Help with engine drop tools list.
03-10-2008, 11:36 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Help with engine drop tools list.
I am getting ready to do an engine drop and I am starting to find tools that I am missing. I have a good set of metric tools. It's easy to find smaller metric tools, but the large, specific, tools can be a pain to find on short notice. I will also have a torque wrenches to put things back together.
One thing that I caught after reading Toga's DIY, is the oil return tube. It uses a 32mm and 36mm. It looks like the 32mm needs to be a thin wrench. Can the 36mm be an adjustable wrench, or should I bite the bullet and get both specific tools.
Also, I am not entirely clear on if I am trying to remove the 36mm first and leave the 32mm in the case to drop the motor. Then change out the 32mm in the case since i'm in there.
Another way to put it, am I using the 32mm to hold it in place while I remove the 36mm.
The other tool is the Torx 14? for the toe arm. Is the bolt an 18mm. I am going to replace the suspension as well and I thought there was more to this. I thought the suspension DIY made reference to using a 22mm open hazat tool for something back there.
Thanks,
Jim
One thing that I caught after reading Toga's DIY, is the oil return tube. It uses a 32mm and 36mm. It looks like the 32mm needs to be a thin wrench. Can the 36mm be an adjustable wrench, or should I bite the bullet and get both specific tools.
Also, I am not entirely clear on if I am trying to remove the 36mm first and leave the 32mm in the case to drop the motor. Then change out the 32mm in the case since i'm in there.
Another way to put it, am I using the 32mm to hold it in place while I remove the 36mm.
The other tool is the Torx 14? for the toe arm. Is the bolt an 18mm. I am going to replace the suspension as well and I thought there was more to this. I thought the suspension DIY made reference to using a 22mm open hazat tool for something back there.
Thanks,
Jim
03-10-2008, 12:49 PM
#3
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
Jim,
Remove the oil line at the engine case, as for the toe arm I believe the ecentric bolt is a 19mm the the nut is a 18mm. Or could be the other way around. You remove them on the subframe and leave them hanging on the hub. Make sure you mark the ecentric bolt before you remove it, as you will need to line up the marking when you install it back to maintain the alignment. It is easier to get to the subframe craddle bolts once you remove the toe arm from the subframe side.
To think of the hard part of this DIY:
(1). Throttle cable, you will have to lower the engine a little in order to gain access to remove the cable. The shop manual says to remove the throttle cable from the pedal cluster and remove the whole thing. Why mess with taking apart more stuff when you don't need to. Then getting the rubber grummet back to the sheet metal is a pain. Make sure you mark which sheet metal hole that came off from as there are two holes.
(2). Most likly you will need to remove the starter once you get the engine half way down, I know there is a way to move it down to clear the dangling drive shaft, but once the enging is half way down it is easy to get to the 10mm allen socket on top to remove the starter, since you would have already removed the bottom nut to remove the cable anyways,
(3). Half way down make sure no wires is tangled by the engine, especially the reverse light wire.
(4). No way to drop the engine without disconnecting the P/S reservoir, and it jsut makes a giant mess and doesn't stop leaking.
But once you get it out, it is just beautiful!!!!!
Remove the oil line at the engine case, as for the toe arm I believe the ecentric bolt is a 19mm the the nut is a 18mm. Or could be the other way around. You remove them on the subframe and leave them hanging on the hub. Make sure you mark the ecentric bolt before you remove it, as you will need to line up the marking when you install it back to maintain the alignment. It is easier to get to the subframe craddle bolts once you remove the toe arm from the subframe side.
To think of the hard part of this DIY:
(1). Throttle cable, you will have to lower the engine a little in order to gain access to remove the cable. The shop manual says to remove the throttle cable from the pedal cluster and remove the whole thing. Why mess with taking apart more stuff when you don't need to. Then getting the rubber grummet back to the sheet metal is a pain. Make sure you mark which sheet metal hole that came off from as there are two holes.
(2). Most likly you will need to remove the starter once you get the engine half way down, I know there is a way to move it down to clear the dangling drive shaft, but once the enging is half way down it is easy to get to the 10mm allen socket on top to remove the starter, since you would have already removed the bottom nut to remove the cable anyways,
(3). Half way down make sure no wires is tangled by the engine, especially the reverse light wire.
(4). No way to drop the engine without disconnecting the P/S reservoir, and it jsut makes a giant mess and doesn't stop leaking.
But once you get it out, it is just beautiful!!!!!
Last edited by Robin 993DX; 03-10-2008 at 01:13 PM.
03-10-2008, 03:42 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Jim,
The 'open' socket you mention is for the top nut of the struts. I made my own set if you are interested in seeing a pic.
As for the oil line wrenches, here's a possible solution:
Pelican
Andreas
The 'open' socket you mention is for the top nut of the struts. I made my own set if you are interested in seeing a pic.
As for the oil line wrenches, here's a possible solution:
Pelican
Andreas
Thanks for the link to pelican. I did find these and will probably get at least one of them.
