I can't seem to find the part # in my parts list and diagrams.
For MY95 but I suspect they are all the same part #

Thanks

 

SAI check valve part number is: 993 113 250 03.

 

Many thanks Eric. I still could not even find it even with your number then realized I was searching throught the ROW parts list. Duh!
I found it n the NA parts list.

 

Here u go -- 993-113-250-02 (or sometimes it ends in 03)

http://i-fly.freeyellow.com/miscell/...k/image002.htm

(You can click on the 'Previous' and 'Next' buttons to see the other pics)

That's what mine looked like after it was removed recently!

It took the 'experienced wrench' 4 hours and he had to fashion his own tool - a modified crows-foot. He said it took a LOT of 'soaking' to get it to budge.

Still, for those of us who live in states where a CEL / anything emissions-related can, literally, ground your car, I figured that changing it every 30K miles is good 'insurance' and conforms to Rennlist-conventional-wisdom too.

Gerry

 

+1, Im a copy cat.

 

Ok, you have the valve part number, now Sears sells the required crows foot set, use the Standard set, not the metric. Take the largest one grind it down until its thin enough to fit between the engine manifold and the shoulders of the valve. Then open it up to fit the valve itself.

Now go to the gym, work out for a couple of weeks, you'll need the strength to break the valve loose.

I did mine, this way, ground the crowsfoot with a bench grinder, the valve came out with moderate force. The other issue will be blowing the ports out. Once several of them open the rest will not build up enough pressure to clear. P-car.com (huge help) states to use gum to block the cleared ones and try and clear the others....never worked for me.

Just remember to use a seal washer upon reassembly.

 

Thanks again for all the encouragement and information.
I already checked out the P-car DIY. I have not yet started the project.
It looks like an exercise in frustration. The biggest problem I have is me. That is, my initial plan was to replace mufflers. Then figured perhaps do cat bypass. Well, since I am there can take off heat exchangers since it's time for plugs and lower wires looking a bit dried out and cracked. Why not do an SAI flush already 3/4 way there! (did have a recent brief CEL but mechanic said it was one of those "don't worry about it codes" hmmm. Got to check what the number was because funny suspicion I know what it was! Of course here in FL he's still right! I'll keep you posted!

 

Dumb question: so once you've replaced the valve the first time, is it any easier the next time? I thought you should replace them fairly often?

 

Yes, it's easier the second time around. I think most who had a problem had a 8-10 year-old valve that was never replaced & was rusted in. The general concensus is to replace every 10-15K miles, so next time around shouldn't be too much of a problem. BTW, the check valve doesn't need heavy tightening - snug & a tug. Be sure to replace the crush washer as well.

 

Not dumb at all. I coated my new one with anti-seize just to be sure.

My original was tough to get off, but not nearly as bad as some others here, apparently. I rigged up a set of extensions off the modified crow's foot and used my longest breaker bar, with an extension to provide some, ahem, leverage. With the cheater bar it came right off.

Jason