Painting wheels (help!)
11-04-2008, 07:45 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Painting wheels (help!)
So after some success with my DIY wheel repair on the MY02's that are now on the car, I have decided to refinish and repaint the old wheels that came off the car which are turbo-look wheels. I've not done much body or paint work (not much = none other than the wheel repair stated above) and need to know what I'm looking at here.
So far I have sanded the wheels down very well (face, inner and outer barrel, lug holes, hub, valve stem hole) and repaired the curb rash.
I'm looking for suggestions in a couple of areas and thought maybe someone could help or send me in the right direction.
1. Materials: I want to match them to the color of the car (black). I assume I will need primer and of course paint and clear. What would be the best type of primer/paint to use for this application? (not spray paint)
2. Painting: I need a way to mount or hang the wheel on something to paint it. Ideas?
2a. Masking: Do I paint the whole wheel at one time or mask off the face or inner barrel and do one section at a time?
2b. Location: I do not have access to a paint booth. I will be using (or attempting to anyway) a regular spray gun and compressor, not a rattle can. What do you think would be the best in terms of location? My garage? Outside in the large side yard with the cars tucked safely away in the garage to avoid overspray?
3. Any other tips/tricks for paint work that would apply would be very much appreciated.
I have all I need to buff and finish them up after being cleared I think, but I'm certainly open to suggestions here as well.
Many thanks!
So far I have sanded the wheels down very well (face, inner and outer barrel, lug holes, hub, valve stem hole) and repaired the curb rash.
I'm looking for suggestions in a couple of areas and thought maybe someone could help or send me in the right direction.
1. Materials: I want to match them to the color of the car (black). I assume I will need primer and of course paint and clear. What would be the best type of primer/paint to use for this application? (not spray paint)
2. Painting: I need a way to mount or hang the wheel on something to paint it. Ideas?
2a. Masking: Do I paint the whole wheel at one time or mask off the face or inner barrel and do one section at a time?
2b. Location: I do not have access to a paint booth. I will be using (or attempting to anyway) a regular spray gun and compressor, not a rattle can. What do you think would be the best in terms of location? My garage? Outside in the large side yard with the cars tucked safely away in the garage to avoid overspray?
3. Any other tips/tricks for paint work that would apply would be very much appreciated.
I have all I need to buff and finish them up after being cleared I think, but I'm certainly open to suggestions here as well.
Many thanks!
11-04-2008, 09:28 PM
#2
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I just finished painting my MY02s with rattle cans. This is the fifth time I've done wheels, going back to classic black/anodized Fuchs. My results this time were the best yet.
I wasn't changing color, so I painted the wheels with the tires mounted. I let the air out to relax the beads just a bit, and tucked a row of 3X5 cards between the bead the and the wheel rim for masking--this worked quite well.
It takes me about three days to get it all done, if no repairs are required, and I don't goof up. Preparation is key, sanding with successively finer wet-or-dry sandpaper, finishing with 2000 grit. If you use lacquer you can shoot successive thin coats within minutes, but once you are done with the color coats, let the paint dry overnight before final sanding, then shoot the clear. This final sanding should be VERY light, so as not to burn through the color coat--lacquer is very thin.
The clear coat is what gives the gloss, and to me takes the most skill to apply. I try to shoot the clear wet enough so I see it "flash" into a shiny wet look, but not so wet that it sags or runs. This takes care to make sure the spraying distance, flow, and speed are correct.
I let my wheels cure for a week before rubbing them out. I used liquid rubbing compound and a microfiber towel, rubbing only the parts of the wheel where the paint felt rough. A coat of wax, and the wheels were ready to put back on the car.
I wouldn't paint outdoors. A little bit of wind, a bug, or bit of grass can ruin the paint. However, if you paint in the garage, put drop cloths on everything that needs protection--the overspray goes a lot farther than you think it would.
It may be better to paint the backside and inner barrel first, let that dry, and then paint the front. This will give you lots of practice, and if there are little blemishes, it isn't as important. I have had better results leaning the wheels against a wall at about a 45 degree angle, rather than laying them flat. When the wheels are flat, you have to spray from directly over them, and any little drip or sputter makes a blemish. I don't know about the spray gun you intend to use, but with a rattle can, it is more difficult to get uniform spray pattern spraying straight down.
I wasn't changing color, so I painted the wheels with the tires mounted. I let the air out to relax the beads just a bit, and tucked a row of 3X5 cards between the bead the and the wheel rim for masking--this worked quite well.
