jaholmes

Does anyone have any audio of the sound a LWF makes in a 993. I keep hearing that it "sounds like rocks in a blender." Is this sound only when the clutch is not engage, or in neutral. Some people also say get a better exhaust to drown out the sound. The other drawback I hear is that the idle with "hunt" with the LWF, this might be in cold weather only. Do the gains outweigh the noise.

I have a '97 C4S with motorsound exhaust. I am planning a new clutch in the next few months since my shop has a 20% discount on labor rates. So I was thinking of doing the RS clutch and LWF. I do track the car occasionaly, nothing hard-core any more.

Some of my clutch symptions are that when I shift from 1st to 2nd at high rpm's it hangs for a second or two before it engages. I do have 46k miles on a C4S. I hear that the C4S is hard on clutches because of the AWD.

Thanks,

Jim

titleist1

I had the Lwf done on my 98 C4S, i would probably not do it again, noise is not that bad but i continually had troubles with stalling due to rev issues.

Monique

Hello Jim,

"I keep hearing that it "sounds like rocks in a blender."

Yep it does.... but with some specifics. Over 2000 rpm, noise is gone. Only exists if car is in neutral with clutch out. No noise if clutch pedal depressed.

"The other drawback I hear is that the idle with "hunt" with the LWF"

Not so with mine. Idle is set at 960 rpm.... more because of the smaller pulley for fan/alternator requiring higher revs at idle to power the electrics. Not very tolerant of a dirty ISV though. I clean mine 2-3 times a year.... 15 mins job

"So I was thinking of doing the RS clutch and LWF"

Go for it... most RLers who did this mod will tell you its the most cost effective and fun perf upgrade.

"I hear that the C4S is hard on clutches because of the AWD"

Prob not worse than the others but then I do not have first hand knowledge about the 4wd Ps. New RS clutches are the same part # as for the GT3. Built tough IMO

FWIW, my car arrived with these percs built in... I never drove a standard 993. My loss I guess...

mborkow

stalling issues *should* only be with a MY95. here is how it works:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywhee...heel_works.htm
pretty cool, huh? i have one, and like it a lot. the car does become a little trickier to drive because it responds so much faster in lower gears, but it is a blast.

Sumtoc

Have the LWF in my MY95 and also had one in my E36 M3. Both sound similar, more of a low rattle at idle with the car in neutral. Depress the clutch pedal and it goes away. Seems to be there more often when in neutral and the AC running.

But depending on your exhaust set up it may be pretty hard to hear unless you really try. I have RSRs and I can hear it but really don't notice it unless I try. And once ypu put it in gear and take off all it goes away.

The LWF really wakes up the car and improves throttle response, and IMO is worth the rattle and occasional stall.

SinVancouver

Is the car stalling without user input or just stalls on occasion due to user error because its harder to transition from stop with the lighter flywheel?

Father of 3

I don't mind the noise at all. I actually think it sounds kind of cool. The clutch is trickier to use though. I have none of the idle induced stalling issues that 95's are supposed to have (I have a 97 cab) but I do stall out more frequently than I ever did prior to switching. I would try one out if you have any doubts. The engine does rev more freely.

Ben in Plano, TX

Monique is spot on with the ISV cleaning comment. The revs drop very rapidly when pushing the clutch in coming to a stop with the LWF. The ISV needs to be moving very freely to adapt the the rapid change. If it is dirty - you will get stalling. If it is clean it handles the rev drop very nicely.

Cleaning takes 15 minutes (once you are used to it) and half a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner.

chris walrod

Also, the OBD2 cars do a better job (quicker acting) at catching the falling revs as they fall near idle speeds, switching the injectors back on to the idle program.

OBD1 cars are just a little slow to react to the falling revs and often require the driver to minimize the rate of RPM deceleration giving the ECU time to 'catch-it' before stall.

Sumtoc

It is easier to stall on take off with the LWF, but after you drive it a couple of times you will get used to it. Just takes a bit more throttle input to get it rolling, not a hard thing to learn at all.

My stalling occurs when approaching a stop and I depress the clutch. The LWF caused the engine to drop revs too fast for an OBD1 (MY95) system to catch and it just dies.

I now have a (very) clean ISV and also tried the other options posted here to get rid of the problem but no luck. It does not happen too often so it is not a big deal. Still would like to get it fixed but may have to live with it.

wayne325

User error. I have no problems with mine. I'd never go back. And yes
it does rather rattle a bit at idle.

If you reset the DME (disconnect battery) it may take a couple miles to
reset the idle settings - and during this time it will stall at almost
every stop. Then it's OK from then on.