Mobil 1 15w-50 vs. 15w-50 Extended Life
03-20-2007, 10:26 PM
#77
Three Wheelin'
Okay, here is my $0.02. I have spoken with some experts and exchanged e-mails with others.
1. Problems correlated with reduction/changes in AW additives must be real-- the camshaft companies and engine builders would not make this up. In the Porsche world, some folks have reported problems/issues which may correlate to reduction/changes in AW additives. Correlation does NOT mean cause/effect. Most of the problems/issues discussed are in the cam area.
2. I do not know how we determine the proper level of the AW additive ZDDP for Porsche air cooled engines. It seems that folks are assuming that levels from past types of oil must be okay, since there "weren't any problems." That seems like a decent assumption, though is hardly scientific. Or pehaps we just think the levels in the factory fill are sufficient. But the factory fill has changed over time. Do we know exact ZDDP or other AW levels over time? Does PAG specify? I do not think so.
3. It seems possible that oil companies have started developing/using different AW additives as opposed to ZDDP which is apparently harmful to cats over time. If so, how do we know they aren't as good as ZDDP for our engines, from a science perspective?
4. Mobil 1 has been making lots of changes to their oils. But as far as I can determine, they have no publicly-stated levels of ZDDP or other AW additives. In addition, they may have made other changes to their oils which we do not know about, and may not be optimal for our engines. And, perhaps more importantly, they make future, unannounced changes. For example, what is to stop them from changing the V-Twin product and not telling anybody? And why haven't they or any other oil brands/companies addressed the concerns of the community in a direct fashion? Probaly legal issues. I respect that, but I don't have to necessarily live with it.
5. Charles at ln engineering has been kind enough to have many oil samples tested. But without some type of production date codes, lot numbers or other time references, how can we rely on the data over time? And why should we expect him to keep doing this on his time/dime? And mistakes and miscommunications are possible.
My personal conclusions:
1. Engine is a racing 3.8 liter unit. Just rebuilt with new bearings, rings and cams.
2. I cannot trust Mobil 1. They are not explicit about what they have done and when they have done it. I just cannot know what is or is not in their products, and possible effects on my engine. I was using Mobil 1 15w-50 for the past 10 years. When I learned about all of this, I decided to return my 60 quart inventory to Walmart. It was all purchased this past Winter at somewhere between $5.50 and $6 per quart, in convenient 5 quart jugs. All SM rated.
3. I will use Redline Racing oil for break-in and thereafter. Why?
a) I can get it on a discount for under $7 per quart. Not too much more $$. I can get it pretty conveniently from at least three different places for around that price.
b) Redline are a local, NorCal company, and I can network through several people to the management/owners if I need to get the truth. I have spoken to two of their technical people by just calling their 800 number and getting directy connected. No BS or funny business. No bashing competitors. One of the two is a Porsche guy.
c) Contrary to the info in Charle's table, Redline oils are not API rated, so they don't have to meet any minimum standards for AW additives like ZDDP or other chemicals.
d) I'll probably use their street/performance oils instead of Mobil 1 for my other cars. If Redline change their formulations, I trust them to do the science necessary to get things right. If I still had my street 993 cab, I'd switch to the Redline.
Thanks to those experts that have commented on this, and especially to Charles for trying really hard to make sense of it all.
- Mike
PCA
Porsche Racing Club
1. Problems correlated with reduction/changes in AW additives must be real-- the camshaft companies and engine builders would not make this up. In the Porsche world, some folks have reported problems/issues which may correlate to reduction/changes in AW additives. Correlation does NOT mean cause/effect. Most of the problems/issues discussed are in the cam area.
2. I do not know how we determine the proper level of the AW additive ZDDP for Porsche air cooled engines. It seems that folks are assuming that levels from past types of oil must be okay, since there "weren't any problems." That seems like a decent assumption, though is hardly scientific. Or pehaps we just think the levels in the factory fill are sufficient. But the factory fill has changed over time. Do we know exact ZDDP or other AW levels over time? Does PAG specify? I do not think so.
