FS DAS rollbar (993 Sunroof Coupe)
#1
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For sale is my 993 DAS rollbar, purchased less than 1 year ago. The bar is powder coated black with welded harness guide loops and welded Brey Krause seat-back brace mounts. Installation hardware included.
The bar costs $995 direct from CDOC, plus $150 ($75/ea) for seat-back brace mounts and $300 ($150/ea) for the Brey Krause braces. Then add on the cost of welding and powder coating...
The I/O port camera mount is not included in the sale (I just got lazy and didn't have time to remove it for the pictures).
I'm asking $800 for the bar alone ($1000 and I'll throw in the BK seat back braces as well). I'm going to give preference to anyone willing to pick-up locally (Philly burbs). I'll also assist with installation for any local buyers. Payment will be expected within 24 hours via Paypal.
The bar costs $995 direct from CDOC, plus $150 ($75/ea) for seat-back brace mounts and $300 ($150/ea) for the Brey Krause braces. Then add on the cost of welding and powder coating...
The I/O port camera mount is not included in the sale (I just got lazy and didn't have time to remove it for the pictures).
I'm asking $800 for the bar alone ($1000 and I'll throw in the BK seat back braces as well). I'm going to give preference to anyone willing to pick-up locally (Philly burbs). I'll also assist with installation for any local buyers. Payment will be expected within 24 hours via Paypal.
#4
Drifting
#5
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Well, in preparation for the body work that's scheduled this friday, I had to remove the seats, bar and the rear interior panels. Once I got started, I just got a bit overly enthusiastic (see photos). Now, there's no turning back.
I'm definitely not ready to race yet... but I may try my hand at time trialing next season. It was a perfect time to do the cage, while everything is gutted and since we're already going to be doing some paintwork.
I did get a rule clarification from the PCA scruts regarding interior panels, and it appears that they are okay with removing the rear deck and quarter trim panels as long as they are all covered with carpeting.
Initially, I tried to remove all that gunky adhesive (what a PITA). The pictures reflect about 8 hours of work. I figure it would take at least another 8 hours to get the remainder of the adhesive off (but I threw in the towel and bought an appbiz carpet kit last week).
I'm definitely not ready to race yet... but I may try my hand at time trialing next season. It was a perfect time to do the cage, while everything is gutted and since we're already going to be doing some paintwork.
I did get a rule clarification from the PCA scruts regarding interior panels, and it appears that they are okay with removing the rear deck and quarter trim panels as long as they are all covered with carpeting.
Initially, I tried to remove all that gunky adhesive (what a PITA). The pictures reflect about 8 hours of work. I figure it would take at least another 8 hours to get the remainder of the adhesive off (but I threw in the towel and bought an appbiz carpet kit last week).
#6
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Piper is a great choice. I am really happy with my cage and their work, although I have yet to test the integrity. Let us know what they do with the sunroof. I've seen one pretty cool solution from them and am curious if they have any other tricks up their sleeve.
Are you going with NASCAR bars?
Are you going with NASCAR bars?
#7
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Despite the fact that I've committed to sacrificing this car to the track gods.... I still want to retain my window mechanism. I'm going with x-bars and cup-car style gussets. They had an interesting proposition regarding the sunroof, which essentially involved gutting the mechanism, removing the panel, and then pop-rivetting an aluminum panel onto the roof. I'd like to keep a relatively stockish appearance to the exterior and wasn't sure that the PCA scrutes would approve of the non-stock panel, so I'm having them gut the sunroof and then weld the stock panel back in place. Everything else should be based on the set-up they did for you.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
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#8
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For sale is my 993 DAS rollbar, purchased less than 1 year ago. The bar is powder coated black with welded harness guide loops and welded Brey Krause seat-back brace mounts. Installation hardware included.
The bar costs $995 direct from CDOC, plus $150 ($75/ea) for seat-back brace mounts and $300 ($150/ea) for the Brey Krause braces. Then add on the cost of welding and powder coating...
<snip>
The bar costs $995 direct from CDOC, plus $150 ($75/ea) for seat-back brace mounts and $300 ($150/ea) for the Brey Krause braces. Then add on the cost of welding and powder coating...
