Rear calipers are 'toast' according to mechanic
#16
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Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
:0 :0 :0 that sounds like fun. Maybe I'll order the parts (saving about 50% over what they want to charge me) and have them do the R&R.. will save me a couple hundred dollars and I can enjoy a day at work while they get covered with the brake fluid and other nonsense. Hm.. much to ponder.
#17
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Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
Since doing the brake job (new pads and rotors too) I've had squeel off the rear.. probably the right side so I'm pretty sure they are simply not trying to upsell me.
they can be a nightmare to replace if you strip the screw head.
Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
For the $200 or so in parts it's worth trying it myself
Originally Posted by RallyJon
You lose the finger while trying to blow out the pistons with compressed air when whatever you wedged between the pistons slips.
#18
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Jason,
With you 100% ! The top/bottom plates being forced closer and jamming the pads has to be the most common Brembo problem area .
I used to use a gas torch and a deflector/protector plate to heat the retaining plate screws . Then they just pop out .
An air line on the hydraulic pressure line tells all about piston siezure .
Very often a caliper clean up and 4 screws will do the whole job !
Buying calipers to fix that simple issue is a very big buck solution !!!
Geoff
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KS400200,the oldest 964 on Rennlist,unless you know differently !
With you 100% ! The top/bottom plates being forced closer and jamming the pads has to be the most common Brembo problem area .
I used to use a gas torch and a deflector/protector plate to heat the retaining plate screws . Then they just pop out .
An air line on the hydraulic pressure line tells all about piston siezure .
Very often a caliper clean up and 4 screws will do the whole job !
Buying calipers to fix that simple issue is a very big buck solution !!!
Geoff
----------------------------------------------------------------
KS400200,the oldest 964 on Rennlist,unless you know differently !
#19
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Awesome info guys!
I'm scheduled to pick up the car in it's current state I've driven the car for over 10,000 withou this problem unknown to me).
When I put in the new pads I was able to move the pisonts back and they did not seem to be more difficult to push back into the caliper than any others.. I just noted to myself that one pad on the right side was nearly to metal while the other three (speaking of rears) were at less than 50% worn.
I'll order up the rebuild parts. Interesting notes about those plates. I had ONE HELL of a time getting that damn spring (8) into place and I wonder if I might have tweaked those spring plates. I just got it back on the road after the suspension install and taking it back down for x days for the rear brakes really bums me out but.. can't screw around with brakes...
I'm scheduled to pick up the car in it's current state I've driven the car for over 10,000 withou this problem unknown to me).
When I put in the new pads I was able to move the pisonts back and they did not seem to be more difficult to push back into the caliper than any others.. I just noted to myself that one pad on the right side was nearly to metal while the other three (speaking of rears) were at less than 50% worn.
I'll order up the rebuild parts. Interesting notes about those plates. I had ONE HELL of a time getting that damn spring (8) into place and I wonder if I might have tweaked those spring plates. I just got it back on the road after the suspension install and taking it back down for x days for the rear brakes really bums me out but.. can't screw around with brakes...
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
Did you have a really difficult time installing/fitting the new pads into the caliper?
UPDATE: This is interesting.. Schucks shows them for $130.00 each rebuilt ($50 core). For $130 a piece parts are about $50 seems like a no-brainer and 3 days delivery? Lifetime warranty.. Could they possibly screw them up so bad that I'd regret ordering them?
#21
This document may help (from the rebuilders website) to determine why you have uneven wear...
http://www.cardone.com/english/club/...%2018-0005.pdf
http://www.cardone.com/english/club/...%2018-0005.pdf
#22
I'm not a real big fan of Schuck's these days (I do remember when they were locally owned and a much better store), and I'd never get re-built brake calipers from them. I don't even buy oil there anymore (NAPA has better selection and prices).
I'd help you remove them for re-building, but you're a ferry ride away :-)
I'd help you remove them for re-building, but you're a ferry ride away :-)
#23
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Originally Posted by stevedowd911
I'm not a real big fan of Schuck's these days (I do remember when they were locally owned and a much better store), and I'd never get re-built brake calipers from them. I don't even buy oil there anymore (NAPA has better selection and prices).
I'd help you remove them for re-building, but you're a ferry ride away :-)
I'd help you remove them for re-building, but you're a ferry ride away :-)
#24
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Originally Posted by Red Rooster
I used to use a gas torch and a deflector/protector plate to heat the retaining plate screws . Then they just pop out .
Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
UPDATE: This is interesting.. Schucks shows them for $130.00 each rebuilt ($50 core). For $130 a piece parts are about $50 seems like a no-brainer and 3 days delivery? Lifetime warranty.. Could they possibly screw them up so bad that I'd regret ordering them?
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Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
When I did this job I hadn't yet discovered the joys of MAPP gas and oxygen so I was limited to messing around with propane which was hot enough to release the loctite but not enough to deal with corrosion of the screw. What I need is a little baby induction heater for stuck fasteners.
