remove the rev limiter
#31
THK YOU STEVE were is this info coming from? is this from people racing there stock engines after they raised the RV and then throw a rod? there is a person saling performance chips on ebay and claim that the RV is raised by 400? rpms. seen some people that are happy and some that said the chip didnt work for them. but non the less i feel if your going to chip your car it needs to be dyno while it being chiped
#33
Originally Posted by brucec59
First you ask a rather insipid question, then you make insulting generalizations about people on this forum. Is it just me, or do you have a big L on your forhead?
#34
Originally Posted by S4-on-your-back-door
is it just me or are half the people on this board really dont know anything about the car they drive and they try to hide it by just being sarcastic or saying it cant be done take it to a speicalist.
My car number is my IQ!!!! Sometimes it's 33!!! And then I get smarter!! Or dumber? Gaaaah, I'm confused! I think!!!!???
#37
LOL at lease you hav a pony . bruce its just u, as u can see now im receiving usable info from informative people or at lease people being serious and i dont have a big L (wat ever that means) i just need real answers to my questions not a bunch of jokes and smart remarks. now that i have received good answers from the gurus of the 993 world LET THE JOKES BEGIN. I WOULD LIKE TO THK DELTA, STEVE, COLORADO MARK, CHRIS AND ALL THE OTHERS THAT BROUGHT KNOWLEGE AND THEIR EXPERIANCE AND TOOK THE TIME TO SHARE IT WITH ME. thks guys
#39
S4 I totally agree, and it's always the same dorks with more dollars than cents.
In all seriousness, I would suggest taking your car to a dyno, pay for an hour or a run or two and see where your peak HP is. If while your doing this you discover the HP pulling up to the factory redline...stop. If it falls off short of the factory redline, you've just discovered your new engine saving shift point, why waste your motor. I've done this for every street car I've built, then I put a shift light in at that peak rpm figure.
What you're looking for is a chassis dyno, one that you drive your car onto. It will also give you rear wheel HP, not flywheel HP like the factory specs...so don't be disapointed at the numbers. Also make sure you have a good tune and your engine is healthy so you get good numbers.
In all seriousness, I would suggest taking your car to a dyno, pay for an hour or a run or two and see where your peak HP is. If while your doing this you discover the HP pulling up to the factory redline...stop. If it falls off short of the factory redline, you've just discovered your new engine saving shift point, why waste your motor. I've done this for every street car I've built, then I put a shift light in at that peak rpm figure.
What you're looking for is a chassis dyno, one that you drive your car onto. It will also give you rear wheel HP, not flywheel HP like the factory specs...so don't be disapointed at the numbers. Also make sure you have a good tune and your engine is healthy so you get good numbers.
#40
flyingtexan thats just it it pulls hard all the way to redline in all gears thats y i asked the question but it seens that 7k maybe the safe limit but i wanted to know if this had been done before and were did they stop.
#42
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From: yorba linda, ca
Let me ask you what your proposed budget is? Lets work backwards from there. You want to spin 8k?
Notice that this thread is very much like the one you started about rear suspension adjustments, with the same type of replies after many tried to explain many times sincerely? From your replies, its obvious that you keep asking until you get an answer you want to hear. Correct me if I am wrong.
I dont think many here take kindly to your tone but it quite possibly might be a language barrier. If we can establish that, then I know at least I could understand easier.
Notice that this thread is very much like the one you started about rear suspension adjustments, with the same type of replies after many tried to explain many times sincerely? From your replies, its obvious that you keep asking until you get an answer you want to hear. Correct me if I am wrong.
I dont think many here take kindly to your tone but it quite possibly might be a language barrier. If we can establish that, then I know at least I could understand easier.
#43
Originally Posted by S4-on-your-back-door
I guess im use to the 928 board where people work on thier own cars and like to share info and insight and dont mine speculating and reasoning on subjects. That must be why we have more forced induction kits out thier at resonable prices.
Over the last 5+ years here people with actual experience have shown that the 993 rear alignment is tricky and sensitive, the engine doesn't leave a lot of easy hp on the table and the 3.6L is expensive when you break it.
No worries if you prefer to eyeball align and trust the butt-dyno, it's your car.
#45
chris the tone you are hearing is coming from the replyies. if you reread my last post youll see the same format, sarcastic responce with know usable how to info untill late in the post. if you go back to reply no. 11 on this post youll see my answer to your question about last post....(plse notice that the camber adjustment went ok). here it is...
YOU GUY ARE HILARIOUS, why is it so hard to get strait answers for some of you guy, or at lease some latitude and reasoning. Dont take it the wrong way, I like to joke too. but not when im seeking info. I notice one of the guys here is the same joker that said one should not or can not ( cant remember which he just likes to be sarcastic ) adjust one's rear camber and to spin the rear of your car (his) into a curve to make the adjustment. By the way I've made the adjustments and it worked out fine. It almost makes paying for membership a waist of my money. I received more help when i was just a user LOL. I guess im use to the 928 board where people work on thier own cars and like to share info and insight and dont mine speculating and reasoning on subjects. That must be why we have more forced induction kits out thier at resonable prices.
I guess being a 982er we tend to work on owner own cars because the stealer tends to charge way to much and we tend to pay them to learn on ower cars. coming from the 928 board everyone tries to answer the questions with helpful information to help you fix a problem design a prototype. it usauly doent take 30 replies before someone pulls a dyno sheet or photo from the workshop manual.
its not my intent to insult people but that does seem how some are coming across not all just some
YOU GUY ARE HILARIOUS, why is it so hard to get strait answers for some of you guy, or at lease some latitude and reasoning. Dont take it the wrong way, I like to joke too. but not when im seeking info. I notice one of the guys here is the same joker that said one should not or can not ( cant remember which he just likes to be sarcastic ) adjust one's rear camber and to spin the rear of your car (his) into a curve to make the adjustment. By the way I've made the adjustments and it worked out fine. It almost makes paying for membership a waist of my money. I received more help when i was just a user LOL. I guess im use to the 928 board where people work on thier own cars and like to share info and insight and dont mine speculating and reasoning on subjects. That must be why we have more forced induction kits out thier at resonable prices.
I guess being a 982er we tend to work on owner own cars because the stealer tends to charge way to much and we tend to pay them to learn on ower cars. coming from the 928 board everyone tries to answer the questions with helpful information to help you fix a problem design a prototype. it usauly doent take 30 replies before someone pulls a dyno sheet or photo from the workshop manual.
its not my intent to insult people but that does seem how some are coming across not all just some