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Intermittent starting / battery load test ...

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Old 11-26-2006, 10:52 PM
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the_buch
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Question Intermittent starting / battery load test ...

I'm trying to track down an intermittent starting problem (sometimes, only when cold, there is a delay of 1 - 3 seconds when the key is turned to the start position before anything happens ... sometimes, I have to turn the key back and forth several times to get it going ... it starts normally half the time). I have swapped out my DME and checked all the connections. My shop has stated the battery is OK. Next on the list:
1. Clutch microswitch (note, cruise control is also a bit intermittent)
2. Ignition switch
3. Solenoid, starter, etc.

I don't know how to do a battery load test, but I hooked up my analog voltmeter to the battery and measured about 13 volts straight up and just over 10 volts during an actual startup of the car.

Ideas and advice sought and greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Old 11-27-2006, 12:35 AM
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chris walrod
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Test your CC -- with the CC on and set -- cruising along -- push the clutch in and see if the revs drop -- Might be as simple as a microswitch adjustment..
Old 11-27-2006, 01:22 AM
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Olav A.
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I found that when my CC didn't work I would use the heel of my foot to pull my clutch pedal toward me and then the CC would work. I haven't adjusted the switch yet though.
Old 11-27-2006, 01:37 AM
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Droops83
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I would look into the ignition switch as your possible culprit for the starting problem, as I have seen this on 993s before (having to turn key back and forth, hold it in start position, etc). Unfortunately it is not exactly a quick swap on these cars, have to take some of the dash apart and drill out the shear bolts, etc. Take it to someone who knows these cars and get a second opinion on whether it is the switch.

As for the battery, it doesn't sound like it is the culprit in this situation, but if it is 4-5 years or older it could be on its way out, as they don't make batteries like they used to. Most shops will have some sort of battery tester which uses a carbon pile to place a load on the battery. The battery needs to be fully charged to 12.6V for an accurate test. The standard test is to place a load on the battery of half of its rated cold cranking amps (CCA). The voltage will drop but should not go below 9.6V when the load is maintained for 15 seconds. Your quick test of observing battery voltage while cranking showed no drop below 10V which seems ok, but that's not as accurate of a test. Make sure your shop did a proper load test w/ the battery fully charged, but considering that a battery is a quick install and and easy money for them, they'd probably let you know if there was any doubt, so it's probably OK.

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Chris Andropoulos
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:48 PM
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the_buch
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Thanks for the advice guys ... Chris, I will definitely get the battery properly tested ... as to the clutch microswitch, since the car will generally start with the clutch out (which I generally would never do) I am sure it is maladjusted, but if anything this would not interrupt starting since it may always seem as if it's in to the system?? ... this is why I doubt this is the issue??



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