3. It seems possible that oil companies have started developing/using different AW additives as opposed to ZDDP which is apparently harmful to cats over time. If so, how do we know they aren't as good as ZDDP for our engines, from a science perspective?
4. Mobil 1 has been making lots of changes to their oils. But as far as I can determine, they have no publicly-stated levels of ZDDP or other AW additives. In addition, they may have made other changes to their oils which we do not know about, and may not be optimal for our engines. And, perhaps more importantly, they make future, unannounced changes. For example, what is to stop them from changing the V-Twin product and not telling anybody? And why haven't they or any other oil brands/companies addressed the concerns of the community in a direct fashion? Probaly legal issues. I respect that, but I don't have to necessarily live with it.
5. Charles at ln engineering has been kind enough to have many oil samples tested. But without some type of production date codes, lot numbers or other time references, how can we rely on the data over time? And why should we expect him to keep doing this on his time/dime? And mistakes and miscommunications are possible.
My personal conclusions:
1. Engine is a racing 3.8 liter unit. Just rebuilt with new bearings, rings and cams.
2. I cannot trust Mobil 1. They are not explicit about what they have done and when they have done it. I just cannot know what is or is not in their products, and possible effects on my engine. I was using Mobil 1 15w-50 for the past 10 years. When I learned about all of this, I decided to return my 60 quart inventory to Walmart. It was all purchased this past Winter at somewhere between $5.50 and $6 per quart, in convenient 5 quart jugs. All SM rated.
3. I will use Redline Racing oil for break-in and thereafter. Why?
a) I can get it on a discount for under $7 per quart. Not too much more $$. I can get it pretty conveniently from at least three different places for around that price.
b) Redline are a local, NorCal company, and I can network through several people to the management/owners if I need to get the truth. I have spoken to two of their technical people by just calling their 800 number and getting directy connected. No BS or funny business. No bashing competitors. One of the two is a Porsche guy.
c) Contrary to the info in Charle's table, Redline oils are not API rated, so they don't have to meet any minimum standards for AW additives like ZDDP or other chemicals.
d) I'll probably use their street/performance oils instead of Mobil 1 for my other cars. If Redline change their formulations, I trust them to do the science necessary to get things right. If I still had my street 993 cab, I'd switch to the Redline.
Thanks to those experts that have commented on this, and especially to Charles for trying really hard to make sense of it all.
- Mike
PCA
Porsche Racing Club
03-20-2007, 11:32 PM
#78
Three Wheelin'
Oh jeez, for crying out loud.
Steve - you really think Porsche changed the spec on oil for "expediency and convenience?" I mean, what - they would have to carry THREE grades of oil or something? If you look at the current TSB they cite many manufacturers and many grades.
Listen, I'm not attacking you Steve. Just surprised that we together give no weight to what Porsche specifies. What's in it for them to update a spec with a self-serving figure when the vast majority of us don't even bring our 993s to the dealer for repair/maintenance?? So in that respect I question much of what I'm hearing here.
I am not seeing any scientific method when it comes to engine wear and oil type/viscosity. Several here that work on engines as a profession say they "see more wear" in cars using a particular oil. I am the fourth owner of my 95 and not only has each owner used a different oil, I can see in the receipts where each has used varying types or viscosities.
As far as logic goes, I wonder why most think a 40 weight is too light for a hot viscosity. Air/oil cooleds certainly don't have the consistent temps of water cooleds - but even sitting in traffic, I only temporarily hit about 215F. On the cold side, given that our engines take a (relatively) long time to warm up, wouldn't a 0 cold rating be better?
Help me understand..... and thank you for reading my diatribe...
Steve - you really think Porsche changed the spec on oil for "expediency and convenience?" I mean, what - they would have to carry THREE grades of oil or something? If you look at the current TSB they cite many manufacturers and many grades.
