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Electrical problem - engine computer relay/fuse box short and burnout

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Old 05-01-2022, 09:43 PM
  #16  
mike cap
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Originally Posted by BigSurBob
I had this issue today on my 96 4s, but noticed someone installed a made in China relay (I just purchased this car, was one of Rudy’s, a reseller bought it at auction in Amelia & I picked it up from them a month later, they claim to have changed a window switch once I pressed why they took 12 days to release the car to me). Installed the correct part but the damage was done. even though car is running fine I’m changing the box or at the least taking it apart today as there was


melted plastic on the box. Bummer… but at least the car was in my garage so out of pocket was light. Also this part has gone up to around $75 for same day local purchase in LA.
Replace with a solid state Focus 9 Technology relay instead.
Old 05-05-2022, 01:40 PM
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Matthew So
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The solid state one does not need replacement (at least longer time as compare to standard DME replay)? Any other advantage other than less maintenance? Thanks!
Edit: I checked the forum and now understand more about reliability issue with mechanical reply that we have on OEM 933 relay. I have check out the F9 solid state relay and wonder if the 'pump-prime' feature is really needed. Thanks!

Regards,
Matthew

Last edited by Matthew So; 05-05-2022 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 05-05-2022, 02:01 PM
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mike cap
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Fuel pump prime feature is not needed per previous threads here at RL. I don’t have that feature on mine.
Old 05-05-2022, 10:31 PM
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IainM
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Originally Posted by BigSurBob

.
There must be some corrosion or a dry joint to create the resistance necessary to generate that much heat. The usual failure mode is a cracked joint through stress of pulling and replugging the relay. My guess this is a cheap relay with a cold solder joint aggravated by the lead-free manufacturing now. You need trained operators to solder lead free properly.
BTW, solid state relays are not immune to these problems either.
Old 05-06-2022, 10:54 AM
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jay@EZimmoblock.com
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^^^ Agree. Resistance = heat. Probably internal to the relay, but definitely open up the box and inspect the mating terminal and wire.
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Old 05-06-2022, 12:19 PM
  #21  
BigSurBob
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Originally Posted by IainM
There must be some corrosion or a dry joint to create the resistance necessary to generate that much heat. The usual failure mode is a cracked joint through stress of pulling and replugging the relay. My guess this is a cheap relay with a cold solder joint aggravated by the lead-free manufacturing now. You need trained operators to solder lead free properly.
BTW, solid state relays are not immune to these problems either.
You're 100% rt, had corrosion. Replacing the box not necessary, outside of the cosmetic damage it seems fine. Nonetheless the corrosion was heavy but damage seems to be focused on the relay.
Old 05-06-2022, 12:28 PM
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Good news! What exactly was corroded?
BTW, that terminal is the one that powers the fuel pump. With the kind of resistance necessary to create that damage, did you experience any driveability issues?
Old 05-06-2022, 12:34 PM
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Default corrosion on electrical connectors

It looks like it was corrosion on electrical connectors. Not sure if caused by moisture or movement on the terminal like one suggested.
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Old 05-06-2022, 09:55 PM
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Wow, didn’t expect that. That is some kind of fluid intrusion and very uncommon, like someone spilt some soda or beer while swapping the relay. The fuse box is essentially double protected from the elements.
the heat will conduct up the spade terminals quite well so can understand the melted plastic on the relay.



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