CEL--the dreaded SAI code :(
#33
David, I think this is a great idea. Probably the best place to tap into would be the short pipes before the cat - #7 & #8 below (#1 & #2 if Bishoff). They appear to be easy to remove & handle and could be replaced in the future, if necessary.
#34
Eric, thanks for the diagram thats what I was looking for so that I could explain to somebody else.............thats what I was thinking.....it means that essentially I am still doing as intended but one a rebuild has taken place at some time in the future I can simply remove and replace with new ones.....now the question is what to weld in there???? If I am running a heat resistant line from the air pump what size should it be 1/4 inch internal diameter is what I was thinking and then some sort of metal tube welded into this short pipe???? Comments and help anybody
#35
Eric, this is why I still have your wrench, so that if I need to start taking the one way valve out again I can do it......the bit I am not looking forward to is removing that dam air intake housing again....what a PITA....
#37
Originally Posted by dhicks
Eric, thanks for the diagram thats what I was looking for so that I could explain to somebody else.............thats what I was thinking.....it means that essentially I am still doing as intended but one a rebuild has taken place at some time in the future I can simply remove and replace with new ones.....now the question is what to weld in there???? If I am running a heat resistant line from the air pump what size should it be 1/4 inch internal diameter is what I was thinking and then some sort of metal tube welded into this short pipe???? Comments and help anybody
I know this is kind of vague, but once you can determine how the hoses would run you should be able to determine where to weld on the connector.
Now, the biggest concern I have with running a rubber based hose is that it will be connected directly to the exhaust system. Those very hot exhaust gases will flow up into the hose to a certain extent. Plus, the hose will be in direct contact with the welded connector. While the SAI check valve will prevent backflow, I'd want to make sure the hose could withstand the exhaust temps. Standard fuel hose can take heat, but not sure about exhaust temperatures. Thus, a specialized hose may be required.
#38
Originally Posted by HeelToe
I have a 97 that had the same issue about a month ago. I was able to clear out one side with carb cleaner and an air hose. Unfortunately, the other side wouldn't budge.
Rather than performing a whole top end rebuild on an otherwise perfectly good engine, I ran a (heat resistant) hose from the check valve to 2 bungs that I welded into the exhaust just before each catalyst and the SAI CEL is gone FOREVER.
Rather than performing a whole top end rebuild on an otherwise perfectly good engine, I ran a (heat resistant) hose from the check valve to 2 bungs that I welded into the exhaust just before each catalyst and the SAI CEL is gone FOREVER.
#39
I would think that copper tubing or some sort of stainless steel tubing bent correctly would be the best OEM looking solution...now, finding out the measurements and actually bending the tubing properly is a whole different ball of wax.