Listen, I'm not attacking you Steve. Just surprised that we together give no weight to what Porsche specifies. What's in it for them to update a spec with a self-serving figure when the vast majority of us don't even bring our 993s to the dealer for repair/maintenance?? So in that respect I question much of what I'm hearing here.
I am not seeing any scientific method when it comes to engine wear and oil type/viscosity. Several here that work on engines as a profession say they "see more wear" in cars using a particular oil. I am the fourth owner of my 95 and not only has each owner used a different oil, I can see in the receipts where each has used varying types or viscosities.
As far as logic goes, I wonder why most think a 40 weight is too light for a hot viscosity. Air/oil cooleds certainly don't have the consistent temps of water cooleds - but even sitting in traffic, I only temporarily hit about 215F. On the cold side, given that our engines take a (relatively) long time to warm up, wouldn't a 0 cold rating be better?
Help me understand..... and thank you for reading my diatribe...
03-21-2007, 02:23 AM
#79
Rennlist Member
I posted this on the bird board, which is relevant to Mike's cross posting:
I want to point out that I do state after the sampling that having spoken to Redline directly, that their street oils have ~1400 ppm of Zn and P and the non-detergent race oils are up in the 2400 ppm range. Redline makes a good oil, don't get me wrong. Both the m1 vtwin and redline oils are excellent choices regardless.
My attempt to address dating on the oils goes to the API code, but I think I will add a "tested on" date as well per Mike's suggestion.
Once I have a handful of oils that I will use and recommend regularly, I will plan on testing them yearly at the least to ensure that there are no changes. It's just hard to determine which oils I want to focus on. In the sub $5 a quart range, the answer was easy, the Brad Penn. In the $5-10+ range, that is a different story.
I want to point out that I do state after the sampling that having spoken to Redline directly, that their street oils have ~1400 ppm of Zn and P and the non-detergent race oils are up in the 2400 ppm range. Redline makes a good oil, don't get me wrong. Both the m1 vtwin and redline oils are excellent choices regardless.
My attempt to address dating on the oils goes to the API code, but I think I will add a "tested on" date as well per Mike's suggestion.
Once I have a handful of oils that I will use and recommend regularly, I will plan on testing them yearly at the least to ensure that there are no changes. It's just hard to determine which oils I want to focus on. In the sub $5 a quart range, the answer was easy, the Brad Penn. In the $5-10+ range, that is a different story.
03-21-2007, 02:18 PM
#80
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by black ice
Oh jeez, for crying out loud.
Steve - you really think Porsche changed the spec on oil for "expediency and convenience?" I mean, what - they would have to carry THREE grades of oil or something? If you look at the current TSB they cite many manufacturers and many grades.
Listen, I'm not attacking you Steve. Just surprised that we together give no weight to what Porsche specifies. What's in it for them to update a spec with a self-serving figure when the vast majority of us don't even bring our 993s to the dealer for repair/maintenance?? So in that respect I question much of what I'm hearing here.
I am not seeing any scientific method when it comes to engine wear and oil type/viscosity. Several here that work on engines as a profession say they "see more wear" in cars using a particular oil. I am the fourth owner of my 95 and not only has each owner used a different oil, I can see in the receipts where each has used varying types or viscosities.
As far as logic goes, I wonder why most think a 40 weight is too light for a hot viscosity. Air/oil cooleds certainly don't have the consistent temps of water cooleds - but even sitting in traffic, I only temporarily hit about 215F. On the cold side, given that our engines take a (relatively) long time to warm up, wouldn't a 0 cold rating be better?
Help me understand..... and thank you for reading my diatribe...
Steve - you really think Porsche changed the spec on oil for "expediency and convenience?" I mean, what - they would have to carry THREE grades of oil or something? If you look at the current TSB they cite many manufacturers and many grades.
