Problems removing passenger seat
#16
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Originally Posted by phelix
The problem with heating the bolt is that will expand; you really want the captive nut to expand, not the bolt. And be careful as there's grease on the seat rails; enough heat and it will ignite!
I have heated bolts with torches that did not compromise the body threads and I believe that the heat from that firestarter will be low enough to be easily controlled and far from the heat needed to ignite lubricating grease.
Just my .02 though ( :
#17
Drifting
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What a great forum! Thank you for your advice. I looks like taking the seats out is more difficult than putting them back. This is the good news.
I will start with the liquid wrench and than use the chisel. If this does not work i will go withthe dremel job. The heating sounds promising but I will try the other options first.
Thanks again
Erik
I will start with the liquid wrench and than use the chisel. If this does not work i will go withthe dremel job. The heating sounds promising but I will try the other options first.
Thanks again
Erik
#18
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Originally Posted by Jukelemon
Yes, the bolt expands and that is exactly what you want to happen. It is not going to expand to the point where the threads are compromised.
#20
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I ran into this Sunday while installing my Rennsport chip. I drilled a hole in the top of the hex bolt and used a screw extractor. I couldn't get the drill stright in, but no matter, it worked fine. It took about 3-5 min. per bolt. Piece of cake. I replaced the bolts as others have said.
#21
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Heat is particularly helpful for removing fasteners from different types of material where one can expand material away from the fastener. Also, heat is good for breaking down Loctite or rust. While I have found seat bolts to have Loctite used, they do stay rust free and are screwed into steel.
I dont feel the risks of adding heat outway the potential benefit. Like mentioned before, there is grease, leather, carpet and wiring in the area. If you must use heat, use a high wattage soldering iron tol hold against the area.
I dont feel the risks of adding heat outway the potential benefit. Like mentioned before, there is grease, leather, carpet and wiring in the area. If you must use heat, use a high wattage soldering iron tol hold against the area.
#22
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Bob,
I like the idea of the screw extractor. I have never used one before. Which size did you use? What brand can you recommend and where did you buy it? How deep did you drill the hole?
Thanks,
Erik
I like the idea of the screw extractor. I have never used one before. Which size did you use? What brand can you recommend and where did you buy it? How deep did you drill the hole?
Thanks,
Erik
#23
Three Wheelin'
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As "md11plt" stated.. Just removing the head of the stripped bolt with a dremel would take about 5 minutes.. then just lift the seat off and use a vise-grip on the shaft. It would be easier then cutting the slot in the head.. you could try the slot first and then if it failed, just continue with the cut and remove the head.. The oil cant hurt as well..
Coleman.
Coleman.
#24
Drifting
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The seat is out! I used the Dremel for the rounded screw and the 2 in the front that where initially stuck got PB Blaster, some hits with a cold chisel and then they moved very easily.
Thanks again for all your help.
Erik
Thanks again for all your help.
Erik