To DIY you're looking at ~$82USD per caliper (4 StopTech Dust Boots & Pressure seals ($50USD) + 2 Spring Plates ($32USD @ Sunset Imports)). The $130 sounds like a good deal but who knows what they used for seals or where the brake calipers originated from.
To DIY you're looking at ~$82USD per caliper (4 StopTech Dust Boots & Pressure seals ($50USD) + 2 Spring Plates ($32USD @ Sunset Imports)). The $130 sounds like a good deal but who knows what they used for seals or where the brake calipers originated from.
I had a chance to talk to the mechanic when I picked up the car. The big problem they were having is not being able to get any fluid to flow from the rear calipers. I suspect, as I've read elsewehre.. there is a waxy buildup from old fluid in the calipers which could be causing the sticking and prevented them from bleeding the system. Maybe they are worse off or perhaps not as bad as I first thought.
In light of this development would a rebuild still be worth pursuit? I've not removed them to confrm yet. I'll try to make time to R&R them tomorrow night. Maybe I can pull them and use air to blow out any waxy crap plugging the bleeders. They said they remvoed the bleed screws completly but could not push out fluid, even using the pedal. When I did the fronts I had some problems getting fluid flowing as well but was able to use the pedal to get it good enough to drive to the shop (bleeding solo without a pressure bleeder was hardly ideal).
#26
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Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
I hear ya. They say life warranty.
I had a chance to talk to the mechanic when I picked up the car. The big problem they were having is not being able to get any fluid to flow from the rear calipers. I suspect, as I've read elsewehre.. there is a waxy buildup from old fluid in the calipers which could be causing the sticking and prevented them from bleeding the system. Maybe they are worse off or perhaps not as bad as I first thought.
In light of this development would a rebuild still be worth pursuit? I've not removed them to confrm yet. I'll try to make time to R&R them tomorrow night. Maybe I can pull them and use air to blow out any waxy crap plugging the bleeders. They said they remvoed the bleed screws completly but could not push out fluid, even using the pedal. When I did the fronts I had some problems getting fluid flowing as well but was able to use the pedal to get it good enough to drive to the shop (bleeding solo without a pressure bleeder was hardly ideal).
I had a chance to talk to the mechanic when I picked up the car. The big problem they were having is not being able to get any fluid to flow from the rear calipers. I suspect, as I've read elsewehre.. there is a waxy buildup from old fluid in the calipers which could be causing the sticking and prevented them from bleeding the system. Maybe they are worse off or perhaps not as bad as I first thought.
In light of this development would a rebuild still be worth pursuit? I've not removed them to confrm yet. I'll try to make time to R&R them tomorrow night. Maybe I can pull them and use air to blow out any waxy crap plugging the bleeders. They said they remvoed the bleed screws completly but could not push out fluid, even using the pedal. When I did the fronts I had some problems getting fluid flowing as well but was able to use the pedal to get it good enough to drive to the shop (bleeding solo without a pressure bleeder was hardly ideal).
A blockage in the caliper is something I never experienced and to be honest I don't see what could be so blocked that they cannot get something to flow. How did the fluid look that did flow from the front side?
How long did you go between fluid changes? Porsche recommends once every 2 years min.
#27
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Originally Posted by cobalt
A blockage in the caliper is something I never experienced and to be honest I don't see what could be so blocked that they cannot get something to flow. How did the fluid look that did flow from the front side?
Originally Posted by cobalt
How long did you go between fluid changes? Porsche recommends once every 2 years min.
There was a PPI and docs but they all might as well been printed on toilet paper as much as they seemed to relate to reality. The 4000 mile old clutch seems like the screwed up the install.. 18 months prior.. but it does seem better now that they bleed the clutch slave.
When I did bleed the fronts it looked like gold fluid (I pushed out blue to the front calipers, which I did remove fully, the rears I just pushed out of the way not opening the system at the rear.
#28
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Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
When I did bleed the fronts it looked like gold fluid (I pushed out blue to the front calipers, which I did remove fully, the rears I just pushed out of the way not opening the system at the rear.
I too would be wary of Schucks. They are at best questionable when it comes to parts. On a Camaro maybe, but on a Porsche, no!
On the other hand, check Pep Boys online and see if the caliper rebuilder is the same supplier as Schucks. if so, then why not?
Let us know how this turns out. Best of luck.
#29
Originally Posted by FotoVeloce
I had a chance to talk to the mechanic when I picked up the car. The big problem they were having is not being able to get any fluid to flow from the rear calipers. I suspect, as I've read elsewehre.. there is a waxy buildup from old fluid in the calipers which could be causing the sticking and prevented them from bleeding the system. Maybe they are worse off or perhaps not as bad as I first thought.