Build is complete (gratuitous pictures)
11-03-2008, 10:43 PM
#61
Jeff, sorry to see the mess. Glad you are ok.
Gert has the kits, pretty reasonably priced too
yes
Bill, how about a part number on the RS/CS hood prop and hardware? Thanks.
And are these okay to use with a stock steel hood?
11-04-2008, 04:00 AM
#62
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Jeff,
Man... I am so sorry to see that! Take a deep breath and get to work putting it back together... It's only steel and aluminum... Just be thankful YOU are ok!
Best of luck!
Man... I am so sorry to see that! Take a deep breath and get to work putting it back together... It's only steel and aluminum... Just be thankful YOU are ok!
Best of luck!
11-04-2008, 09:20 AM
#64
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I am so glad that my friend's computer won't allow me to load the pictures of your car because I'd be sick. I am so sorry about the damage to your car. I hope you can find a really good body shop, like a restoration garage, who can do impeccable work.
11-04-2008, 09:56 AM
#66
Rennlist Member
Been there... done that. I know exactly how you feel. It's hearbreaking. Bright side is that you have all winter to source used parts and get her back into shape by next season.
Despite the appearance, my "incident" at the Glen turned out to be primarily cosmetic (and some tweeked suspension bits). The rubber tire-wall marks polished out nicely. I was in a bit of a rush as it was mid season, but I ended up only having to buy a few new parts (front fender $1400 ouch!), but found used front bumper and decklid (in polar silver) from a guy locally for $500, sourced all the suspension components from a local guy who had upgraded to ERP links and Evo uprights on a low mileage 1996 993. I bought the entire suspension for $1,000, used the left side parts and and then sold what I didn't use for $500; found a rear corner light on ebay, headlight from rennlist, and then a few conveniently located race stickers... and I was back in the game (2 weeks later).
While the suspension was disassembled, I had monoballs pressed into all the rear links, upgraded to Tarrett adjustable rear toe links, added solid undercarriage mounts, solid tranny mount, and Wevo semisolid engine mounts. The guys at JIC were incredible to work with, as they overnighted me a new shock two days before my next event when we discovered that the adjustment **** had seized.
I took a lot of crap all season with the "phantom of the opera" car (looked great from one side and appalling from the other), but she runs better than ever.
Now that the season is over, I have time to get her back to her former glory (and begin phase III of upgrades). Finally have the body shop appointment to have the rear quarter fixed, elected to buy a new rear bumper (euro bumperrette delete from DPS), and will have the left fender and quarter and rear bumper painted. Will also fill in the bumperrette holes on the front bumper and delete the washer nozzles. Have an appt with Piper for later this month for full cage and sunroof delete.
Despite the appearance, my "incident" at the Glen turned out to be primarily cosmetic (and some tweeked suspension bits). The rubber tire-wall marks polished out nicely. I was in a bit of a rush as it was mid season, but I ended up only having to buy a few new parts (front fender $1400 ouch!), but found used front bumper and decklid (in polar silver) from a guy locally for $500, sourced all the suspension components from a local guy who had upgraded to ERP links and Evo uprights on a low mileage 1996 993. I bought the entire suspension for $1,000, used the left side parts and and then sold what I didn't use for $500; found a rear corner light on ebay, headlight from rennlist, and then a few conveniently located race stickers... and I was back in the game (2 weeks later).
While the suspension was disassembled, I had monoballs pressed into all the rear links, upgraded to Tarrett adjustable rear toe links, added solid undercarriage mounts, solid tranny mount, and Wevo semisolid engine mounts. The guys at JIC were incredible to work with, as they overnighted me a new shock two days before my next event when we discovered that the adjustment **** had seized.
I took a lot of crap all season with the "phantom of the opera" car (looked great from one side and appalling from the other), but she runs better than ever.
Now that the season is over, I have time to get her back to her former glory (and begin phase III of upgrades). Finally have the body shop appointment to have the rear quarter fixed, elected to buy a new rear bumper (euro bumperrette delete from DPS), and will have the left fender and quarter and rear bumper painted. Will also fill in the bumperrette holes on the front bumper and delete the washer nozzles. Have an appt with Piper for later this month for full cage and sunroof delete.
Last edited by ninjabones; 11-04-2008 at 07:53 PM.
11-04-2008, 10:25 AM
#67
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really sorry to see this...hopefully you will repair the car and go back out. My car looked much worse than yours and the damage was sheetmetal and suspension. These cars are really strong and the way the suspension gives protects the chassis from twisting. Good luck, it sucks for sure but its part of our hobby...
