KMASS993

Hey Guys,

So I have been trucking along however have been delayed as I wait for more parts from Sunset... I ordered all new hardware for the brake and suspension reinstall (in line with the 993 repair manual) as well as all new pads, rotors, tie-rods and rear toe control arms. Hopefully it should be in this weekend so I can get started.

Suspension & Brakes

Last weekend I pulled the tie-rods (one boot was torn, so I decided to replace 2), rear toe control arms (torn boots see picture) and old suspension out. The suspension was a little bit tricky especially when it got to the front bolts. I tried clamping the shock shaft, holding a socket, nothing worked. Finally the bulb went off and got the Dremel out with a deep socket 21mm and made by own Hazet socket, it took maybe 10 minutes and everyone should do this instead of shelling out the $62 for the original (see picture below). The tie-rods are a complete DIY and all you need is a little arm strength and a tie-rod puller to get these out.

After getting all the old garbage off the car I cleaned up the suspension parts I would be reusing and put the HD's together with my new M030 springs. I followed VBob's and the DIY instructions on here (both great by the way) and set the ride height to ROW M030 spec.

As we stand right now there are two empty holes in the front and a not so empty hole in the back just waiting to be filled with new suspension. I bought a digital torque wrench from Northern tool to help put this baby back together. It's going to be a full weekend if all these parts come together. The calipers are currently down at Powdertech plus being painted and I am hoping to have those back next week.

Interior

I also got to dyeing my seats as well as the cover that goes on the top of the dash and the CCU face. The dash piece and CCU face have bothered me for a while as they have both turned brown. They were both pretty easy to do and the CCU comes apart and the numbers around the ***** are actually not part of the cover, which makes it easy to paint with surflex. (FYI the temp sensor was so gunked with dirt it was unbelievable! Maybe the autofan will work a little better.) The seats didn't come out as I wanted to and I am thinking of what to do next (possibly start over or spray).. however I am going to leave that until the end.

I also tore out by back seats as well as the seat belts and mounting hardware as I am now putting in an RSD. If nothing comes this weekend I do have the RSD arriving on Saturday that I can mess around with!

I keep getting the comment that parts are coming off the car... hopefully I will be able to get some back on it soon!

Thanks everyone that has answered my questions as I go along!

Regards,

Kevin

Dudley

Kevin,

Those nasty interior pieces that are "faded brown" are actually the stock color. I bought these same pieces new from Porsche. The color matched the original pieces.

Original color aside, I think the pieces painted black would look very nice.

KMASS993

Dave,

Well that stinks, looks like I will be Surflexing all the pieces! I think it absolutely ruins the interior of the car when they have that brown tint. I might go custom carbon but I am undecided. Thanks for the info.

simpsoap

when are you getting your calipers back so you can post some pics What color did you decide? Where they originally black?

I'm going to get my done next winter, my wife told me I couldn't do it all now I was quoted $75/each as well, and didn't have to remove the pistons either!

Andy

KMASS993

I sure will, they called me today and supposedly they will be here by next weekend.

KMASS993

Here is a pic of the dirty temp sensor. This is already after cleaning some stuff out of it.

coltj

The shop is West Auto Body, Cochituate St in Natick. And +1 for them. Did my front end respray 2 years ago. Talk to Barry (508) 655-5677‎. No affiliation, etc....

BTW, Jerry & EPE moved about 1 mile further west on Rte 135. Very nice shop.

I've heard from several good sources that Dick's Auto Body in Sommerville is the best shop in the Boston area. High end prices and they can be backed up though.

95_993

coltj,

Thanks for the info. Considering a respray of bumper cover due to some rash. Still not bad, so I am on the fence. If I do it, I'll pull the trigger on clear bra as well.

KMASS993

Hey Guys,

So I am set to start assembly tomorrow night and hopefully be finished on Sunday (with exception of calipers which are arriving next week). As it stands I have a big hole in the front as I have removed everything, including tierods, A arms, wheel carrier etc. My question for you that have a lot of experience on suspension/front end rebuilds is what should I start with first? I was thinking the following order:

1. Tierods
2. Sway bars
3. Struts and springs
4. Wheel carrier
5. A-arm
6. Sway bar links

If any of you would recommend a better order, please let me know. Thanks!

Kevin

KMASS993

Hey guys,

Got my calipers in and for those of you that were wondering how the came out... they look awesome... see pics below

AOW162435

Very nice! What process did you use?


Andreas

zone5

How do you get the temp sensor out??

KMASS993

Andreas,

They were bead blasted then powder coated. I had too many other things going on with the car to try it myself so I sent them down to Powdertech Plus in FL. The total with shipping was $335.

KMASS993

Zone,

The temp sensor is inside the CCU unit. Here is a DIY.

1. Remove your CCU
2. Pop of the front of the CCU using a flathead to push the black tabs that hold the plastic cover on.
3. After pushing all the tabs in, carefully remove the face, (I believe there is a wire connected, remove it).
4. After the face is removed it is still two pieces the black plastic you see when looking at it in the car and the control ***** and circuit board behind.
5. Take off all the ***** and then as in 3 above push in the clear plastic tabs that sit in the circuit board. The circuit board and controls should separate from the black plastic cover.
6. The temp sensor sits in a tube on the black plastic piece. It sits in there and is easily pulled out. Be careful doing this as the wires can separate from the circuit board (I broke one and had to re solder).
7. Clean the temp sensor and reinstall in reverse.

Good luck (its pretty easy)

KMASS993

I painted the logo onto the calipers and mounted them. Here are some before and after shots. I used the stencils from the company referenced on p-car.com (forgot the name) and they were pretty good. I used white high heat engine enamel and sprayed 5-6 thin coats. When peeling the stencils off there were a few nicks into the lettering but only something you would notice if you were right up on the wheels. Def a job that requires patience as putting them on and taking them off is a chore.

I also got to the upper spark plugs and left lower valve cover. The spark plugs weren't as hard as I thought and were relatively easy with the right extensions. The only way to go is a good spark plug socket (with grommet to hold onto plug), a 2" extension and a universal joint. For a wrench, use a Stanley rotator ratchet as there isn't a lot of room and the handle makes it easy to get the wrench torqued. Another 2" extension is needed here or there.

I am off next week for the Utah Grand Prix... but by the time I get back I am hoping to the the leather dash and console (black with red stitch) as well as getting my new CDR 220 installed. I feel I am about half way there with a month and a half to go. I really want to be able to drive it over to the Northeast Grand Prix in July. If anyone has any questions on any of the above feel free to PM me.

Kevin