Shift Linkage Repair Help
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Hi all,
I am having trouble fixing the cup and ball assembly at the front of my shift linkage. On the bottom of the car, just in front of the shifter and behind the steeering rack, is where there is a ball mounted to the bottom of the car and there is a rod from the bottom of the shifter going to this ball and it's attached by a little cup with a plastic insert in it. Mine disintegrated over time and the assembly came apart, meaning I couldn't shift. I got that little cup assembly to repair this ($79!) but don't know how to get it unscrewed from the end of the rod. I tried turning the cup with pliers while holding the rod steady with the 17mm nut on it, but couldn't get it to budge. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Dave
95 C2
I am having trouble fixing the cup and ball assembly at the front of my shift linkage. On the bottom of the car, just in front of the shifter and behind the steeering rack, is where there is a ball mounted to the bottom of the car and there is a rod from the bottom of the shifter going to this ball and it's attached by a little cup with a plastic insert in it. Mine disintegrated over time and the assembly came apart, meaning I couldn't shift. I got that little cup assembly to repair this ($79!) but don't know how to get it unscrewed from the end of the rod. I tried turning the cup with pliers while holding the rod steady with the 17mm nut on it, but couldn't get it to budge. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Dave
95 C2
#2
Seared
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Dave,
I went through the same issue and paid for a new end - before finding out that the plastic insert can be had for a dollar or two! Check with Sunset - I believe it has a 928 part number.
In the meantime, place the shifter end of the rod in a bench vice. You should then be able to crack the jam nut loose. Using the flats on the hollow rod will only cause it to deform.
Andreas
I went through the same issue and paid for a new end - before finding out that the plastic insert can be had for a dollar or two! Check with Sunset - I believe it has a 928 part number.
In the meantime, place the shifter end of the rod in a bench vice. You should then be able to crack the jam nut loose. Using the flats on the hollow rod will only cause it to deform.
Andreas
#3
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Unless the lock nut is seized or overtightened, you should be able to hold the rod using the flats on it, loosen the lock nut, and unscrew the ball end.
#4
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As you already have a new ball/cup assembly, clamp the threaded shaft of the old one in the vise ( or the cup itself) vs clamping the shift rod .... ie., sacrifice the cup, not the rod: soak the lock nut in penetrant, like Kroil .... and loosen it. repeat on the threaded shaft if it remains in the shifter linkage. Be sure to measure the installed length of the old one before destruction ... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Before pressing the new assembly on, I prefer to dab the cup and ball with a waterproof teflon grease.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Before pressing the new assembly on, I prefer to dab the cup and ball with a waterproof teflon grease.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Awesome, thanks guys.
I realized when I read your posts that I was trying to turn the fitting and not the locknut. Also need a lot of elbow grease (and a little penetrant overnight) to pop. Good idea on the replacement cup Andreas, will have to do that one next time.
New one went on no problem. Also took your advice Garth on grease. Wow, I had to use a floor jack with a puck on it to pop that thing on there. Moves around but was surprised that it took a bit of force to get on.
Happy motoring this weekend.
I realized when I read your posts that I was trying to turn the fitting and not the locknut. Also need a lot of elbow grease (and a little penetrant overnight) to pop. Good idea on the replacement cup Andreas, will have to do that one next time.
New one went on no problem. Also took your advice Garth on grease. Wow, I had to use a floor jack with a puck on it to pop that thing on there. Moves around but was surprised that it took a bit of force to get on.
Happy motoring this weekend.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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PS - if you do this job, make sure you get both ends - I just had to pull the bottom of my car off again because the joint directly beneath the shifter was just as rotten as the front one. Just the act of moving it all around to fix the front one made all the insides of the rear one come out!
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#9
Seared
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#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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If any of you have to do this for both ends (and assuming you prefer not to do the bush replacement) you can get this Weltmeister setup for less than $300 - about twice what the two pieces will cost you. Big advantage is that they did it the way Porsche should've done it in the first place - heim joints at both ends. I didn't want to wait since this car is my daily driver but it looks like a good solution.
http://www.weltmeister.com/ProductDe...?productID=414
Dave
http://www.weltmeister.com/ProductDe...?productID=414
Dave