Dudley

I found the power steering belt while I was replacing the right upper valve cover gaskets. I looked at it for a while and I did not see any easy way of replacing it with the engine in the car. I wonder if anyone other than Robin has changed it without dropping the engine.

Robin 993DX

First you will need to remove the belt cover, there are serveral bolts all around from top and bottom that holds the cover on. I believe the two top bolts also holds the PS pump in place. I bascially just slipped the belt off after I remove the cover. It wasn't easy, took some muscle and a pry bar.

Then you will need to access the allen bolts that holds the pump on from the inside of the housing by the pump gear. That's the hard part, almost impossible to reach from the bottom of the car.

Probably would have been easier to remove the cam shift gear if you have the right tool to hold the cam shaft in place while you loosen the bolt.

MadMarkie

DO NOT remove the drive pulley bolt without using the tool that Robin mentions to hold the pulley! There is a high probability of knocking the valve timing out of whack, as the timing pulley at the other end of the cam shaft is not keyed to the shaft. Ask me how I know It is possible to re-time the cams while the engine is in the car, but what a PITA.

Cheers, Mark.

black ice

My wifey is going to kick my butt when I tell her I need to blow 800 bucks.

Phil

Why? From what I recall........steering is a safety issue.NO?

C4S993

Doesn't the Porsche rack have a warranty from Porsche ?
So all you need is to pay the labor for a new one ?

Patrick

black ice

To answer your question Patrick, I bought the car with with a well-washed bottom and what must have been just a wet rack. After 5K miles, the rack started leaking out of the cover. After another 4K miles, the fluid was gushing. the pizza boxes on the floor in my garage were soaked. I had the paperwork from the PO and he had a rack installed not long ago - but I figured it would be a battle since I wasn't the purchaser. Besides, the ZF rebuild they put in leaked. Either the rebuild was bad or they just scratched the crud out of the shaft when they put it in.... At any rate, I was much happier putting in a rebuild I could count on and making sure it was done right. So, I finally bit the bullet and put in a rebuilt rack Saturday.

Some observations on the install if any of you decide to do ione yourself:
* Try to borrow a lift if at all possible. It was much easier that way and still took me (a novice) about six hours. Getting those boots on was a b-tch.
* I read the DIY at p-car.com. There are many good DIYs there but in this case get a copy of the procedure from the factory workshop manual. The P-car page says to unscrew the tie rod ends, when it's not necessary at all. Simply unscrew the ball joints from the rack and leave the tie rods attached to the ball joints. No effect on alignment whatsoever.
* P-car recommends pulling the airbag off and recentering the wheel. I would not want to do that for fear of triggering the airbag light. A friend told me that if you unlock the wheel with the airbag off and turn the wheel, the light will go on and you can't get it off without a factory tool. I was able to get the rack in, center it and put in the centering bolt (goes into a hole in the bottom of the rack), then push the u-joint on the steering rod in the passenger compartment down onto the shaft. I was one tooth off but I think I can pull the shaft back up and get it down so that the steerign wheel is centered.

Just some thoughts in case you are headed into DIY territory.

Dave

JasonAndreas

As long as the battery is disconnected (and you want it to be before you disconnect the airbag) you won't trigger an airbag fault.

chris walrod

As a public service measure, one doesnt have to remove the airbag [to center the clock spring] is the wheel isnt moved off center. Once the column is free from the rack, the wheel can be turned 360 deg either way and if connected to the rack one turn off, the clock spring will have to be reset.

C4S993

I ordered from Hendrick Porsche their on "sale" rebuilt 993 rack, just a tad under $600. 2 years warranty from Porsche. A few days earlier I was at Authohaus Porsche and they never noted the "sale" and wanted tad over $800. The latter wants about $1,200 to install. The latter does accept original Porsche parts on a customer carry in basis which is nice as fearing sudden death I took their $2300 offer to have my Hendrick Porsche clutch + flywheel and kit installed.

I have changed racks before on a Jag E type as wel as a Z1 Vette and I never could get the steering wheel back to it's original status. I will try your tips.

I do not have access to a lift, I use those $50 black ramps, I am scared of the regular car jacks due to possible shifting.


Thanks again, Patrick

PS: I just changed the plugs, so I have lots of patience.

Flying Finn

FYI,

If you want to get rid of the power steering, you can replace the rack with 964 non power steering rack.

black ice

Hey Finn,
If this rack starts leaking that's EXACTLY what I'm going to do....

and Jasonandreas, thanks - I didn't think about just taking it off of the battery....

John H

either go with the 964 non-power rack or check Autozone. I bought mine replacement rack there several years ago and it has a lifetime guarantee. It seems to me they may have quit selling them but I do recall being in your position and trying like hell to save what I could. Alignment is necessary after replacing the rack BTW.

edit* here's a LINK

Sorry no savings but...