Very good spot ! The problem started a little while after fitting a freshly oiled K&N . I've taken it back off untill I get his sorted.

Are the car sensos accessible without taking the engine apart ?

If I drive the car at high speed for a while the problem seems to go away. It started again in stop and go traffic. It was pissing down with rain when it reoccurred yesterday. Running rough and billowing smoke. Went away when I got on the motorway, but fuel consumption was scary.

Peter R.

 

And the info is greatly appreciated !

Peter R.

 

Peter, I have ditched the K & N filter all together. An even slightly over oiled filter causes the oil to get sucked into the intake and it can sit on the MAF creating an oily film on the "hot wire" sensor which reduces it's effectivness and causes these problems.

The MAF sensor is easy to get at, if you take off the air box (back and front) you will see a wire coming out of the next part of the intake, thats your MAF sensor. You should really unplug the wire and remove the section of the intake with the sensor inside the get good access, then clean it with PCB cleaner, being careful not to leave a residue. Replace the whole assembly and air box, preferably with a OEM paper filter (believe me these are good enough for our engines and you'll avoid these problems). Now take the car for a good drive, and remember the ECU can take a little time to adjust to changes.

Let me know how you get on.

 

Nope, same misery with full, half, almost empty rank. One to remember though. I can imagine a mechanic not even looking at that end !

Peter R.

 

The MAF is just a cylindrical err...cylinder that's held in the pipe with two big hose clamps. Sould be easy enough to take out, although I hadn't thought it was cleanable. I'll have a go at it tonight !

Peter R.

 

So I took out the MAF yesterday evenig, cleaned it with PCB cleaner (very carefully), and put it back.

I've got the impression it starts smoking even faster than before, so I guess I'm on the right track. I'm trying to locate a 'loaner' MAF in the neighborhood to make absolutely sure. Decided to pass on taking her out for a spin.

What's the sensor that is located abbout 2" to the left of the MAF ?

Good new is I've learnt a lot about taking apart my M05, and it's workings lately. So it's not all bad news !

Peter R.

Edit : I tried the starting-on-one-dizzy lark, and it starts just fine, so the belt is still in one piece. I also disconnected the cold running solenoid, and the engine stalls immediately, so that's ok as well.
I'll check the caps and rotors tonight. But since it overfuels like there's no tomorrow, I have the impression it MUST be the MAF gizmo

 

Gizzmo to the left ( 2 pin plug ? ) is the air temperature sensor .
Have you considered getting an interface for Dougs excellent software ?
You could then look at the values the the DME is "seeing" and identify the problem much more quickly ! Probably less expensive than all the parts you could change !!

Geoff

 

What is doug's software ? If it's ODB stuff I may have an interface.

Peter R.

 

Peter,
Just do a search for "OBD software" on this forum. There is moutains of it !
Bottom line is that a simple serial interface is needed together with the top rate Doug Boyce software .
Armed with that combo , actual values can be read which will help dramatically with fault finding.

Good luck

Geoff

 

Unfortunately, my gizmo is OBDII only, and refuses to communicate with my p-car.

I'm getting mighty depressed with all this smoking lark.

Next question : when I start her up stone cold, and I pull the plug on that temp sensor about 2" to the left of the maf, absolutely nothing happens to the running of the engine. Is this normal ? OTOH, if I pull the plug on the ISV, it stutters a bit and dies. This DOES seem normal.

Peter R.

 

Peter,
Air temp compensation is very small . The head temp is a major element in fuelling level.
The head sensor is screwed into the front of number 3 head. The sensor connector is the white plug in the row on the LH side of the motor . If you pull the plug you will see it has two pins in a three pin housing.
A multimeter across the two pins will give an idea as to what temperature the sensor is seeing at the head.
Without a software method of looking at these parameters it all gets to be a PIA.
I have a Hammer but put together a simple interface to try the FREE software .
It is excellent.
The system is OBDI so your OBDII scanner is useless.

Good luck

Geoff

Good luck with this

 

Some news.

I took off one of the rotor caps just now, and they're a disaster area. The conductors are so pitted they look like the moon (same color too !)

I don't know if this is 'the' problem, but it certainly is 'a' problem. I'm getting new ones tomorrow (and rotors) and will update when fitted.

I'd post a pic, but I don't want to frighten you lot.

Peter R.

 

Hi peter,
How long were those caps on? I recently got a 95, but don't know when the caps and rotors were changed, if ever - car runs pretty well, tho..

 

Mine has had some hesitation and a minor misfire at idle so I orderd up a set of caps and rotors last week. Should get here Monday. I've not pulled mine but I suspect they are pretty bad considering the horrible condition of the air filter.. whith the PPI mised! OK.. I'll not go on that tirade again.

Good luck and I hope it fixes everything up. I say post the pics though.

 

I don't know, but from the look of it I'd say since new. 100.000 miles that would be.

No wonder the old girl is billowing smoke and running 12 miles to the gallon. Poor thing.

Peter R.