Brake Squeal from recent service?
06-30-2008, 11:05 PM
#1
Racer
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Brake Squeal from recent service?
Yes - I have searched. I know about all of the threads on the squeal...I just have a basic question.
I did not have any squeal at all and went in for recent service. The shop (Porsche Shop only) flushed brakes and replaced rotors (front) and pads. After service it seemed fine, then tonight there was a little rain on the road, and I get a terrible squeal at low speed/slow stop.
I am very upset - my question is, should I be? I know many of you have and cannot get rid of break squeal. I DID NOT have it, and after paying a good bit of money, I NOW HAVE IT???? Should I be upset and demand a fix? What is the correct corse of action here?
Thanks
I did not have any squeal at all and went in for recent service. The shop (Porsche Shop only) flushed brakes and replaced rotors (front) and pads. After service it seemed fine, then tonight there was a little rain on the road, and I get a terrible squeal at low speed/slow stop.
I am very upset - my question is, should I be? I know many of you have and cannot get rid of break squeal. I DID NOT have it, and after paying a good bit of money, I NOW HAVE IT???? Should I be upset and demand a fix? What is the correct corse of action here?
Thanks
07-01-2008, 02:54 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
I had a squeal right after a pad replacement on the 993. Independent had put, I think, Hawk pads as used by many for the track. They were happy to change them back to OEM, squeak gone.
07-01-2008, 07:39 AM
#4
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Jerry at EPE replaced my front pads and rotors with factory parts, including the spiders. God-awful squealing.
Took the car back, he removed everything, cleaned and re-installed.
Still squeals like crazy. Been going on for 4000 miles now.
Took the car back, he removed everything, cleaned and re-installed.
Still squeals like crazy. Been going on for 4000 miles now.
07-01-2008, 11:38 AM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Mine don't 'squeal like crazy' (so much that I have to turn the radio UP!) - but I do get 'a mild but noticeable eeeeek' as I'm pulling up to a stop light. They're the original pads, front and rear, plenty of miles left on them too (34,000+ miles). I gotsta admit, it doesn't bother me at all. This may sound weird (and, yes, I am willing to go to therapy if y'all say so) - but I look upon it as my car saying "Hi" to the other, stopped, cars.
Gerry
Gerry
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07-01-2008, 03:47 PM
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No offense - the club sucks!
I talked to the shop, they disclosed that they used Pagid pads and DID NOT follow the break in procedure (detailed below). I will try it myself per thier instructions and see if it is too late or if it helps at all. The shop is very well thought of and very nice people, I by no means want anyone to think I have hard feelings. I think that if this leaves me with the same squeal (mine is really bad, people in cars with the windows rolled up turn to see if I hit a cat....) I am sure they will change them and make it better.
The instructions are below - probably posted here before - but it may be helpful to someone.
By the way - Ste993 - where could I find a 'billboard' like that to display my Porsche shirts????
BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
UPDATED 2/3/03
I talked to the shop, they disclosed that they used Pagid pads and DID NOT follow the break in procedure (detailed below). I will try it myself per thier instructions and see if it is too late or if it helps at all. The shop is very well thought of and very nice people, I by no means want anyone to think I have hard feelings. I think that if this leaves me with the same squeal (mine is really bad, people in cars with the windows rolled up turn to see if I hit a cat....) I am sure they will change them and make it better.
The instructions are below - probably posted here before - but it may be helpful to someone.
By the way - Ste993 - where could I find a 'billboard' like that to display my Porsche shirts????
BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
UPDATED 2/3/03
07-01-2008, 04:43 PM
#10
She says "It'll cost you!"
07-02-2008, 08:56 AM
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Still have squeal after trying brake in procedure (albiet, late). I am returning to shop and asking for OEM pads, etc per some previous posts that had good results with this. Will update
07-02-2008, 09:33 AM
#12
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Do keep up posted ...
I have noticed that mine will quit squealing if I ride the brakes much as described in the above post, but it will only last for a little while, then the squealing comes back.
Mine only does it coming down to a stop, as well, and you can modulate it pretty well with the pressure on the pedal, but it is LOUD!
I have noticed that mine will quit squealing if I ride the brakes much as described in the above post, but it will only last for a little while, then the squealing comes back.
Mine only does it coming down to a stop, as well, and you can modulate it pretty well with the pressure on the pedal, but it is LOUD!
07-02-2008, 10:43 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
I hope the OEM pads and break in process works for you. It did for me. I brought my own OEM pads into my Indy. After they put them on the owner took the car straight off the rack and told me he needed to take the car out and bed the brakes.
When he got back the fronts were smoking...literally. I remember thinking WTF?
I have never had any squeal period.
When he got back the fronts were smoking...literally. I remember thinking WTF?
I have never had any squeal period.
07-02-2008, 11:20 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
As pointed out in a separate thread over a year ago....There can sometimes be a difference between OEM parts and Original Porsche parts. What you want is Original Porsche pads in the Porsche box with a Porsche parts number on it. Anything else, even if manufactured by the company that made the Original Porsche pads, may be something different.
Terry
Terry