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Old 04-14-2009, 04:24 PM
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ship4u
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Default stripped lug nut

Hi folks,
Some bonehead at a top Porsche service department in Atlanta, Georgia, stripped the outer hex walls of one of the lug nuts when changing my tires. I need to remove the tire because it is loosing air, but a lug wrench will not do anything....the lug nut is completley smooth round.
The wheels are the original cup wheels, in which the lug nut is deeply recessed. So there is no way to use any other type of wrench to grab and loosen the lug nut.
Any idea?
Thanks,
Don
Old 04-14-2009, 05:14 PM
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g_murray
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Buy a low-grade/crappy lug-nut wrench from your local pep-boyz / Autozone, etc.

Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)

Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)

Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')

With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.

Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.

When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.

The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.

Good luck!

Gerry
Old 04-14-2009, 05:21 PM
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bart1
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The above sounds like a good idea.

Or maybe something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109390025 or http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...rd=damaged+nut

94 ft-lb is correct. I wouldn't put any sort of lube or anti-seize on.
Old 04-14-2009, 05:40 PM
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AOW162435
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Or get an 18mm, 12-point, deep socket and hammer it onto the offending lug nut. The stock size is 19mm, so this may work.


Andreas
Old 04-14-2009, 05:44 PM
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jimq
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
Or get an 18mm, 12-point, deep socket and hammer it onto the offending lug nut. The stock size is 19mm, so this may work.


Andreas
Or take it back to the dealer and tell them to fix what they broke
Old 04-14-2009, 05:46 PM
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bart1
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I made a shop give me $90 recently from a similar experience. They told me two conflicting lies, which I caught them in, and told them to pick thier story. One was free to them, one cost $90. They chose wrong.
Old 04-14-2009, 05:51 PM
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cy7878
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Are you sure you're not just talking about the wheel lock?
Old 04-14-2009, 05:56 PM
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boulderbobo
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Originally Posted by g_murray
Buy a low-grade/crappy lug-nut wrench from your local pep-boyz / Autozone, etc.

Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)

Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)

Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')

With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.

Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.

When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.

The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.

Good luck!

Gerry

This sounds like "real life experience" talkin
Old 04-14-2009, 06:47 PM
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944/951guy
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
Or get an 18mm, 12-point, deep socket and hammer it onto the offending lug nut. The stock size is 19mm, so this may work.


Andreas
Cheapest and easiest way.
When I buy parts cars I always end up having wheel locks without a key to take the wheels off and now that I have gained experiance i just hammer on a socket and the locks come right out, BUT you have to pick the right socket and do it carefully because you will only have 1 chance and can break the lug nut.
Old 04-14-2009, 06:53 PM
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daltvater
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Originally Posted by cy7878
Are you sure you're not just talking about the wheel lock?
I was thinking the same thing. That would be my guess.
Old 04-14-2009, 07:07 PM
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Can someone post a pic of the wheel lock and key? I'd do it but I won't get to go home till tomorrow. But this thread has me curious.
Old 04-14-2009, 07:11 PM
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:17 PM
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Awsome, thanks. That's what I think mine also looks like. Hope the OP is looking as well.
Old 04-14-2009, 07:19 PM
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matt777
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There are special hammer on sockets available for removing stripped nuts. Perhaps a 3/4" would work. The other alternative is to weld some kind of nut on top of the wheel nut. I'm not sure what alloy the nuts are made of or how weldable they are though. The rear nuts might be hard to get at.
Old 04-14-2009, 07:38 PM
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kjr914
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Originally Posted by matt777
....
I'm not sure what alloy the nuts are made of or how weldable they are though.
Aluminum. They are super light....(almost seem a little too light considering they hold the wheels on...)

Originally Posted by daltvater
Top is regular lug nut, bottom one (round looking) is the special keyed lug nut.


Since this is a 'stealership' that f'ed it up....take it back to them to fix. And give them enough guilt about it to get something good out of it...and more than just your lug nut fixed. Just tell them this is the last visit you'll make to their service dept...

Or....after re-reading your post..... did you mistake the keyed lugnut for a stripped lugnut??


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