Dudley

First, time to replace the lower valve cover gaskets. Driver side was weeping but passenger side still dry. A lot of cleaning ahead of me. I will also replace my plug wires but re-use my spark plug boots. A couple of the boots have been gouged by an aggressive past mechanic. Does anyone have a couple of used boots left over from their own plug wire replacement? TIA.

One trick to removing the valve cover. I used a pair of pliers and pulled firmly from a stiffening rib. The cover popped right off with little force and no damage.

pedsurg

Dudley: Very nice pics. Keep 'em coming.

Posted my own travails re tranny fluid change yesterday.
Jack

Jeff96-993

Dave,

I have extra boots left over from my plug wire change this past summer. I bought the wire&boot set, but after starting the change I realized I should've went the route you did, buying just the wires only.

So I have them sitting in the garage... how many do you need, and which ones (top or bottom)?

Send me a PM with your address and I'll send them out.

Dudley

Thanks Jeff. PM on the Way

Dudley

So now I have both valve cover gaskets replaced. Now on to the spark plug wires.

Slow Guy

Cover cleaned up nicely.

One thing nice about the OE/stock wires, they're marked with the bank/plug info along each wire but for $420+ you would expect them to install themselves.

Dudley

How true. I ordered aftermarket red wires and black heat shink numbers. I had a few bad plug sockets but Jeff was kind enough to help me with those. I am beginning to think the $420 is not such a bad deal.

Dudley

Digging a bit deeper. Tomorrow I start removing the plug wires.
A lot of engine detailing to come.

Dudley

Making progress. Made up the new wires I bought from Mark. Thanks Jeff, for coming through with a couple replacement plugs. Thanks to Jason for the tip on alcohol as a lubricant to assemble the wires. I also replaced the upper valve covers while I was there.


I got everything back in as well, HVAC plumbing, air filter, engine tins, and mufflers. I will wait until tomorrow to start the car - just to check everything twice. I still have a lot of cleaning to do but it will be a long winter and the cosmoline is not going anywhere.

Almost forgot, I also removed and replaced the AC compressor. P-Car doesn't mention removing the air compressor in it's DIY. Of course, they probably didn't drop anything down there. Blaine came to my rescue with a magnet and grabber thingy or I would have had to take out the alternator as well. Sheesh! I hate making work.

Reuben

Great photos and write-up, thank you. Any tricks you can share for loosening the inaccessible bolts behind the heat-exchange pipe? I can barely get an allen-key in there, even with the pipe removed. Much appreciated, and keep up the good work!

subdriver

Any pics of upper gasket replacement?

Dudley

I did not have to remove much besides the mufflers and heat exchanger hose to get to the lower valve covers. In the picture below, I borrowed an idea from another post. I almost resorted to cutting the allen wrench but the bolt finally gave way. I was lucky enough to not strip any bolts.

The bottom valve covers are tough but I think the upper covers are tougher. The two bolts in the engine tin behind the suspension on the left side are brutal. The allen bolt above plug six on the upper right side is just as tough.
Best of luck. Someone gave this task a difficult rating of 7 out of 10. This same person probably rates casting your own pistons as a 9 out of 10.

Paddy

Thanks for the update! I'm going to tackle this project sometime this winter.

I need a bigger garage

BTW I like how you labeled the plug wires

Dudley

The upper valve covers are pretty straight forward once you have the engine tins off. The left side is tough but doable. Two bolts are behind the suspension and seem inaccessable. I and left-handed with stubby fingers - if I can get at them then you can. Once you remove the five bolts and the muffler hanger, pull the front end of the engine tin down and towards the front of the car. The valve cover bolts can be removed from below but I already had the pipe from the heat exchanger to the fan removed so I was able to access the upper bolts from the engine compartment.
This picture shows the driver's side tin in place. The suspension makes it a bit tougher.


Here is the driver's side with the tin removed:



The tin comes off more easily on the right side. The valve cover bolts can be removed from below but the one bolt over the #6 sparkplug is tough. You can only make an eighth of a turn with an allen wrench.
Here is a picture with the right side tin removed.

Dudley

Thanks! If I had to do this again, I would buy the OEM wire set. This job is tough enough without fabricating the wiring harness. When I look back, I only saved $200. YMMV