drop link shock mount adjustment?
02-04-2007, 07:11 PM
#16
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I checked that the clearance under the control arm was adequate in all three of the adjustment holes. I just took a look at it on the ground and it also looks like any hole will will usable without any problem. When on the ground the portion of the bar with the holes is just about parallel to the ground. Like you said it may be different depending on how low "low" is! I will probably plan another DIY the DIY day to make the changes! I think (hope) it will be safe to drive this way for now.
02-04-2007, 08:06 PM
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OK, I just checked my ride height:
Front 124mm
Rear: 108mm
I haven't had time to check on the ride height specs. Where am I?
Sorry, but I did not take any pics had very limited time this weekend. I will try to take some this week and post.
Front 124mm
Rear: 108mm
I haven't had time to check on the ride height specs. Where am I?
Sorry, but I did not take any pics had very limited time this weekend. I will try to take some this week and post.
02-14-2007, 11:08 PM
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project update w/some pics
Well, I always have to do the job the right way!! Move the rear droplink bracket all the way down as recommended by the gurus here! 
I noticed that If the droplink is mounted on the inside of the bracket (nut outside) the bracket needs to be all the way down for clearance. That is the way I mounted them and the way the standard drop links are mounted. However, after some research I have seen these links also mounted outside the bracket with the nut on the inside. I do not know if this would be any different functionally, but it does allow more reach and the drop link bracket can be about 10mm higher. I originally had it this way but changed it. This is a borrowed picture. This is not the same shock, but demonstrates the alternate mounting method I found. (I think this is an H&R shock?)
As luck would have all repair project lead to other repairs on the way. While manipulating the rear toe control arm the 12 year old rubber ball joint disintegrates and all the grease leaks out.
These looked pretty cracked and brittle before I started but the grease was on the inside when I started! 
No expert, but probably not a good thing for the track this weekend. As far as I could tell there is no way to repair this easily so two new control arms go in.
(Suncoast Porsche to the rescue on my doorstep in a flash!)
Here's the final setup. I did get a set of extra lock nuts from Bilstein but I was not able to put a second nut below the shock droplink bracket from below. Not sure, but from what I can tell this would require removing the shock. I was not up to that project and out of time so that will have to wait. Hopefully the bracket won't get loose. I paid extra attention to making it as tight as possible.
I marked the toe eccentric bolt setting closely before removal but doubt that the alignment was not changed at least some with the new arms. Will need to get it rechecked.
Next job are thos darn rusty rotors and a brake caliber refinish!
Thanks for all the great help from the forum members.
I noticed that If the droplink is mounted on the inside of the bracket (nut outside) the bracket needs to be all the way down for clearance. That is the way I mounted them and the way the standard drop links are mounted. However, after some research I have seen these links also mounted outside the bracket with the nut on the inside. I do not know if this would be any different functionally, but it does allow more reach and the drop link bracket can be about 10mm higher. I originally had it this way but changed it. This is a borrowed picture. This is not the same shock, but demonstrates the alternate mounting method I found. (I think this is an H&R shock?)
As luck would have all repair project lead to other repairs on the way. While manipulating the rear toe control arm the 12 year old rubber ball joint disintegrates and all the grease leaks out.
These looked pretty cracked and brittle before I started but the grease was on the inside when I started! No expert, but probably not a good thing for the track this weekend. As far as I could tell there is no way to repair this easily so two new control arms go in.
(Suncoast Porsche to the rescue on my doorstep in a flash!)
Here's the final setup. I did get a set of extra lock nuts from Bilstein but I was not able to put a second nut below the shock droplink bracket from below. Not sure, but from what I can tell this would require removing the shock. I was not up to that project and out of time so that will have to wait. Hopefully the bracket won't get loose. I paid extra attention to making it as tight as possible.
I marked the toe eccentric bolt setting closely before removal but doubt that the alignment was not changed at least some with the new arms. Will need to get it rechecked.
Next job are thos darn rusty rotors and a brake caliber refinish!
Thanks for all the great help from the forum members.
02-15-2007, 02:34 PM
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TheOtherEric said -"If you're down near RS height, then your sway bars go under your lower control arms, and you use the longer RS drop links, with the drop link mounts down all the way at the bottom."
This is interesting, I have a RoW MO30 suspension on my car and its set as low as it'll go, should my rear sway bar (RoW TT 21mm) go under the toe link or over the toe link?
What say the experts?
This is interesting, I have a RoW MO30 suspension on my car and its set as low as it'll go, should my rear sway bar (RoW TT 21mm) go under the toe link or over the toe link?
What say the experts?
