stripped lug nut
#1
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Hi folks,
Some bonehead at a top Porsche service department in Atlanta, Georgia, stripped the outer hex walls of one of the lug nuts when changing my tires. I need to remove the tire because it is loosing air, but a lug wrench will not do anything....the lug nut is completley smooth round.
The wheels are the original cup wheels, in which the lug nut is deeply recessed. So there is no way to use any other type of wrench to grab and loosen the lug nut.
Any idea?
Thanks,
Don
Some bonehead at a top Porsche service department in Atlanta, Georgia, stripped the outer hex walls of one of the lug nuts when changing my tires. I need to remove the tire because it is loosing air, but a lug wrench will not do anything....the lug nut is completley smooth round.
The wheels are the original cup wheels, in which the lug nut is deeply recessed. So there is no way to use any other type of wrench to grab and loosen the lug nut.
Any idea?
Thanks,
Don
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Buy a low-grade/crappy lug-nut wrench from your local pep-boyz / Autozone, etc.
Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)
Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)
Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')
With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.
Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.
When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.
The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.
Good luck!
Gerry
Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)
Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)
Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')
With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.
Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.
When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.
The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.
Good luck!
Gerry
#3
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The above sounds like a good idea.
Or maybe something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109390025 or http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...rd=damaged+nut
94 ft-lb is correct. I wouldn't put any sort of lube or anti-seize on.
Or maybe something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=109390025 or http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...rd=damaged+nut
94 ft-lb is correct. I wouldn't put any sort of lube or anti-seize on.
#5
Burgled
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#6
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I made a shop give me $90 recently from a similar experience. They told me two conflicting lies, which I caught them in, and told them to pick thier story. One was free to them, one cost $90. They chose wrong.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Buy a low-grade/crappy lug-nut wrench from your local pep-boyz / Autozone, etc.
Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)
Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)
Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')
With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.
Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.
When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.
The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.
Good luck!
Gerry
Get some industrial strength glue and follow the directions. (Often with 'glues' you need to put the glue onto BOTH parts, and wait until they are BOTH 'tacky'.)
Place the lug-nut wrench onto the effed-up lug nut. (Remember to swab the lug-nut and wrench with alcohol (then let dry) so as to remove ALL traces of grease, etc. BEFORE you put glue on the surfaces!)
Let the glue do its job. (several hours to REALLY get a 'hold')
With the car still on the ground, 'tap' the wrench with a good hammer (anti-clockwise) so as to 'break' the seal.
Once you have the lug-nut 'moving' -- you may have to put the car on a jack so as to give yourself some 'additional clearance' so as to fully rotate it all the way around.
When you have the errant lug-nut 'out' and 'off' -- discard both -- they have served their purpose.
The lug-nuts should be torqued to 94 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong folks) when the threads are 'dry' and to a lesser value if you have put any lubricant on them.
Good luck!
Gerry
This sounds like "real life experience" talkin
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#9
Three Wheelin'
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When I buy parts cars I always end up having wheel locks without a key to take the wheels off and now that I have gained experiance i just hammer on a socket and the locks come right out, BUT you have to pick the right socket and do it carefully because you will only have 1 chance and can break the lug nut.
#14
Drifting
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There are special hammer on sockets available for removing stripped nuts. Perhaps a 3/4" would work. The other alternative is to weld some kind of nut on top of the wheel nut. I'm not sure what alloy the nuts are made of or how weldable they are though. The rear nuts might be hard to get at.
#15
Drifting
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Top is regular lug nut, bottom one (round looking) is the special keyed lug nut.
Since this is a 'stealership' that f'ed it up....take it back to them to fix. And give them enough guilt about it to get something good out of it...and more than just your lug nut fixed. Just tell them this is the last visit you'll make to their service dept...
Or....after re-reading your post..... did you mistake the keyed lugnut for a stripped lugnut??
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