Rear Spoiler noisy during retraction...
07-23-2007, 01:45 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Rear Spoiler noisy during retraction...
Realize there have been lots of discussion on this topic, but is the noise limited to just the bearings or can the motor or flex drive shaft be bad also??? Mine makes a pretty horrendous noise when it retracts.
07-23-2007, 01:50 PM
#2
Weathergirl
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The bearing costs <$5, so it's the logical first step. While you're taking it apart to replace the bearing, keep an eye out for other problems.
Mine was very noisy with a horrible grinding sound. It was the bearing.
Mine was very noisy with a horrible grinding sound. It was the bearing.
07-24-2007, 08:53 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
You can take the drive cable out easily and grease it up to eliminate this possible cause but it's way more likely to be the bearing. When I swapped my one over it was all rusty and I was amazed that it was still turning let alone working. Be prepared to use a lot of elbow grease breaking the gearbox apart. I had to cut some of the flange away in the end just to get the two parts apart.
Cheers,
David
Cheers,
David
07-24-2007, 09:36 AM
#5
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Marlon,
I did this repair last month. By far, the most difficult part is splitting the gearbox case.
The noise is all but gone now. Feel free to PM for pointers.
Andreas
I did this repair last month. By far, the most difficult part is splitting the gearbox case.
The noise is all but gone now. Feel free to PM for pointers.
Andreas
07-24-2007, 11:44 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
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Originally Posted by AOW162435
By far, the most difficult part is splitting the gearbox case.
One thing to note is the case includes a small flange that extends around the connection interface of the two halves. Be sure NOT to cut through that flange when you pry the parts apart so that you can properly align it and bond it together afterward.
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07-24-2007, 04:29 PM
#10
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here's a quick writeup based on how I did this repair last month:
• Make sure the spoiler is fully retracted
• Pull the rubber cover back where the shaft goes into the motor housing.
• Use a small screwdriver or dental tool to pull back the small white plastic ring.
• Pull the flax shaft out of the motor housing.
• Remove the two Philips screws that hold the plastic gearbox cover in place.
• Rotate the cover to undo it from the tabs.
• Remove the three Allen bolts that secure the gearbox housing to the underside of the decklid.
• The entire assembly can now be removed.
• Pull the flex shaft from the gearbox housing in order to clean and re-grease it.
• Using a ton of patience, a utility knife, and a scraper, split the gearbox case. (You will scratch and scar it during the process - just take your time. It was probably never meant to be opened again…).
• The case material is pretty tough - make sure to work your way around the seam many times with the knife before starting with the scraper.
• Pry the two halves apart.
• Using a brush and some degreaser, thoroughly clean the gearbox.
• The small ball end should slip right off the worm gear shaft.
• Using a bench vice and your most imaginative combination of sockets, etc., press the old bearing off.
• Reverse this procedure to press the new one back one, making sure not to damage the bearing in the process.
• Properly grease the gear surfaces but keep the grease away from the mating surfaces of the housing.
• Using normal Super Glue, apply adhesive along the perimeter of the housing and press back together (clamps or heavy rubber bands may be helpful).
• Once sufficient time has passed for the glue to dry, reattach the housing to the underside of the decklid. If the gear mechanism has resistance, turn the flex shaft to relax the tension.
• Seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc. before reinstalling the assembly.
• Reattach the plastic cover and reinsert the flex shaft into the motor.
• Make sure the white plastic insert seats correctly by tugging on the flex shaft.
• Test the spoiler and marvel at the reduction in noise!
Andreas
• Make sure the spoiler is fully retracted
• Pull the rubber cover back where the shaft goes into the motor housing.
• Use a small screwdriver or dental tool to pull back the small white plastic ring.
• Pull the flax shaft out of the motor housing.
• Remove the two Philips screws that hold the plastic gearbox cover in place.
• Rotate the cover to undo it from the tabs.
• Remove the three Allen bolts that secure the gearbox housing to the underside of the decklid.
• The entire assembly can now be removed.
• Pull the flex shaft from the gearbox housing in order to clean and re-grease it.
• Using a ton of patience, a utility knife, and a scraper, split the gearbox case. (You will scratch and scar it during the process - just take your time. It was probably never meant to be opened again…).
• The case material is pretty tough - make sure to work your way around the seam many times with the knife before starting with the scraper.
• Pry the two halves apart.
• Using a brush and some degreaser, thoroughly clean the gearbox.
• The small ball end should slip right off the worm gear shaft.
• Using a bench vice and your most imaginative combination of sockets, etc., press the old bearing off.
• Reverse this procedure to press the new one back one, making sure not to damage the bearing in the process.
• Properly grease the gear surfaces but keep the grease away from the mating surfaces of the housing.
• Using normal Super Glue, apply adhesive along the perimeter of the housing and press back together (clamps or heavy rubber bands may be helpful).
• Once sufficient time has passed for the glue to dry, reattach the housing to the underside of the decklid. If the gear mechanism has resistance, turn the flex shaft to relax the tension.
• Seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc. before reinstalling the assembly.
• Reattach the plastic cover and reinsert the flex shaft into the motor.
• Make sure the white plastic insert seats correctly by tugging on the flex shaft.
• Test the spoiler and marvel at the reduction in noise!
Andreas
Last edited by AOW162435; 07-24-2007 at 05:10 PM.
07-24-2007, 05:02 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
If I could add a line ( or unqualified opinion) to Andreas' thorough list,
- waterproof seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc before reinstalling the assembly.
The bearing is usually found rusted = water inside the transmission: as the case is fully sealed except for the cable drive, consider doing so even if rebuilt with a 'sealed' bearing
- waterproof seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc before reinstalling the assembly.
The bearing is usually found rusted = water inside the transmission: as the case is fully sealed except for the cable drive, consider doing so even if rebuilt with a 'sealed' bearing
07-24-2007, 05:11 PM
#15
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Garth S
If I could add a line ( or unqualified opinion) to Andreas' thorough list,
- waterproof seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc before reinstalling the assembly.
- waterproof seal the drive cable sheath to gear box housing using rubber stretch tape, heavy grease, etc before reinstalling the assembly.
Andreas