Listen, I'm not attacking you Steve. Just surprised that we together give no weight to what Porsche specifies. What's in it for them to update a spec with a self-serving figure when the vast majority of us don't even bring our 993s to the dealer for repair/maintenance?? So in that respect I question much of what I'm hearing here.
I am not seeing any scientific method when it comes to engine wear and oil type/viscosity. Several here that work on engines as a profession say they "see more wear" in cars using a particular oil. I am the fourth owner of my 95 and not only has each owner used a different oil, I can see in the receipts where each has used varying types or viscosities.
As far as logic goes, I wonder why most think a 40 weight is too light for a hot viscosity. Air/oil cooleds certainly don't have the consistent temps of water cooleds - but even sitting in traffic, I only temporarily hit about 215F. On the cold side, given that our engines take a (relatively) long time to warm up, wouldn't a 0 cold rating be better?
Help me understand..... and thank you for reading my diatribe...
I cannot tell you WHY Porsche does anything nowadays,....they certainly are not the same company as I when I began...
I cannot debate any altruistic reasons about what they currently recommend aside from the observation of a potential conflict of interest on their part. Just my opinion, of course.I can tell you that simple expediency suggests that recommending and stocking ONE grade of oil; e. g. 0w-40, for all cars makes things much easier for dealers, shops, what have you. Its a real hassle and not to mention very expensive to keep several grades of oils in quantity for air-cooled, water-cooled and race cars.
I, like many professionals in this business, just do not have the time to employ the scientific method to test engine part wear against lubrication as much as we'd like to do that. I'm just as curious as you are; perhaps more so since this is how I've made my living for the past 30+ years. Instead, we rely on long-term experience and powers of observation to notice trends and frankly, this has worked very well for me; albeit not using the "scientific method" of controls. In most cases, we are able to catch things before they become a problem for our customers and thats our "Mission".
All I can do is offer you & others the result of simple observations when I see them and hopefully, others might see some value from those kinds of experiences. Like I originally posted both here and on Pelican, we noticed the increased cam & rocker arm wear several years ago to a degree that was NOT present from 1976 to date. Those engines were carefully inspected to see if spray bars were obstructed, as thats been the main cause for that type of wear and damage.
Mr. Navarro's oil analysis has been enlightening, to say the very least as we've tried to assess why this happens more frequently than before.
I do not have an agenda nor "Standard of Truth" here; I just look at the preponderance of the evidence and it suggested that something changed and thankfully, Mr. Navarro's generous oil analysis tested gave a strong clue what was happening. Further, my peers in other areas of this industry made similar observations, based on what they have seen.....this issue is NOT just restricted to Porsche motors.
At the end of the day (I've always wanted to write that phrase), its your car and you should do what YOU are most comfortable with,....
My ONLY priority is my customer's interests and financial well-being and for those reasons, I will make specific recommendation to those fine folks who are kind enough to patronize us, and rely on our advice for maximum engine & component life of their cars.
Thank you for your post and "diatribe"; its not only quite relevant and constructive but adds to the 'Rennlist Experience' and value for all participants.
Last edited by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems; 03-21-2007 at 02:55 PM.
03-21-2007, 02:31 PM
#81
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Rennlist Member
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Well Steve, I will send you my heads when that job someday become necessary
. So will you please take all the mental effort out of it for me and just tell me what to put in my car when I do an oil change this weekend? I have a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 15W-50 Extended Perf. that I bought about four months ago. So I had wanted to use that. But I need to buy another jug of something. What should I do?
. So will you please take all the mental effort out of it for me and just tell me what to put in my car when I do an oil change this weekend? I have a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 15W-50 Extended Perf. that I bought about four months ago. So I had wanted to use that. But I need to buy another jug of something. What should I do?
