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Front Ball Joint Removal on a C4

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Old 05-16-2008, 08:35 PM
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jaholmes
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Default Front Ball Joint Removal on a C4

I want to replace the front ball joints on my C4S but I realize that the drive shaft is in the way of the torx head bolt on the top of the ball joint. I do have the A-arm off but the shock is still attached. I can move the hub alot, but is there a way to move the hub to make the bolt clear.

The other question is do I need a pickle fork to get it off. It sounds like it's 50/50 if it will just fall off or if it needs a little blunt force help.

Is there anything else that I am missing. I hope I don't need to remove the drive shaft.
Old 05-16-2008, 11:38 PM
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Garth S
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Jim,
Take a look at this link - although done with a different goal ( replacing the inboard diff seal), method "b" will expose the stud end of the ball joint.
To remove the ball joint, I used a standard press; however, if the joint is already shot, a pickle fork will do ( if the joint is still good, the pickle fork will gurantee that it becomes trash ). BTW, the ball stud did not fall out ..... it took considerable force, so leave the nut on several turns to keep things from violently flying apart when it releases.
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:15 AM
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jaholmes
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Hmm, this is a little hard to follow. I have most of part B done. My concern is that the ball joint has a torx bit at the top so you can hold it while (un) tightening. I just had a though to use a standard 1/4 torx bit and they use a box wrench or maybe a socked to hold it while I tighten it.

So is this tool above a way to separate the ball joint humanely.
Old 05-17-2008, 05:54 AM
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Garth S
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In my experience, it is highly unlikely that a ball joint stud will turn as the nut is removed ... it is generally a fight to get the release of the tapered stud. That tool shown is the humane way to press out the stud, especially on an aluminium hub. ( there is a "two hammer" trick that works very well - but I prefer to limit that to steel hubs)

To reinstall a balljoint, use a second jack and a wood block to press the dry stud into its tapered hole: then, it is easy to torque the nut down. This approach can also be used on the disassembly if the nut was not removed far enough prior to releasing the stud.
Old 05-17-2008, 10:44 AM
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jaholmes
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This makes more sense now. It sounds like I shouldn't worry about having the bolt slip. That is good news. I agree with using this tool to remove the ball joint instead of the other options.

Right now I have the ball joints and I want to put them in so I can get my car back on the road, but I also just installed new bushings and JIC coilovers so I am going in for an corner balance and alignment. I may just let the shop install them. Or I may skip it for now. I don't think they are that bad.



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