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Need Brake Pad Replacement DIY advice

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Old 04-19-2009 | 02:08 AM
  #16  
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Success!

Got my putty knife to separate the pads from the sound dampers. Grabbed the backing plates and pulled the pads. Stuck the pads in sideways to push back the pistons. Inserted the new sound dampers in place then slid new pads in. Put the retaining clip in place and done.

And without the need for a speculum!
Old 07-13-2009 | 11:32 PM
  #17  
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[QUOTE=993Coupe;6484182]I just did this myself (twice). I installed new rotors and pads. I was getting the awful squeal and hoped to fix this. I used Porsche rotors with Pagid pads. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of big channel lock pliers. You will be able to squeeze back the pads just fine. Use rags not to scratch the calipers. Mine had the stupid vibration dampers so I just took off the calipers and removed the old pads from the inside. Once I got everything back on, I had an even WORSE squeal. It was really bad (also embarrassing). So I did myself a favor and ordered PORSCHE PADS WITH THE VIBRATION DAMPERS and presto.......no squeal!!!

QUOTE]

Hi - I'm just ordering parts to do my front brakes. When you say you orderd Porsche PADS with the VIBRATION DAMPERS... - can you clarify. Do you mean that you ordered new spider/disc things that go into the pistons; or is there some other vibration damper that I need to order in addition to the spider/disc things?

Thanks
Old 07-14-2009 | 06:04 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by dmcentee
Hi - I'm just ordering parts to do my front brakes. When you say you orderd Porsche PADS with the VIBRATION DAMPERS... - can you clarify. Do you mean that you ordered new spider/disc things that go into the pistons; or is there some other vibration damper that I need to order in addition to the spider/disc things?

Thanks
You've got it right. He's talking about the spider/disc things. Just order the OEM bits like from the factory and you'll be happy with it. I'm at 10k miles or so on my new rotors, pads, & spiders and NO squeal. (ok, rarely a little tiny bit that is quickly remedied by the "Italian Brake Job"....ie a few quick hard stops from 50+mph.)

Like people have said, pry back the calipers BEFORE removing anything, so you are prying on old pads/rotors. Just do it S-L-O-W-L-Y to make sure you don't overflow the fluid reservoir.

Enjoy the fun of working on the car!
Old 07-14-2009 | 11:50 AM
  #19  
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The trick is to crack a bleed nipple (after attaching a tube with catch bottle) then you don't need any tools to retract the pistons. Just pull the pads halfway out then rock them back and forth to push the pistons back into the calipers. Done. Or use the long arm of the channel locks (that you just used to remove the spring clips).
Old 07-14-2009 | 01:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
The trick is to crack a bleed nipple (after attaching a tube with catch bottle) then you don't need any tools to retract the pistons.
I agree with Eric. Probably a good time to change the brake fluid as well. You don't want to be pushing that dirty used brake fluid in your calipers back up the line and into the master cylinder when you retract the pistons......
Old 07-15-2009 | 02:05 AM
  #21  
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Its a definate splurge, but every time I use this tool I smile:

http://eagleday.com/brmato.html

And who knows, I may do the 25hrs of Thunder Hill some day... ;-)

-reiner
Old 07-15-2009 | 02:44 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ReinerFink
Its a definate splurge, but every time I use this tool I smile:
http://eagleday.com/brmato.html
At $239.95, I hope you are kidding.... A screwdriver or a pair of channel locks is a VERY cost effective solution comparatively!

Or, maybe the smile is worth it to you...




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