SJB993

Lots of US Rennlisters have made mention of 3M Adhesive Remover and its use in cleaning things like the suspension (which is what I want to use it for).

I've been trying to track down this product in the UK, and the stuff I've laid my hands on is called 3M Scotch Weld Cleaner Spray. The can claims it is good for removing grease, oil, dirt, adhesives and other hard to remove substances.

It is citrus based - does it sound like the stuff you guys use?

Thanks.

Arena993

No in short. The 3M adhesive remover is a chemical. When I order it from my 3M distributor I just use the number on the can 08984. I would assume this is a universal number. Not for sure though. What exactly are you trying to remove?

Mike

amfp

No, you don't want ot use the adhesive cleaner, it is too aggressive. We use citrus degreaser, like Wurth; or P21 Car wash which also has some citrus degreaser, but is milder than a non diluted Wurth degreaser.

I think the correct 3M product is this one: http://products3.3m.com/catalog/ca/e...er/output_html

SJB993

Mike,

What I want to clean is the aluminium castings in the suspension. I've had a go at this before, and whilst I get all the surface cr*p off, they still look what I can best describe as "tarnished". That is, they are not aluminium (silver) coloured, there's a yellowish tinge to them. I'm wondering if it's cosmoline. Lots of guys have said they used 3M Adhesive Remover to clean off cosmoline, hence my interest in trying to get hold of some of the same stuff they used.

Mo,

I had a look at the product on your link, and that sounds exactly like what I've got. The stuff I have has product code 50098, but it says on the can that it was manufactured in the European Union, so I guess product codes may be different to those in The States.

Thanks for your inputs.

Slow Guy

For those of us in the US I've always been able to find the 3M product above at the bigger NAPA stores, usually in the area of bodywork products.

This stuff works great but DON'T use it in a closed area, it is seriously nasty braincell killing stuff, at least to me.

g_murray

For removing cosmoline use a 'foamy' type of degreaser that's definitely citrus-based. Also use a wire-brush (medium soft to hard) for those baked-in areas and a Brillo pad for 'general' removal.

WEAR RUBBER GLOVES.

Let the degreaser do its job. Don't spray on and immediately wipe off. You'll be wasting your time and money. I personally found that I used TWO cans of Wurth citrus degreaser PER wheelwell when I was doing my wheelwell & suspension arms.

You will get filthy doing this job so do go into this job knowing that the clothes that you'll be wearing should be considered 'discardable'.

Wear eyeglasses / protective eyewear too. You do NOT want citrus degreaser splashes or bits of cosmoline/road tar going into your eyes.

Take several 'breaks' during each degreasing. It IS tiresome, pedantic work and you don't want to get discouraged on wheel 1 ...when you've 3 more to go!

(Ask me how I know!)

"Finish off" each wheelwell/suspension area with copious amounts of rinse-water -- from a hose.

The 'results' will amaze you.

Gerry

cobalt

I agree for cosmoline removal Wurth Citris degreaser straight out of the can and allow it to sit for a while will give good results without being to aggressive like the 3M adhesive remover. Cosmoline is a coating and should not leave any discoloration. It will scrape off with a plastic tool if needed.

If the aluminum does not clean up using the Wurth, the grease or whatever it is has most likely penetrated the porous surface of the aluminum. I would not use anything so harsh on aluminum once you break down the outer skin of the casting it is susceptible to corrosion from salts and other atmospheric conditions which will now require more frequent cleanings.

Pete

This doesn't sound like cosmoline to me but I must admit I haven't seen cosmoline for almost 40 years, since my Fiat 124 Ok you guys, go ahead and laugh!). If you've already got the surface crud off, I would think that would have removed most if not all of the cosmoline too. What you're describing sounds like plain old aluminum "rust" i.e. oxidation. Yes, aluminum doesn't stay nice and shiny unless it's clear-coated or anodized and I doubt that Porsche does this with suspension parts. I also assume the parts you're describing have a sand-cast finish and if so about the only thing that will remove that oxidation and make them bright and shiny would be something like naval jelly, a pretty strong acid. If they have a polished finish then something like Simichrome or Mother's Aluminum polish or a buffer wheel with polishing compound (white rouge or brown, I believe also called tripoi, works good).

Personally, unless you're going for a show car, I wouldn't worry about a yellow tinge if it is otherwise nice and clean.

Pete

cobalt

Actually the engine cases and most of the suspension components on the 993 are die cast and have a skin coat on them that is rather smooth. This is part of the manufacturing process. If you remove or damage that coating the aluminum will loose the slight protection from the elements it already has.

g_murray

Agreed.
This is why, after I removed the icky cosmoline and road-tar, grunge, etc. from the wheelwell, suspension parts, etc. that I, literally, smothered the whole lot with '303 Protectant' and let it dry. Then I did it again, just to be sure, to be sure.

Pete

What do you guys cobalt and g-murray mean by a "skin coat"? Do you mean the surface is polished or do you mean another material is applied to the cast surface or do you mean that this is simply the resultt of the die-casting process? Unless it is a separate coating, I think it will oxidize like all aluminum and have a somewhat dull finish.

Pete

cobalt

Not so easy to explain.

In the manufacturing of castings in this case die castings there is a finish or outer surface where the molten metal hits the chilled surface of the mold or die and makes a very clean somewhat porous free surface. It is only a few thousandths thick and acts as a protective finish if not disturbed. Underneath this skin coat is your standard aluminum alloy which is more porous than the outer layer.

If you dip a casting that has not been disturbed in Sulfuric acid it will take a few minutes for the acid to start attacking the casting. If you grit blast or remove this skin coat and dip the same casting in the acid it will start reacting immediately.

I hope this makes sense.

Pete

Makes perfect sense to me cobalt, thanks. I thought that was what you were referring to. Nearly all of my aluminum experience is with motorcycle parts, having polished all of the covers and lower fork legs on my '76 FXE and Harley was not using die-casting back then if they even are now. Rather they, like most of their contemporaries, clear-coated the cast parts from the factory. The clear-coating held up fine for a few years but gradually gets chipped and worn away and yellows so I removed what was left when the bike was about 15 years old and I was doing a top end job, and polished all the engine covers using my bench grinder and forks using my agnle grinder.

Pete.

faster

Steve, i second that, the adhesive remover is far to aggressive. if you want to spot clean some things or remove tar from your car, pick up a gallon of enamel reducer (NOT LACQUER THINNER) at the paint store, the reducer is more part and paint user friendly, but it will strip off the wax, but will not hurt the paint unless you leave the rag laying on it. have you seen GUNK engine cleaner at your local automotive parts stores, they have one with aluminum brightner too. for bigger jobs i make my own at the shop thats similar using a strong automotive cleaner like citrus, blue max,simple green etc. and mix a converter like kerosene which keeps the cleaner from drying and allows it to soak in and aids cleaning and use a nylon detail brush for doing like the A-arms, use safety glasses and put it in a pump sprayer or spray bottle and get after it. then hose or power wash it off. it will strip wax too so make sure you dont leave it on the paint. hope this helps. my two pennies.

SJB993

Thanks for all the help and advice guys.

The problem I have on this side of the pond is not having access to the products that you guys use. I have to make do with trying to get something that sounds similar. This morning I tried some of the 3M stuff that I thought might be what you guys use, but it had little affect.

I'm pretty sure that the parts are as clean as they can be, and that it's years of exposure to the British climate (and salted roads) that has caused surface corrosion on the die-castings.

Maybe the photos of gleaming suspension parts I've seen on this forum are on low mileage cars that have spent most or all of their lives in parts of the U.S. that have a nice warm and dry climate all year round? ;o)

Thanks again.