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Motive bleeder vs. regulated air w/Motive adapter

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Old 11-16-2008, 10:42 PM
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grwoolf
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Default Motive bleeder vs. regulated air w/Motive adapter

I am planning to bleed my brakes and clutch this week and it sounds like pressure bleeding is the way to go. I have always used the pedal pump w/helper method in the past.

There are a lot of people who recommend the Motive bleeder, but I thought it might be easier to just buy the Motive European car adapter that goes to the resevior and hook a regulated/dry air supply directly to the adapter. Obviously, this would require me remove the cap and refill the brake resevior periodically so it doesn't go dry, but it sounds like a lot of people don't fill the motive bleeder with fluid either. I don't like the idea of filling the motive bleeder up with fluid since it seems like it would require some extra clean up and I would worry about micro bubbles as the fluid is pumped around.

Is there any downside to using the 'shop air' approach I am proposing? Has anyone else tried this with success or problems? I already have a mini regulator and a device that removes all moisture and oil from my air (I use it for my paint guns).

Also, has anybody built their own adapter? The motive one is only $20, but I'd rather not wait for shipping if it is easy to piece something together with off the shelf parts.
Old 11-16-2008, 11:30 PM
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Don Plumley
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IMHO, the downside is having to stop and refill the reservoir when you are doing to thorough bleed. Having a regulator that you trust to hold 15psi (and the dryer is a very good idea!) and a valve to release the pressure (you don't want to unscrew the cap under pressure) would work. But you will have to be very cautious not to let the level drop too far.

I've used a Motive bleeder for 8 years by putting a can of fluid in the device. A couple of paper towels to wipe out and it's done. No big in my book.

As far ask making your own, if you have a spare cap and can put a good fitting on it, it's not a big deal. Having the hose be able to rotate (that's the plus of the "Black Label" product) is really helpful.
Old 11-16-2008, 11:56 PM
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2ndof2
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At about 45 bucks or so IMO the Motive bleeder is def the way 2 go. Very easy to use.
Old 11-17-2008, 01:27 AM
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grwoolf
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I went ahead and ordered the black label bleeder, thanks. I may still end up modding it to allow a connection to my air source (and skip the pumping). With the full kit, I should have all the parts required and also have the option of filling the bleeder with fluid or just filling via the brake resevior.
Old 11-17-2008, 11:11 AM
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matt777
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You might have to look around to find a regulator with a 0-15 psi range. I doubt this is a run of the mill item at most tool places.

ps I found that one of those cheap hand pump type vacuum bleeders worked well on the clutch slave cylinder. I now have one of the Black Label Motiv units so I'm not sure which I would use for just the clutch.
Old 11-17-2008, 12:52 PM
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grwoolf
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Originally Posted by matt777
You might have to look around to find a regulator with a 0-15 psi range. I doubt this is a run of the mill item at most tool places.

ps I found that one of those cheap hand pump type vacuum bleeders worked well on the clutch slave cylinder. I now have one of the Black Label Motiv units so I'm not sure which I would use for just the clutch.

I've got one of those mini regulators that is installed right at the inlet of an hvlp spray gun and it can be precisely adjusted at low pressures.
Old 11-17-2008, 01:31 PM
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Garth S
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Here's how it works with a DIY Pressure Bleeder using shop air .....
Old 11-17-2008, 01:36 PM
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Wachuko
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Be sure to also get one of these (10.00 at Sears)

Old 11-17-2008, 03:12 PM
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jhummel68
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I flushed my brakes and clutch a couple of weeks ago. First, I siphoned the reservoir and refilled with fresh fluid. I elected to go the route of keeping the Motive bleeder dry and I was able to bleed two calipers before needing to refill the reservoir. I used two tubes at each caliper simultaneously. I began by opening the inboard bleed first until I got clean fluid (brake line now has clean fluid). Then, with the inboard still open, I opened the outboard (both open for a few seconds). Finally, I closed the inboard and left the outboard open until I got clean fluid (caliper now clean) then closed it – on to the next one.

Instead of clamping the vent tube on ’95, I plugged the end of the vent tube where it exits the car. It is located just in front of the jack point behind the left front wheel. It barely sticks out from below the wheel well liner. This way I didn’t have to buy a tool and I’m not trying to crimp a rubber tube that may be brittle. It held just fine.

When you bleed the clutch, remember the pick up in the reservoir for the clutch is close to the top so the reservoir needs to be FULL. If it gets down to the low mark on the reservoir you will be introducing air into the system. I found this out the hard way!

The whole process took me about an hour plus another half-hour because I screwed-up bleeding the clutch. This is a great DIY especially with the Motive bleeder. Used right at one liter for the whole flush including the screw-up.



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