11-04-2008, 10:31 AM
#68
I was worried that the weight of the steel hood might cause it it warp over time. Those CF props from Seine Systems look like a good option. I am sure the OEM RS prop is crazy expensive. I'll check with Sunset on it unless you want to give an estimate, Bill. Or part numbers?
Thanks.
-Bart
Thanks.
-Bart
11-04-2008, 12:45 PM
#74
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Thread Starter
Been there... done that. I know exactly how you feel. It's hearbreaking. Bright side is that you have all winter to source used parts and get her back into shape by next season.
Despite the appearance, my "incident" at the Glen turned out to be primarily cosmetic (and some tweeked suspension bits). The rubber tire-wall marks polished out nicely. I was in a bit of a rush as it was mid season, but I ended up only having to buy a few new parts (front fender $1400 ouch!), but found used front bumper and decklid (in polar silver) from a guy locally for $500, sourced all the suspension components from a local guy who had upgraded to ERP links and Evo uprights on a low mileage 1996 993. I bought the entire suspension for $1,000, used the left side parts and and then sold what I didn't use for $500; found a rear corner light on ebay, headlight from rennlist, and then a few conveniently located race stickers... and I was back in the game (2 weeks later).
While the suspension was disassembled, I had monoballs pressed into all the rear links, upgraded to Tarrett adjustable rear toe links, added solid undercarriage mounts, solid tranny mount, and Wevo semisolid engine mounts. The guys at JIC were incredible to work with, as they overnighted me a new shock two days before my next event when we discovered that the adjustment **** had seized.
I took a lot of crap all season with the "phantom of the opera" car (looked great from one side and appalling from the other), but she runs better than ever.
Now that the season is over, I have time to get her back to her former glory (and begin phase III of upgrades). Finally have the body shop appointment to have the rear quarter fixed, elected to buy a new rear bumper (euro bumperrette delete from DPS), and will have the left fender and quarter and rear bumper painted. Will also fill in the bumperrette holes on the front bumper and delete the washer nozzles. Have an appt with Piper for later this month for full cage and sunroof delete.
Despite the appearance, my "incident" at the Glen turned out to be primarily cosmetic (and some tweeked suspension bits). The rubber tire-wall marks polished out nicely. I was in a bit of a rush as it was mid season, but I ended up only having to buy a few new parts (front fender $1400 ouch!), but found used front bumper and decklid (in polar silver) from a guy locally for $500, sourced all the suspension components from a local guy who had upgraded to ERP links and Evo uprights on a low mileage 1996 993. I bought the entire suspension for $1,000, used the left side parts and and then sold what I didn't use for $500; found a rear corner light on ebay, headlight from rennlist, and then a few conveniently located race stickers... and I was back in the game (2 weeks later).
While the suspension was disassembled, I had monoballs pressed into all the rear links, upgraded to Tarrett adjustable rear toe links, added solid undercarriage mounts, solid tranny mount, and Wevo semisolid engine mounts. The guys at JIC were incredible to work with, as they overnighted me a new shock two days before my next event when we discovered that the adjustment **** had seized.
I took a lot of crap all season with the "phantom of the opera" car (looked great from one side and appalling from the other), but she runs better than ever.
Now that the season is over, I have time to get her back to her former glory (and begin phase III of upgrades). Finally have the body shop appointment to have the rear quarter fixed, elected to buy a new rear bumper (euro bumperrette delete from DPS), and will have the left fender and quarter and rear bumper painted. Will also fill in the bumperrette holes on the front bumper and delete the washer nozzles. Have an appt with Piper for later this month for full cage and sunroof delete.
How did you fix the rear quarter?
11-04-2008, 01:16 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
To get me through the season, we pretty much hammered the quarter back into shape and epoxied and primed it. For a race car, I could have kept it as is and been fine, but she is my baby and I just couldn't stand to see her in this condition for too long. Now that the season is over, I'm having a new Porsche OEM quarter panel welded on this Friday. I decided not to cut any corners on this part of th repair... having a very high end body shop (Brandywine Coachworks in West Chester) do the work and paint. I was able to work out a deal with them as I did all the prep work myself (gutted the interior, etc).
However, you would be amazed at what some paintless dent repair guys can due to the body panels. If you're not looking for concourse quality, give that a try first. The front fenders are an easy bolt on deal, so I'd probably replace them, but the rear quarters are a real PITA to replace and for your race car, I'd probably do everything possible to avoid replacing them.
However, you would be amazed at what some paintless dent repair guys can due to the body panels. If you're not looking for concourse quality, give that a try first. The front fenders are an easy bolt on deal, so I'd probably replace them, but the rear quarters are a real PITA to replace and for your race car, I'd probably do everything possible to avoid replacing them.