It takes me about three days to get it all done, if no repairs are required, and I don't goof up. Preparation is key, sanding with successively finer wet-or-dry sandpaper, finishing with 2000 grit. If you use lacquer you can shoot successive thin coats within minutes, but once you are done with the color coats, let the paint dry overnight before final sanding, then shoot the clear. This final sanding should be VERY light, so as not to burn through the color coat--lacquer is very thin.
The clear coat is what gives the gloss, and to me takes the most skill to apply. I try to shoot the clear wet enough so I see it "flash" into a shiny wet look, but not so wet that it sags or runs. This takes care to make sure the spraying distance, flow, and speed are correct.
I let my wheels cure for a week before rubbing them out. I used liquid rubbing compound and a microfiber towel, rubbing only the parts of the wheel where the paint felt rough. A coat of wax, and the wheels were ready to put back on the car.
I wouldn't paint outdoors. A little bit of wind, a bug, or bit of grass can ruin the paint. However, if you paint in the garage, put drop cloths on everything that needs protection--the overspray goes a lot farther than you think it would.
It may be better to paint the backside and inner barrel first, let that dry, and then paint the front. This will give you lots of practice, and if there are little blemishes, it isn't as important. I have had better results leaning the wheels against a wall at about a 45 degree angle, rather than laying them flat. When the wheels are flat, you have to spray from directly over them, and any little drip or sputter makes a blemish. I don't know about the spray gun you intend to use, but with a rattle can, it is more difficult to get uniform spray pattern spraying straight down.
11-04-2008, 10:10 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just finished painting my MY02s with rattle cans. This is the fifth time I've done wheels, going back to classic black/anodized Fuchs. My results this time were the best yet.
I wasn't changing color, so I painted the wheels with the tires mounted. I let the air out to relax the beads just a bit, and tucked a row of 3X5 cards between the bead the and the wheel rim for masking--this worked quite well.
It takes me about three days to get it all done, if no repairs are required, and I don't goof up. Preparation is key, sanding with successively finer wet-or-dry sandpaper, finishing with 2000 grit. If you use lacquer you can shoot successive thin coats within minutes, but once you are done with the color coats, let the paint dry overnight before final sanding, then shoot the clear. This final sanding should be VERY light, so as not to burn through the color coat--lacquer is very thin.
The clear coat is what gives the gloss, and to me takes the most skill to apply. I try to shoot the clear wet enough so I see it "flash" into a shiny wet look, but not so wet that it sags or runs. This takes care to make sure the spraying distance, flow, and speed are correct.
I let my wheels cure for a week before rubbing them out. I used liquid rubbing compound and a microfiber towel, rubbing only the parts of the wheel where the paint felt rough. A coat of wax, and the wheels were ready to put back on the car.
I wouldn't paint outdoors. A little bit of wind, a bug, or bit of grass can ruin the paint. However, if you paint in the garage, put drop cloths on everything that needs protection--the overspray goes a lot farther than you think it would.
It may be better to paint the backside and inner barrel first, let that dry, and then paint the front. This will give you lots of practice, and if there are little blemishes, it isn't as important. I have had better results leaning the wheels against a wall at about a 45 degree angle, rather than laying them flat. When the wheels are flat, you have to spray from directly over them, and any little drip or sputter makes a blemish. I don't know about the spray gun you intend to use, but with a rattle can, it is more difficult to get uniform spray pattern spraying straight down.
I wasn't changing color, so I painted the wheels with the tires mounted. I let the air out to relax the beads just a bit, and tucked a row of 3X5 cards between the bead the and the wheel rim for masking--this worked quite well.
It takes me about three days to get it all done, if no repairs are required, and I don't goof up. Preparation is key, sanding with successively finer wet-or-dry sandpaper, finishing with 2000 grit. If you use lacquer you can shoot successive thin coats within minutes, but once you are done with the color coats, let the paint dry overnight before final sanding, then shoot the clear. This final sanding should be VERY light, so as not to burn through the color coat--lacquer is very thin.
The clear coat is what gives the gloss, and to me takes the most skill to apply. I try to shoot the clear wet enough so I see it "flash" into a shiny wet look, but not so wet that it sags or runs. This takes care to make sure the spraying distance, flow, and speed are correct.
I let my wheels cure for a week before rubbing them out. I used liquid rubbing compound and a microfiber towel, rubbing only the parts of the wheel where the paint felt rough. A coat of wax, and the wheels were ready to put back on the car.
I wouldn't paint outdoors. A little bit of wind, a bug, or bit of grass can ruin the paint. However, if you paint in the garage, put drop cloths on everything that needs protection--the overspray goes a lot farther than you think it would.
