit, I purchased the Continental HU from Tore. I also have replaced the front door speakers with Dynaudio 3" mids, (thanks Mike Schneider) and purchased the JL 5.25 coaxial speakers and placed them in the original opening of the HiFi box. The rears are still original, (which I am inclined to replace them)...but some here have suggested leaving them disconnected. Undecided....
I believe the original Nokia AMP finally gave up the ship as the sound is currently at the "crappy" level on the listening scale.
I have the connector piece that will allow me to connect the new amp to the existing wiring harness under the seat.
Not having an in-depth knowledge of current tech, amps, bridging etc etc, I have spent the last few days trying to get a bit smarter on it all. It would be nice to have a "good sound" for around 4-800 bucks...maybe a bit more for a professional install too.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
This JL unit looks pretty solid: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/xd4...plifiers-98602
Last edited by F18drvr; 11-25-2022 at 01:51 AM. Reason: more info to add...
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M. Schneider (11-28-2022)
11-28-2022, 12:41 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
I have its big brother - the XD600/6v2 - it's awesome. It will fit under the passenger seat- I had to take the cruise control module and zip tie it to the seat above the amp- there's plenty of room and it doesn't rub when the seat is in its lowest position. I run 2 8" focal subs, 2 A/D/S plates in the rear and Rockford Fosgate 5" with passive crossover to 1" dome tweaters. the sound is outstanding.