<snip>
nice hardware
fair price.
good luck.
Craig
#9
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Despite the fact that I've committed to sacrificing this car to the track gods.... I still want to retain my window mechanism. I'm going with x-bars and cup-car style gussets. They had an interesting proposition regarding the sunroof, which essentially involved gutting the mechanism, removing the panel, and then pop-rivetting an aluminum panel onto the roof. I'd like to keep a relatively stockish appearance to the exterior and wasn't sure that the PCA scrutes would approve of the non-stock panel, so I'm having them gut the sunroof and then weld the stock panel back in place. Everything else should be based on the set-up they did for you.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
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As for the carpet, I can only imagine you would have to do that afterwards. I can't see how welding a cage is possible with the mats in place (??). But you might want to test fit the mats first just to pin-point the areas where the cage is going through the mat (where you need to cut holes). I think that part would be challenging with the cage already fitted.. Or are you not welding?
I want to know more about the sunroof delete solution. I would think weling the stock panel back in place after gutting the mechanism would make for a much cleaner install. AFAIK, it would look just like a sunroof deleted car from the outside? I have heard that the real weight does not sit in the mechanism itself, but in the inner structure of the roof with all the sliders etc. So a lot of gutting involved (messy job) if you really want to save weight.
Moreover, did they come up with an estimated pricetag for the sunroof delete? How many labour hours required? I assume you would also replace the headliner while you are at it?
Looking forward to the final result
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#10
Drifting
#11
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I'm interested in the sunroof delete $. Myself
#12
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Despite the fact that I've committed to sacrificing this car to the track gods.... I still want to retain my window mechanism. I'm going with x-bars and cup-car style gussets. They had an interesting proposition regarding the sunroof, which essentially involved gutting the mechanism, removing the panel, and then pop-rivetting an aluminum panel onto the roof. I'd like to keep a relatively stockish appearance to the exterior and wasn't sure that the PCA scrutes would approve of the non-stock panel, so I'm having them gut the sunroof and then weld the stock panel back in place. Everything else should be based on the set-up they did for you.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
I couldn't tell from your photos, what did you do for seat back braces (brey krause, or did they fab something for you)? Also, wondering how hard it will be to get the seats out after the cage is in. I want to install a carpet kit and was wondering if it would be best to do before or after the cage goes in.
-I have the B-K seatback brace. Piper just welded it on.
-I can easily get my seats in and out of the cage and have done so more times than I care to remember.
-Unless your carpet is grey, I'd leave the OEM stuff in after having ripped out as much insulation as possible. I did exactly that before the car went to Piper. How much weight will the RS carpeting save? Since racing is on your horizon, just realize that the weight will have to go back in, even if the RS carpet saves avoirdupois.
Thanks! Me, too!!!!
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#13
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I know, Bill, but, really, how much weight are we talking about here and how much of a difference will distributing it really make in terms of a tangible difference in lap times? I would guess, and it's just a guess, that even if you could save a whopping eight pounds (amd that would be extremely generous) of carpet weight (no insulation) six inches above the floorpan, I submit that that weight difference, even if you were to move it to the nose of the car (keep in mind that PCA requires all ballast to reside in the driver/passenger compartment of the car, so, realistically, you would be moving the eight pounds six inches lower and maybe two feet further forward at best), would not make a difference in lap times at the level of driving that the average club racer is doing. Heck, I would find it hard to believe that Patrick Long or Wolf Henzler would be able to turn better lap times in a car that has had that weight distributed in this way.
I say this because there have been many times that I have thrown in a 30 or 60 lb sandbag as ballast for an enduro where I knew I was going to be near empty at the end. In case I am weighed by the scrutes, I wanted to make sure that I could make weight. My lap times either did not suffer one bit or even got better. I sure could not tell a difference in handling with the extra 30/60 lbs. (Obviously, I'm just a wannabe club racer. I'm a decent driver, certainly not the next Alain Prost, but have gotten some fairly respectable results after having been coached by Chris Cervelli.)