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Any alignment suggestions for mostly-track duty car?
Now that I have camber plates installed my alignment options are wide open, so I could use some suggestions. My car is mostly for the track, but I do drive to and from, plus some weekend trips. On track I run Toyo R888.
I'm planning around -2.5 deg camber in front, but what about the rear? More? Same?
For caster & toe, I'll just use RS alignment specs. KT will be set with the Autometrics gauge. Thanks for any tips!
I'd suggest -2.2 to -2.5 for the rear. Toe in front to .04-.06 Total toe IN. Rear .08-.11 Toe In a side. Car will be stable to drive on the street, but will handle well at the track. Also the lack of toe will GREATLY extend your tire wear. Most people think that negative camber is what kills a tire. Wrong. It is the TOE with the camber that does it.
Here is a thought provoking exercise. Roll a tire/wheel down the road. Rolls fine. THink if it was slighly tilted to one side (camber). It would still roll fine. Now think of the tire pointing a little to one side or the other (toe), but forced to roll straight. It has to scrub its way down the road in order to move in a straight line. That is what toe does. It has benefits, but too much of anything is bad.....
As a track only car, then zero is great. Since he drives on the street, a little (and that is a little) will keep you from tramlining everywhere and will make for a more enjoyable street experience. Also factors like bushing materials, driver preferences, etc factor into settings for race cars...
Took the words right out of my mouth Bob. I was going to say, that with rubber suspension points, zero toe works well. When the car is under braking load, the front rubber pieces tend to toe the front end out making anything dialed in for toe, that much more. And correct me if I'm wrong but if the front to rear camber settings are to far from one another the car tends to be darty
Took the words right out of my mouth Bob. I was going to say, that with rubber suspension points, zero toe works well. When the car is under braking load, the front rubber pieces tend to toe the front end out making anything dialed in for toe, that much more. And correct me if I'm wrong but if the front to rear camber settings are to far from one another the car tends to be darty
Last edited by viperbob; Mar 18, 2009 at 07:11 PM.
Thanks for all the great comments guys. Viperbob - I was a little surprised to hear you say LESS camber in the rear, but I suppose too much rear camber would be bad since I've got around 335 rwhp on just the rears.
Originally Posted by Sachin Misra
Sorry to hijack your thread Eric, but do you still have those seats available?
Sure, I just sent you an email to your hotmail account.
most of the track cars use LESS negative camber in the rear. Especially with 335s... You need as much negative in the front as possible, and a little less in the rear... Take care and good luck
Thanks for all the great comments guys. Viperbob - I was a little surprised to hear you say LESS camber in the rear, but I suppose too much rear camber would be bad since I've got around 335 rwhp on just the rears.
Sure, I just sent you an email to your hotmail account.
What did you end up using for KT w/ the Autometrics gauge? That's the next job here
I need to get the alignment this week, but we'll do the same as last time, which was something like "4" on the scale for both sides. Or maybe it was 3, I forgot. Not sure if that's as low as he could go. There was a good discussion of target readings in your Rear Suspension thread.
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