Help: Think I burned up power window motor
#1
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My passenger power window quit working.
I did some searches here, and discovered the window switches seem to be a weak link.
Here's what I did so far to try to isolate the problem:
1) took out all 3 window switches. Each individual switch worked for powering up/down the drivers window.
2) Inspected the fuses - can't find a blown fuse.
3) Traded the relay for the power windows with the sunroof relay. Sunroof still works, passenger power window still doesn't.
the only thing I can think of that's left is the actual motor. It worked a month ago, but last night it wouldn't work. I think the switch was stuck in the "up" position. Could that have burned out the motor?
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
I did some searches here, and discovered the window switches seem to be a weak link.
Here's what I did so far to try to isolate the problem:
1) took out all 3 window switches. Each individual switch worked for powering up/down the drivers window.
2) Inspected the fuses - can't find a blown fuse.
3) Traded the relay for the power windows with the sunroof relay. Sunroof still works, passenger power window still doesn't.
the only thing I can think of that's left is the actual motor. It worked a month ago, but last night it wouldn't work. I think the switch was stuck in the "up" position. Could that have burned out the motor?
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Do you hear the motor trying to work when actuated? Sometimes the motors are fine and the regulators bind up causing the windows not to work. I am no expert, but on my e36ic BMW, I had to change out both door regulators only- not the motors.
#3
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Both the driver and passenger side switches for the passenger side window must be installed and good for the window to operate, so if you were just swapping them one at a time that could be the problem.
#4
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Originally Posted by allill
Do you hear the motor trying to work when actuated? Sometimes the motors are fine and the regulators bind up causing the windows not to work. I am no expert, but on my e36ic BMW, I had to change out both door regulators only- not the motors.
#5
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Originally Posted by vjd3
Both the driver and passenger side switches for the passenger side window must be installed and good for the window to operate, so if you were just swapping them one at a time that could be the problem.
Any further thoughts?
Thanks for trying to help, all.
#6
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2005
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The only thing left to do is disconnect the harness from the suspect window motor and run leads directly to the motor in the door. I would use a battery that is removed from the car and not still connected to your car's system. Reversing the negative and positive lead should reverse the motor's direction. So if you have no result and the window is down reverse the leads and the window should go up -- if not I would suspect that the motor is indeed faulty.
By doing this you eliminate all other possible faults in the system. I would still take a reading at the harness's output to the affected motor. Use a multi-meter or a 12V test light to see if any power is being transmitted to the motor at the plug. If the light lights up or the meter shows a reading than you can be sure that the the motor is not responding and is the problem.
It is possible as allill suggested that the regulator is bound up, but I've had a lot of 911s and never had this occur.
Power window motors are fairly robust. Most that you come across acually will not shut off once they are in the fully up or fully down position. Rarely there is a micoswitch to cut the power once the window has reached the up or down limit and most often simply rely on the operator to let off of the switch. The amount of time the switch is held past the point that the window is fully up or down is usually never long enough to harm the motor. But with that said you did say the switch was stuck in the up position. Depending on the amount of time ( overnight?) it could certainly be long enough to fry the motor.
By doing this you eliminate all other possible faults in the system. I would still take a reading at the harness's output to the affected motor. Use a multi-meter or a 12V test light to see if any power is being transmitted to the motor at the plug. If the light lights up or the meter shows a reading than you can be sure that the the motor is not responding and is the problem.
It is possible as allill suggested that the regulator is bound up, but I've had a lot of 911s and never had this occur.
Power window motors are fairly robust. Most that you come across acually will not shut off once they are in the fully up or fully down position. Rarely there is a micoswitch to cut the power once the window has reached the up or down limit and most often simply rely on the operator to let off of the switch. The amount of time the switch is held past the point that the window is fully up or down is usually never long enough to harm the motor. But with that said you did say the switch was stuck in the up position. Depending on the amount of time ( overnight?) it could certainly be long enough to fry the motor.
#7
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Originally Posted by 901aero
The only thing left to do is disconnect the harness from the suspect window motor and run leads directly to the motor in the door. I would use a battery that is removed from the car and not still connected to your car's system. Reversing the negative and positive lead should reverse the motor's direction. So if you have no result and the window is down reverse the leads and the window should go up -- if not I would suspect that the motor is indeed faulty.
By doing this you eliminate all other possible faults in the system. I would still take a reading at the harness's output to the affected motor. Use a multi-meter or a 12V test light to see if any power is being transmitted to the motor at the plug. If the light lights up or the meter shows a reading than you can be sure that the the motor is not responding and is the problem.
It is possible as allill suggested that the regulator is bound up, but I've had a lot of 911s and never had this occur.
Power window motors are fairly robust. Most that you come across acually will not shut off once they are in the fully up or fully down position. Rarely there is a micoswitch to cut the power once the window has reached the up or down limit and most often simply rely on the operator to let off of the switch. The amount of time the switch is held past the point that the window is fully up or down is usually never long enough to harm the motor. But with that said you did say the switch was stuck in the up position. Depending on the amount of time ( overnight?) it could certainly be long enough to fry the motor.
By doing this you eliminate all other possible faults in the system. I would still take a reading at the harness's output to the affected motor. Use a multi-meter or a 12V test light to see if any power is being transmitted to the motor at the plug. If the light lights up or the meter shows a reading than you can be sure that the the motor is not responding and is the problem.
It is possible as allill suggested that the regulator is bound up, but I've had a lot of 911s and never had this occur.
Power window motors are fairly robust. Most that you come across acually will not shut off once they are in the fully up or fully down position. Rarely there is a micoswitch to cut the power once the window has reached the up or down limit and most often simply rely on the operator to let off of the switch. The amount of time the switch is held past the point that the window is fully up or down is usually never long enough to harm the motor. But with that said you did say the switch was stuck in the up position. Depending on the amount of time ( overnight?) it could certainly be long enough to fry the motor.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Mark in Baltimore
If you need window regulators and motors, I have a set since I just ditched mine to install a full cage with NASCAR bars.