03-21-2007, 02:32 PM
#82
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi:
I cannot tell you WHY Porsche does anything nowadays,....they certainly are not the same company as I when I began... I will not debate any altruistic reasons for what they currently recommend aside from the observation of a potential conflict of interest on their part. Just my opinion, of course.
I can tell you that simple expediency suggests that recommending and stocking ONE grade of oil; e. g. 0w-40, for all cars makes things much easier for dealers, shops, what have you. Its a real hassle and not to mention very expensive to keep several grades of oils in quantity for air-cooled, water-cooled and race cars.
I, like many professionals in this business, just do not have the time to employ the scientific method test engine parts wear against lubrication as much as we'd like to do that. I'm just as curious as you are; perhaps more so since this is how I've made my living for the past 30+ years. Instead, we rely on long-term experience and powers of observation to notice trends and frankly, this has worked very well for me; albeit not using the "scientific method" of controls. In most cases, we are able to catch things before they become a problem for our customers and thats our "Mission".
All I can do is offer you & others the result of simple observations when I see them and hopefully, others might see some value from those kinds of experiences. Like I originally posted both here and on Pelican, we noticed the increased cam & rocker arm wear several years ago to a degree that was NOT present from 1976 to date. Those engines were carefully inspected to see if spray bars were obstructed, as thats been the main cause for that type of wear and damage.
Mr. Navarro's oil analysis has been enlightening, to say the very least as we've tried to assess why this happens more frequently than before.
I do not have an agenda nor "Standard of Truth" here; I just look at the preponderance of the evidence and it suggested that something changed and thankfully, Mr. Navarro's generous oil analysis tested gave a strong clue what was happening. Further, my peers in other areas of this industry made similar observations, based on what they have seen.....this issue is NOT just restricted to Porsche motors.
At the end of the day (I've always wanted to write that phrase), its your car and you should do what YOU are most comfortable with,....
My ONLY priority is my customer's interests and financial well-being and for those reasons, I will make specific recommendation to those fine folks who are kind enough to patronize us, and rely on our advice for maximum engine & component life of their cars.
Thank you for your post and "diatribe"; its not only quite relevant and constructive but adds to the 'Rennlist Experience' and value for all participants.
I cannot tell you WHY Porsche does anything nowadays,....they certainly are not the same company as I when I began...
I will not debate any altruistic reasons for what they currently recommend aside from the observation of a potential conflict of interest on their part. Just my opinion, of course.I can tell you that simple expediency suggests that recommending and stocking ONE grade of oil; e. g. 0w-40, for all cars makes things much easier for dealers, shops, what have you. Its a real hassle and not to mention very expensive to keep several grades of oils in quantity for air-cooled, water-cooled and race cars.
I, like many professionals in this business, just do not have the time to employ the scientific method test engine parts wear against lubrication as much as we'd like to do that. I'm just as curious as you are; perhaps more so since this is how I've made my living for the past 30+ years. Instead, we rely on long-term experience and powers of observation to notice trends and frankly, this has worked very well for me; albeit not using the "scientific method" of controls. In most cases, we are able to catch things before they become a problem for our customers and thats our "Mission".
All I can do is offer you & others the result of simple observations when I see them and hopefully, others might see some value from those kinds of experiences. Like I originally posted both here and on Pelican, we noticed the increased cam & rocker arm wear several years ago to a degree that was NOT present from 1976 to date. Those engines were carefully inspected to see if spray bars were obstructed, as thats been the main cause for that type of wear and damage.
Mr. Navarro's oil analysis has been enlightening, to say the very least as we've tried to assess why this happens more frequently than before.
I do not have an agenda nor "Standard of Truth" here; I just look at the preponderance of the evidence and it suggested that something changed and thankfully, Mr. Navarro's generous oil analysis tested gave a strong clue what was happening. Further, my peers in other areas of this industry made similar observations, based on what they have seen.....this issue is NOT just restricted to Porsche motors.
At the end of the day (I've always wanted to write that phrase), its your car and you should do what YOU are most comfortable with,....
