jaholmes

Following my transmission is out thread. I am looking for input and make sure I get all the while your in there stuff done on the engine before it goes back in.

The SAI valve was at the top of the list and the first thing I did. It was still a pain even with the engine out. I need to get the engine on a stand so that I can roto-root the passages.

SAI Flush
Valve Covers gaskets. I got a set from EBS Racing. Wrightwood I think.
Plugs. No plug wires, they look to be in good shape.
Fuel Injector Cleaning
Fuel Filter
Belts
Engine deck lid shocks.
Engine sound mat.
Distributor Belt. I would like to do the distributor belt fix, I just need to research it.

The other thing I am working to touble shoot is the oil level gauge. It doesn't work. I pulled the sending unit from the tank, but it didn't reveal much. I need to trace back the cable to the engine bay to see how it connects.


Anything else.

tracke30m3

Check the clutch? Hoses, vacuum lines, various gaskets (timing chain gasket etc..).

I also replaced my RMS when I had my clutch done.

Marlon

I would guess that replacing the wires, while not cheap, would be prudent since you will replace them at some point anyway. Plus, if you decide to sell the car, it would be a great selling point to an informed potential buyer.

Terry Adams

I thought they came that way.

At 11 years old, I would replace the plug wires. Labor is almost free.
+1 on the timing chain gaskets.

jaholmes

The plug wires look new. I will have to dig through service records to see if it was done. I have a feeling I wasted my money on plugs. I just jumped the gun buying them.

I am going to look into the cam cover gaskets. There is some oil there, I was just not sure if it was a by product of the leaking valve cover. I am doing the RMS.

jaholmes

I agree. I am not going to spend a lot of time on it. That is what the dipstick is for.

2Many Cars

Belts should include the power steering belt at the front of the engine

Mark Harris

+1...almost impossible to do with motor in.

g_murray

Clean out the ISV valve - coz it's a bitch to do when the engine is 'in' (there ain't a lot of room between the top of the engine and the engine-sound-deadening material.)

Also check the vacuum fitting (the one that looks like a small M-16 rifle) that is on the left side of the engine - at the back. It's the one that usually 'collapses' and causes problems with the operation of the varioram.

Just be careful that you don't *introduce* new problems in your attempt to fix 'existing' ones or perform 'preventative maintenance'. My general philosophy when 'doing maintenance' is "First do no harm". For example: those who have tried to do the "SAI fandango" have, inadvertantly, busted the air-housing into which it sits.

Bon chance!

Gerry

99three

Depending on the mileage you may want to do the clutch now since the labour is at a minimum.

jaholmes

Hmm, so that's what's under that cover...

jaholmes

The clutch / LWFW is being done, that was the whole reason for the engine drop.

jaholmes

So I am going to do the plug wires. I could not find where they had been done and the left side wires are not looking too good.

the shop that is going to do my alignment is able to change the distributor belt so I am going to take it off and let them do it for me.

I will have to find the ISV valve, I am not sure what or where it is.

I am also putting in new coilover's so new Walrod bushings are going in.

I will add the PS belt to the list.

Thanks,
Jim

TRINITONY

ISV - top midpoint of engine - rest snug against sound deading material - looks like an L shape black rubber piece....

2Many Cars

ISV - http://p-car.com/diy/isv/


Robin indicates this is a 2-3 scale of difficulty but is probably only a 0.5 with the engine out.