Peter R.

This weekend I'm going to start getting the 993 roadworthy again, which means changing out the starter motor, and changing sparkies and filters while I am in there.

I'll have to do this outside since :

- I don't own a garage
- It's parked outside, and it's bricked anyway (faulty starter).

I've read the diy on p-car. So if anyone has any tips regarding jacking the car up, removing the undertray, or whatever, I'd like to hear from you.

Thanks,

Peter

InTheAir

p-car.com should have all you need to know with regard to jacking the car. Not too hard.

BS911

Hey Peter... I just removed/installed my starter about 6 times this past weekend. (Long story)

I'd make the following recommendations above and beyond what is on p-car. Although I would say the p-car DIY was spot on and I found the job much more doable than my original apprehension felt.

Anyway.

You may not have to disconnect the half shaft from the tranny. The starter is a tight fit and you have to turn, twist, rotate, etc., for a while to get it down and past the shaft, but it is possible. On your first attempt though, it might make things more complicated, but if you felt like trying, it may be worth a shot and could save you about 20 minutes or so.

Before you install the new/rebuilt starter... look at where your ground strap connects to the starter housing - on the bottom hex mounting bolt. My rebuilt starter was completely painted - insulating it from a proper ground. If yours is that way, make sure you scrape/sand off all paint at the ground connection. I did the same on the back side where the starter contacts the transmission housing.

For that elusive top bolt. I didn't need all those swivels. Just a good 10mm hex socket and enough extension to reach the length of the starter motor body, but not too far where you can't get a ratchet on it. I didn't go the route of hands over the top of the transmission or anything like that. I didn't even use a "Feeler" hand on the nut itself. I just slid the socket/extension up over the back of the motor and felt around with it until I made contact. Took about 3 minutes. It helps to feel for where it is first, obviously. I couldn't get the socket on while it was attached to the ratchet though - it degraded the "feel" of things.

For jacking the car up - I got the rear end as high as I could and still be sturdy on jack stands. In reality, you don't need it any higher than you would for a normal oil change. You will spend a good bit of time with a good bit of your body under there. I'm over paranoid so I had the car on 2 jack stands, the jack as a backup, and a rear wheel as a 3rd backup. I hate laying almost completely under the car. I "went in" from the right rear wheel - not the back of the car.

Be sure of your battery status. A weak battery will cause your starter motor to spin, but not engage the flywheel. If you know it is your starter and not just your battery, that is fine... but also be aware that especially if your car sat a while and may have a weak battery, that when you put the new starter in you might get the same problem with it not engaging. Charge that battery up first or even replace it. That is what I had to do.

Finally, and MOST IMPORTANT... before you reconnect the halfshaft (if you removed it) and before you start tidying things up and bolting stuff back together... test start the car. Twice... no... about 5 times at least. I could have saved myself a lot of time that way.

Hope this helps.

Peter R.

Thanks for all that Bryan, no BS for sure ! I will post how I get on.

I'm still a bit miffed aboud jacking the car up, doing the 'place jack under engine but first jack car up to remove tray so you can place jack under engine' boogie.

I gues I''l have to make due with a pair of jacks, some concrete blocka and an couple of axle stands.

Incidentally, how tall are your axle stands (retracted and extended) ? The ones I use for the Land Rover may be a bit tallish

Peter R.

BS911

I think if you jack the car up just a little from one jack point or the other at the rear wheels you can get all the engine tray bolts. Then put the car down and go to the back and lift from the engine. I could say "now just throw that engine tray out so you don't have to worry about it again" but we don't want to start that here. My engine tray is ... in the attic space over the garage... I think. I agree though about lifting the rear of our cars. If only there was a 2nd "approved" jack or jack stand point on each SIDE of the rear of the car, it would save a lot of juggling.

My jack stands are on the small-ish side. But I did have them extended up pretty high. I would venture to say that I had the passenger rear side up about 16 inches at the jack point with the jack stand on the jack point.

Monique

Peter,

Unlike others before me, I suggest you remove the right half shaft. (10 minutes) Then take pics of your starter connections.

Then out it comes without fuss. Replacement is also much faster. Then 10 minute job replacing the shaft. I suggest you use LocTite (lightweight stuff on the bolts)

Wish I could offer my garage and assistance but my own car is in pieces on the floor... project going far too slowly... too busy these days.

Good luck

Peter R.

Reading from the diy I found the job a bit daunting (being use do work on a Land Rover, where the primary tools are a big spanner, a large screwdriver and a heavy persuader), but you guys have defused me somewhat.

Thanks guys. What a nice place to hang out this is.

Peter R.

Peter R.

Well, I did some stuff so far, but the leg is playing up, so I'm calling it quits for the day.

I've got everything dismantled up to the point where the only thing left to do is take the 2 10mm Allen bolts out and remove the starter. How in damnation I am supposed to reach that back bolt, however, will remain a mystery for a few more days.

I haven't a clue, really. I've read the write up on p-car, but the guy must be a contortionist with 1" thick arms. Bugger.

Oh well. Will resume later. Off to have a nic hot bath and give the hip a rest.

Peter R.

Peter R.

How do I get the brass sleeve out of the starter housing ? Yhere's a new one supplied, but I'm at a loss on how to remove it. From it's purpose I would gather it's wedged in there.

Peter R.

BS911

No idea on the brass sleeve, no swap of parts was required on the one I got so I can't even picture what you are referring to. Sorry.

I was in the same boat as you wondering how in the world you would get to that top bolt. It wasn't as bad as it looked though once you started feeling your way up over the back of the starter. (From the front of the car back.) Or from your last post, did you already get the old one removed?

Peter R.

Yeah, I fiddled around the p-car way with elbow joints, but this got me absolutely nowhere. Finally I gave up on that. I subsequently found an extension piece for the hex socket, that, together with the hex socket and inserted into the nut, was flush with the back end of the starter, and left just enough room to insert the ratchet from the LEFT, after I undid some of the brackets and pushed the cables out of the way. That released the nut no prob.

On the sleeve bearing issue, the front of the shaft coming out of the motor is a smaller diameter than the rest of the shaft. This taper part fits in a hole somewhere in the dark hole of the flywheel. There''s a brass cylinder in that hole, that acts as a bearing for the front of the starter motor shaft. A small scrap of paper that came with the (remanufactured) Bosch starter states specifically the sleeve bearing needs to be replaced, because a worn or absent bearing can damage the shaft. A new bearing came with the starter.

There's special 'internal sleeve bearing pullers', your local tool store should have them, or maybe you can loan one from your friendly indie mechanic. The land rover bloke I use had some small sizes he has no use for, I can go pick them up after work.

And while I've got you on the horn, I too have a pair of RS splitters lying around to get installed, are the old ones a pain to remove ?


Peter R.