goofballdeluxe

First off, I know this subject has been beat to death, and I've done searches.

My clutch all of a sudden has started to slip and I am debating heavily as to whether I should add the lightweight flywheel and RS clutch to my 1996 C4S. I am waaaay on the fence. I know most of the pros and cons already from searching through old posts. If anyone in the Los Angeles area has performed this upgrade, I would love to meet up and see/hear it for myself. Lunch is on me for any takers!

My question has more to do about the installation. Is this a pretty straight ahead install that any person with a good working knowledge of 993s can do? Or is it something like alignment or windshield replacement etc., where you really need a specialist to do this work?

Also, is the LWF with the RS clutch the best combo for a car that sees mostly street duty? Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks in advance!

mborkow

i had a LWF/RS on my C4. I can't think of a reason for you not to get it...it is cheaper too

Robin 993DX

LWF/RS does engage differently than a standard clutch, does takes some getting use to in order not to stall the car, or over rev on take off.

But the pros out weights the cons, so definitely thumbs up for the upgrade.

It is an at least 14 hour job to drop the motor, and split the transmission to do the clutch replacement. But you probably also want to factor in a major service while you are at it type of deal.

It is not hard to do, but just a lot of components to remove and disconnect. To do it without a lift you will need at least 2 floor jacks, bunch of jack stands and a transmission or motorcycle jack to rest the engine on.

When me and Chris do a job like this we usually split the job into 2-3 days to complete, just to make sure everything is done properly. We also remove the rear bumper cover even though the shop manual doesn't call for it. This way we are can also inspec the CAT, and condition of the heatshield under the bumper cover.

1st day, remove everything, disconenct, label parts etc.
2nd day drop motor, do a major service and install new clutch, clean transmission bell housing etc.
3rd day, install and vechicle test



See the bell housing before and after

wayne993

Just do it. Then you can tell us all how much better it is.

MarkD

LWF is a nice upgrade. It is a good idea to do as you are, check out someone else's first, make sure you like it.
I think you will. Anytime you can reduce the mass your engine has to spin up, it is a good thing.

On the shop choice, you want someone who has "been there, done that" on a 993 before. It is not horribly difficult but if I were not tackling it myself, I would want someone who has. If you are asking specifically about the LWF/clutch setup, that is very similar to the standard job and can be done by anyone who has done a dual mass job before.

As Robin said, this is a good chance to do a lot of "other stuff" while it is out, assuming they will drop the engine to do the job.
As for what else to do at the same time, depends on your miles... and repair/maintenance history. Clutch slave, slave hose, PS belt, plug wires, yada yada yada... the list can get very long.

pcar

Send me a PM and you can take my car for a spin

Mark in Baltimore

No reason not to. No install issues. You have a '96, so you won't have the potential stalling issues.

Wilder

Do it. The RS/LWF should take all of a few minutes to get used to and won't be a problem on a mostly street-driven car. A quick test drive on someone's car and you'll be sold.

clubsport1

I was at the specalists when I had mine fitted to a previous car, the engine stayed in place and the transmission was loweed...That was on a 2wd 993, mine took about 2 1/2 hours all in.
Even with having to remove connection with the other end of the gearox, I doubt it would take the 14 hours mentioned with this method?
Definitely try a car first, it seems a love/ hate mod to me on a road car.

Monique

I would like to add o CS1 comment above. I did an engine drop and lots of component changes on my own car. For an amateur doing it on his shop floor will require 14 hours for sure.

Regarding the love/hate relationship, my G50/31 gearbox had a longer first gear ratio and it was not much fun in congested traffic ... the standard shorter ratio cars should have no problems.. good luck

tropheus

I just did this mod as my clutch also started to slip. After researching and reading on this board I decided to go with LWF and bought the package from ViberBob. The package was well sorted and had everything needed - told me my shop ;-)

Now I have to get used too!!! Sometimes I drive like a 17 year old with first time driving a manual and I stall the car sometimes. Especially being the first on a traffic light uphill. Well, you reduce weight and it is all about F=m*a.
On the pro side - the car picks up much faster. Especially when I switch from the 1st in the 2nd and from 2nd in the 3rd gear. Again - also here F=m*a.

Hoping that I will get used too I would do it again. That's my opinion / experience after 4 days ;-)

Jack

CarreraX

I also just did the LWF and I love it except for the feel. Like tropheus stated, I feel like a 17 year old and just havent gotten used to it in the week that I have had it (Although I have only driven it 4 times). Hopefully I will get used to it at Mid Ohio this weekend. With that said, I am 100% glad that I did it! Now if I can get it to stop stalling. I cleaned the ICV and an just driving the car per Steve W's advice.

leosayer

How do you tell if your car as the LWF / RS clutch installed?. It certainly feels like it on my 993 C2, compared to my old 964.

clubsport1

Leo, your ears should help you,,,,if you sit there in nuetral and you can hear the sound of spanners rattling around in a metal tin...if this noise stops when you put your foot on the clutch....then you may have it..
The lwf is considerably more noisy up to say 2k rpm, when the gears mesh. The old dual mass had a silica gel between the 2 plates which reduced the noise and vibration.

CarreraX

The way to tell is that if you drive with your AC on and come to a stop w/o bumping up the RPM, the car will stall.