It may be better to paint the backside and inner barrel first, let that dry, and then paint the front. This will give you lots of practice, and if there are little blemishes, it isn't as important. I have had better results leaning the wheels against a wall at about a 45 degree angle, rather than laying them flat. When the wheels are flat, you have to spray from directly over them, and any little drip or sputter makes a blemish. I don't know about the spray gun you intend to use, but with a rattle can, it is more difficult to get uniform spray pattern spraying straight down.
The splatters are one reason I want to stay away from the spray cans. I ran into an issue with it when redoing my MY02's and I want to see if I can eliminate any possibility.
The wheels do not have tires on them so thats not an issue thankfully.
11-05-2008, 09:55 AM
#4
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Here is my DIY writeup with lots of pics. Hope it helps...
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=rash
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=rash
11-05-2008, 12:31 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
How do you point the lug nut areas? Seems to me it would be hard to get paint down into those five deep holes without getting too much paint on the face of the wheel, especially if you're doing a color change.
11-05-2008, 08:01 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, I was slapped back into reality today when I got a quote of $220 for the required materials to do the job right and make sure they withstand heat/abuse. I certainly don't like these wheels that much.
Looks like I'll be trying the VHT gloss black and clear spray cans for $9/can.
Anyone ever use this stuff?
Looks like I'll be trying the VHT gloss black and clear spray cans for $9/can.
Anyone ever use this stuff?
11-06-2008, 01:02 AM
#7
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Hi Justin,
I'll bet you can do a nice job with the VHT. I would practice a bit, or paint the back of the rims first to get used to the spray pattern. I used Wurth spray paint cans to get the correct color of silver, but the color coat came with crappy little spray nozzles the size and shape of a pencil eraser. They caused problems spitting and sputtering until I wised up and swapped them for the nozzles on the clear coat--same brand but larger, looked like a newer design, worked much better.
I'll bet you can do a nice job with the VHT. I would practice a bit, or paint the back of the rims first to get used to the spray pattern. I used Wurth spray paint cans to get the correct color of silver, but the color coat came with crappy little spray nozzles the size and shape of a pencil eraser. They caused problems spitting and sputtering until I wised up and swapped them for the nozzles on the clear coat--same brand but larger, looked like a newer design, worked much better.
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11-06-2008, 10:44 AM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hi Justin,
I'll bet you can do a nice job with the VHT. I would practice a bit, or paint the back of the rims first to get used to the spray pattern. I used Wurth spray paint cans to get the correct color of silver, but the color coat came with crappy little spray nozzles the size and shape of a pencil eraser. They caused problems spitting and sputtering until I wised up and swapped them for the nozzles on the clear coat--same brand but larger, looked like a newer design, worked much better.
I'll bet you can do a nice job with the VHT. I would practice a bit, or paint the back of the rims first to get used to the spray pattern. I used Wurth spray paint cans to get the correct color of silver, but the color coat came with crappy little spray nozzles the size and shape of a pencil eraser. They caused problems spitting and sputtering until I wised up and swapped them for the nozzles on the clear coat--same brand but larger, looked like a newer design, worked much better.
How did you handle the lug holes, as mentioned above? I only resprayed the lip and part of a spoke on mine when I refinished them.
I read several reviews and Duplicolor has a wheel coating paint that uses a conical nozzle instead of a flat. I was going to just use the Duplicolor but they only have the black in a satin or flat, not gloss. I ended up getting the Duplicolor clear so I may swap nozzles. We'll see how it goes. I'll be sure to post updates for those who may be interested in the outcome.
11-06-2008, 11:56 AM
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Hi Justin,
I didn't change color, so I didn't need to paint deep in the lug holes. If changing color, you may need to shoot several very light coats into each lug hole to prevent runs. That part of the wheel is nearly invisible when the wheel is mounted, so the finish doesn't need to be perfect, just to hide the old color.
I didn't change color, so I didn't need to paint deep in the lug holes. If changing color, you may need to shoot several very light coats into each lug hole to prevent runs. That part of the wheel is nearly invisible when the wheel is mounted, so the finish doesn't need to be perfect, just to hide the old color.
11-06-2008, 01:54 PM
#10
Drifting
If you've never painted before, wheels are not what you want to start with. Issues like over spray and applying paint to difficult areas "wet" and not having the paint run are things experienced painters know how to achieve. Powdercoating is an alternative, the wheel is media blasted to remove the existing finish to bare metal, the wheel is charged electronically and the powder is sprayed with an opposite charge. The powder is drawn to the metal and coated very evenly. The wheel is then placed into an industrial oven where it is baked allowing the powder to melt and fuse into a single shell hardness. There are shops here locally that will do them for around $100 a piece.
