Door Check Solutions?
06-19-2007, 11:32 AM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bremerton, WA
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Originally Posted by DTP993
I had mine TIG welded, which is a nicer appearing weld than a MIG weld. Barely noticeable and appears as factory after touching up with a brush. You will need to disconnect the battery and it is recommended to disconnect the wiring harness from the computer under the drivers seat.
UPDATE: Repair completed. Dropped the battery cables, they welded, I hooked them back up and drove off, only $50.00 poorer than I went in. A nice bunch of guys too. They also have a great cross-bar for racing belts that bolts into the 993 with a removable section for rear passenger access (my car spends most of it's time on the street right now). I should have an early prototype installed by the end of July!
Last edited by FotoVeloce; 06-19-2007 at 03:42 PM.
07-08-2007, 10:19 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Door Check Strap
Originally Posted by M491
Steve's pic on the first page is of the tab on the door post side.
The other side - on the door itself - will look something like this:
If it is this side that is causing the problem, you can save a lot of work if you catch it early. No welding required if you get it early, just remove the door panel and install a reinforcement kit and new check stop mechanism.
But if you let it go, you can really tear up the sheet metal. If you do that, it needs to be rebuilt up by welding in a new patch panel, etc. A lot more work.
The bottom line is this: The door should not click. If it does, it needs to be fixed, and there's no reason to put it off, as only more damage can occur.
The other side - on the door itself - will look something like this:
If it is this side that is causing the problem, you can save a lot of work if you catch it early. No welding required if you get it early, just remove the door panel and install a reinforcement kit and new check stop mechanism.
But if you let it go, you can really tear up the sheet metal. If you do that, it needs to be rebuilt up by welding in a new patch panel, etc. A lot more work.
The bottom line is this: The door should not click. If it does, it needs to be fixed, and there's no reason to put it off, as only more damage can occur.
I tried, and failed today. The problem may be that the reinforcement kit came with its required replacement door stay, which is for MY 1974-89. Not knowing if there was a difference I put everything together, only to find the door would not move at all - it was frozen in the wide open position.
I took everything apart and noticed that unlike the old one, the new door stay arm does not move within its housing, even with "persuasion." So I put my old clicking arm back pending a solution.
Does anyone have any ideas? I don't want to wait until the frame needs welding...
