Power window motor removal
#1
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Help!
I've read all 268 posts on the subject and still can't apply the process to reality. The parts diagram only shows 2 hex head screws securing the motor to the regulator. I removed both, the motor is a little loose but it seems that there is something else holding it in. There are 5 similar size holes on the replacement motor housing plus a smaller hole that appear to be attachment points but only the 2 hex head screws showing on the door skin. Does the window have to be forced down lower to show more of the regulator and the other attachment points to the motor? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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#2
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When I did mine, I loosened the regulator to door bolts and removed the two right near the motor itself. This allowed me to swing the motor upward on the regulator and remove a third bolt....... Hard to explain but easy to do
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#3
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I did this job today. Other posts suggest taping the window up and separating the window from the regulator. This was pretty much impossible on my car as the rubber on the regulator channel has vulcanized or something so that it was REALLY stuck to the window. Not wanting to damage the glass or regulator I removed all of the 10mm hex head bolts and wriggled the regulator around to get to the motor. As noted above there are 3 bolts holding the motor to the regulator. Mine were torx head and I had to use a torx driver and not a socket driver due to narrow access. Its not too hard to remove the screws but putting them back in place is tricky. Also, on the upper screw you will find a washer/shield that appears to keep moisture that passes through the window molding from dripping onto the drive gear of the motor. Make sure you note the orientation of this piece. Your new motor will not have threaded holes and its infinitely easier to tap the three holes on a bench before trying to install the motor. I simply started the screw 1/4" or so in each hole. See pics below:
Start with the lower screws and locate the motor, making sure the drive gear is not binding with the regulator arm. Make sure the shield is in place and tighten all 3 bolts.
As you maneuver the regulator back into position you may find it easier to have a helper raise or lower the window by grasping the top edge. Its important to make sure none of the regulator rollers have jumped off their tracks. Snug up the regulator bolts and use blue loctite, add grease to your regulator tracks (but not the felt guides) and make sure everything moves smoothly. Check that the drain holes on the bottom of the door are clear and reassemble the interior door panel.
Start with the lower screws and locate the motor, making sure the drive gear is not binding with the regulator arm. Make sure the shield is in place and tighten all 3 bolts.
As you maneuver the regulator back into position you may find it easier to have a helper raise or lower the window by grasping the top edge. Its important to make sure none of the regulator rollers have jumped off their tracks. Snug up the regulator bolts and use blue loctite, add grease to your regulator tracks (but not the felt guides) and make sure everything moves smoothly. Check that the drain holes on the bottom of the door are clear and reassemble the interior door panel.
#4
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The old motor is on the left and has a guide or bushing pressed into one of the holes on its body. Transfer this to your new motor. Be careful removing the plug from your old motor - who know where to source a new one if you crack it!
#6
Burning Brakes
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I was wondering the exact same thing. I tried and tried to reach into the door and get that to unplug but couldn't! You can't see in there to see if the plug just pulls off or has some kind of tab.
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Page 64-3 says:
"Remove regulator, then motor through hole in door."
No detailed photos, nor helpful drawings.
#10
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This may be of no help, but just in case it helps, I installed a one-touch module to my driver's window late last year. The following link should take you to the instructions for it. https://www.paragon-products.com/kb_results.asp?ID=11
I had to disconnect 2 leads from the motor, which was entirely by feel since I had to reach up through the speaker cutout. As I recall, the leads did pull off but were quite tight. Hope this may help.
I had to disconnect 2 leads from the motor, which was entirely by feel since I had to reach up through the speaker cutout. As I recall, the leads did pull off but were quite tight. Hope this may help.