My ONLY priority is my customer's interests and financial well-being and for those reasons, I will make specific recommendation to those fine folks who are kind enough to patronize us, and rely on our advice for maximum engine & component life of their cars.
Thank you for your post and "diatribe"; its not only quite relevant and constructive but adds to the 'Rennlist Experience' and value for all participants.
Forget Rudy, McCain, Obama, etc. for Prez. I vote for Steve Weiner.
03-21-2007, 03:02 PM
#83
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by Rick Lee
Well Steve, I will send you my heads when that job someday become necessary. So will you please take all the mental effort out of it for me and just tell me what to put in my car when I do an oil change this weekend? I have a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 15W-50 Extended Perf. that I bought about four months ago. So I had wanted to use that. But I need to buy another jug of something. What should I do?
. So will you please take all the mental effort out of it for me and just tell me what to put in my car when I do an oil change this weekend? I have a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 15W-50 Extended Perf. that I bought about four months ago. So I had wanted to use that. But I need to buy another jug of something. What should I do?Good question.
Currently, Mr. Navarro is testing the new non-EP Mobil 1 15w-50 formulation to see what thats all about so hopefully, they have restored the ZDDP levels to their previous satisfactory levels.
Look on your jug of Mobil 1 and if its SM-rated, I would add a bottle of GM's Cam & Lifter Prelube (available at Chevy dealers) to your oil change. If its the older SL stuff, you'll be fine.
03-21-2007, 03:29 PM
#84
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Steve wrote "..Like I originally posted both here and on Pelican, we noticed the increased cam & rocker arm wear several years ago to a degree that was NOT present from 1976 to date. Those engines were carefully inspected to see if spray bars were obstructed, as thats been the main cause for that type of wear and damage."
So Steve, are you saying that the increased wear first showed up a couple years ago? If that's true then does that not imply that the levels of ZDDP may have been inadequate even before the new SM API spec came out (lowering those levels further)?
My head hurts...
So Steve, are you saying that the increased wear first showed up a couple years ago? If that's true then does that not imply that the levels of ZDDP may have been inadequate even before the new SM API spec came out (lowering those levels further)?
My head hurts...
03-21-2007, 03:58 PM
#85
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Rick:
Good question.
Currently, Mr. Navarro is testing the new non-EP Mobil 1 15w-50 formulation to see what thats all about so hopefully, they have restored the ZDDP levels to their previous satisfactory levels.
Look on your jug of Mobil 1 and if its SM-rated, I would add a bottle of GM's Cam & Lifter Prelube (available at Chevy dealers) to your oil change. If its the older SL stuff, you'll be fine.
Good question.
Currently, Mr. Navarro is testing the new non-EP Mobil 1 15w-50 formulation to see what thats all about so hopefully, they have restored the ZDDP levels to their previous satisfactory levels.
Look on your jug of Mobil 1 and if its SM-rated, I would add a bottle of GM's Cam & Lifter Prelube (available at Chevy dealers) to your oil change. If its the older SL stuff, you'll be fine.
03-21-2007, 05:43 PM
#86
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Do you think that people had the same delima when they discontinued "Gee Your Hair Smells Terrific" or "Agree" shampoo back in 70's?
Maybe Mobil 1 will be like Coke. The old formula was great and then they came out with the new formula and it sucked so they went back to the "classic" formula.
Maybe there will be a Classic Mobil 1 15-50 in the near future.
My grandpa has been drinking tap water for 88 years and he's still running strong, drives a car, and hops on airplanes with no problems.
I say I will put whatever oil is recommended in my C4. I refuse to get to analitcal about it.
Maybe Mobil 1 will be like Coke. The old formula was great and then they came out with the new formula and it sucked so they went back to the "classic" formula.
Maybe there will be a Classic Mobil 1 15-50 in the near future.
