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Lifter noise

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Old 02-12-2008, 10:21 AM
  #16  
djimenez993tt
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allright! now I'm ...... scared . If I decide to relaplace the offending lifter, I might as well replace them all, that is all 12. if I'm doing it? what else shoud I change once the engine is out?

david
Old 02-12-2008, 10:33 AM
  #17  
chris walrod
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Lifters can be replaced with the engine in the car. Unless you have other 'engine out' work to do, leave it in the car.
Old 02-12-2008, 10:35 AM
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djimenez993tt
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all 12? sure about that?
Old 02-12-2008, 11:16 AM
  #19  
TheOtherEric
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Aren't lifters somewhat expensive? Not sure it's really necessary to replace 12 lifters if only 1 is bad. If it ain't broke...

I didn't think you could do top-side lifters without pulling the engine, but it's nice to know you can.
Old 02-12-2008, 01:06 PM
  #20  
nsully
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A couple of thoughts on replacing the lifters.
On my 95 I had some pronounced lifter noise, especially when running hard in hot weather. There was no way I could isolate the offending lifter so I replaced all 12. Considering most of the job is preparing the car for the work it seems prudent to do all 12. The effort needed to pull out each lifter ruins it anyway so its not like they can be reinserted.
In 8/06 I was able to source 12 lifters from Euroeast @ $16.90 each. The dealer wants every bit of $80. Vortex(Bob) would be a safe bet for a good price. I did not try Sunset.
With the car up off the ground (I used jackstands),mufflers off, remove heat exchanger hose(black), then remove the sheet metal for access to the upper bank. Digital manipulation at its best. Some of the nuts are tight and you need to thread the plug wires though their opening. All work can be done from the bottom. A great time to do plugs and valve cover gaskets.
I am trying to attach a pic to give you a better idea.
Be prepared for a racket when you start the car up! It may take 10-20 seconds for all of the lifters to pressure up and get quiet. Some choose to turn the car over 1st to build pressure prior to starting. Remove the coil wire from both caps.
Good luck!
Neil
Old 02-12-2008, 01:59 PM
  #21  
AOW162435
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Neil's pic:





Andreas
Old 02-12-2008, 04:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cy
I've had a similar situation with my car for the past 5 years. I live in NYC, but keep the car in Atlanta and only use it for a week each of the 3 or 4 times I make it home each year (so the car only gets from less than 1,000 to, at most, 2,000 miles per year).

Approx 50% of the first time starts from storage I get the clicking noise for maybe 5 minutes and then it goes away. It definitely sounds like only 1 lifter and it seems to go away faster if I actually drive it versus idle (which is probably due to the higher RPM and consequent pressure in the system). And the situation never occurs again after that initial start for the rest of the week or so that I use the car.
...edited
In your case I believe it would be prudent to take the DME relay out before you start the car and let it turn over a few times to get the oil flowing in the engine. Then return the DME relay and start the car as normal. This will reduce your cold start wear.
Maybe you do this already.
Old 07-28-2008, 04:42 PM
  #23  
aaronazevedo
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Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
You probable have collapsed lifter(s). Not uncommon.

I have a theory about this too, that I've never investigated. I wonder if collapsed lifters might cause the engines knock sensors to think the engine is knocking due to the vibration. Then it would retard timing, causing lots of power loss. Just a hypothesis (which could be checked pretty easily, actually).
What does a collapsed lifter mean? HOw does this happen? More importantly, how do I fix it and what does it cost?

My car has just been diagnosed with a bad lifter and the dealer is quoting me 22 hours of labor and a total bill of about $4000!!!!
Old 07-28-2008, 04:59 PM
  #24  
murfysflaw
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Originally Posted by aaronazevedo
What does a collapsed lifter mean? HOw does this happen? More importantly, how do I fix it and what does it cost?

My car has just been diagnosed with a bad lifter and the dealer is quoting me 22 hours of labor and a total bill of about $4000!!!!
My mechanic showed me a little diagram of it, but basically there's a little seal that goes bad/cracks and causes the lifter to collapse which results in the tapping you hear. It's from not being used/driven, dirty oil, age... the cars are getting up there now.

As for fixing it... that's insane. I was going to have all of mine done, including LWF and RS clutch for that price.

I've since gotten another opinion who said not to mess with it at this time. They suggested I drive it harder/more to see if that clears it up, but it's been too warm to do that so far.



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