My grandpa has been drinking tap water for 88 years and he's still running strong, drives a car, and hops on airplanes with no problems.
I say I will put whatever oil is recommended in my C4. I refuse to get to analitcal about it.
03-21-2007, 05:57 PM
#87
King of Cool
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I'm just about to change my oil and will get Motul 300V Ester Synthetic 4-Stroke 10W40 oil (they also have 15W50 and I haven't decided whether I'll get 10W40 or 15W50).
Steve (or someone else who might know), any opinions?
Steve (or someone else who might know), any opinions?
03-21-2007, 06:02 PM
#88
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGG GGGGGGGGGGGGG WTF.... 
....My engine has just hit 100,000 miles has always sipped 15-50 and now she will not get what she wants... 
....I dont want to use the lighter oils as people says it increases wear and leaks in my older well used engine 
, I dont want to use the newer oils as they will offer less wear protection ......maybe I should just put her away until somebody sorts this out 
......but wait, how will I get to work....oh s#*t... 
...what to do, an oil change looms on the horizon and my oil cupboard has 6 quarts of good ole 15-50 before it was messed with and nothing else, Walmart is devoid of any 15-50........crap.....as if life was not complicated enough 
....My engine has just hit 100,000 miles has always sipped 15-50 and now she will not get what she wants... ....I dont want to use the lighter oils as people says it increases wear and leaks in my older well used engine , I dont want to use the newer oils as they will offer less wear protection ......maybe I should just put her away until somebody sorts this out ......but wait, how will I get to work....oh s#*t... ...what to do, an oil change looms on the horizon and my oil cupboard has 6 quarts of good ole 15-50 before it was messed with and nothing else, Walmart is devoid of any 15-50........crap.....as if life was not complicated enough
03-21-2007, 06:16 PM
#89
Rennlist Member
Crisco vs. Mazola
I have been faithfully running my 993 on good 'ol Crisco, but the change in formulations to hydrogenated oil has me concerned. Plus its real thick on startup - great for a pie crust, but not so good for the lifters...
Am thinking about switching to Mazola corn based oil in a lighter viscosity. Am a little concerned with high temp frying, uh, driving though.
Comments?
Am thinking about switching to Mazola corn based oil in a lighter viscosity. Am a little concerned with high temp frying, uh, driving though.
Comments?
03-21-2007, 06:33 PM
#90
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Originally Posted by dhicks
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGG GGGGGGGGGGGGG WTF.... ....My engine has just hit 100,000 miles has always sipped 15-50 and now she will not get what she wants... ....I dont want to use the lighter oils as people says it increases wear and leaks in my older well used engine , I dont want to use the newer oils as they will offer less wear protection ......maybe I should just put her away until somebody sorts this out ......but wait, how will I get to work....oh s#*t... ...what to do, an oil change looms on the horizon and my oil cupboard has 6 quarts of good ole 15-50 before it was messed with and nothing else, Walmart is devoid of any 15-50........crap.....as if life was not complicated enough
....My engine has just hit 100,000 miles has always sipped 15-50 and now she will not get what she wants... ....I dont want to use the lighter oils as people says it increases wear and leaks in my older well used engine , I dont want to use the newer oils as they will offer less wear protection ......maybe I should just put her away until somebody sorts this out ......but wait, how will I get to work....oh s#*t... ...what to do, an oil change looms on the horizon and my oil cupboard has 6 quarts of good ole 15-50 before it was messed with and nothing else, Walmart is devoid of any 15-50........crap.....as if life was not complicated enough I've been considering the 5W-40 Rotella Synth but will that be too light of an oil? It's not that hot here (never once hit 100F in this part of the state), but I do travel to NorCal from time to time and sounds like I'll need to load up with a heavier oil before my summer road trips.
Arg.... what to do? Now I'm so confused. I've been following another oil thread but it's more relevant to the boiler crowd.
HELP! I need to swap oil on both my 1990 and 1995 3.6's